|
Dez500
Oct 9, 2012, 11:06 AM
Post #1 of 14
(7181 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2012
Posts: 2
|
Hi Everyone,
I'm working on a project to produce a work flow for a mass customizable rock climbing shoe, I would like to hear what you think would make the perfect rock climbing shoes.
If you could format your responses in the following way I would be very grateful, the number of years you've been climbing, preferred style, response.
Example; 7. bouldering. your response.
Thanks for your help
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Oct 9, 2012, 11:10 AM
Post #2 of 14
(7179 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
Moves from general to gear heads by ww.
|
|
|
|
|
kennoyce
Oct 9, 2012, 3:21 PM
Post #3 of 14
(7123 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338
|
Dez500 wrote: Hi Everyone, I'm working on a project to produce a work flow for a mass customizable rock climbing shoe, I would like to hear what you think would make the perfect rock climbing shoes. If you could format your responses in the following way I would be very grateful, the number of years you've been climbing, preferred style, response. Example; 7. bouldering. your response. Thanks for your help
15, sport (currently), ones that will stick to anything, maybe they could have a button under one of your toes to release the stickiness so that you can get your feet back off the rock.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 10, 2012, 1:48 AM
Post #4 of 14
(7042 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
Dez500 wrote: Hi Everyone, I'm working on a project to produce a work flow for a mass customizable rock climbing shoe, I would like to hear what you think would make the perfect rock climbing shoes. If you could format your responses in the following way I would be very grateful, the number of years you've been climbing, preferred style, response. Example; 7. bouldering. your response. Thanks for your help
9, mostly sport and bouldering. I would like a downturned shoe that has a small heel cup (not so deep that it cuts into Achileus tendon), but stays on securely for heelhooks, despite not being super-deep.
|
|
|
|
|
dangerlaef
Oct 10, 2012, 2:34 AM
Post #5 of 14
(7034 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 9
|
28 Trad, Sport & Bouldering.
I still like high tops, mainly for protecting ankles from cracks,
& they do offer protection heel hooking steep sport & boulders.
I can't see why there can't be a high top sports shoe.
There must be a place for a little of he tranverse stiffness of old school trad shoes. It prevents toe crushing while jamming, as well as improving edging.
(This post was edited by dangerlaef on Oct 10, 2012, 2:36 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Oct 10, 2012, 4:06 AM
Post #6 of 14
(7013 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
dangerlaef wrote: 28 Trad, Sport & Bouldering. I still like high tops, mainly for protecting ankles from cracks, & they do offer protection heel hooking steep sport & boulders. I can't see why there can't be a high top sports shoe. There must be a place for a little of he tranverse stiffness of old school trad shoes. It prevents toe crushing while jamming, as well as improving edging.
39, Gear, followed by some sport and bouldering.
Ditto. High top. The TC Pro as a high top is pretty good, needs to be more flexible in the upper, fit better, and have a velcro closure.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Oct 10, 2012, 9:58 AM
Post #7 of 14
(7000 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
37, trad. Stiff laterally for edging but flexible lengthwise for smearing. High top is NOT important to me. Not a fan of Velcro.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Oct 10, 2012, 1:32 PM
Post #8 of 14
(6982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
7. Sport. The Five Ten Quantum.
|
|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
Oct 10, 2012, 5:01 PM
Post #9 of 14
(6959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
18, Sport, Trad and Ice. Something that edges like a asymmetrical, but smears and is as comfortable and a symmetrical shoe. Something like Murias + Mythos hybrid
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Oct 13, 2012, 5:26 PM
Post #10 of 14
(6798 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
OK, I've considered some more. Theres half a million rockclimbing shoes being made. 4 hightops...give or take. There's half a million guide approach shoes being made. The shoe dudes are trying to fit all these niches, women who want to look pretty in the gym, guys who want to freeclimb El Cap or climb like Tommy Caldwell LOL, yet there isn't not a perfect amalgam of these 2 major types of shoe done yet. I would think that you could add a little arch support, plus stiffen right at the point where an aider would be, and then try and otherwise optimism a climbing shoe for freeclimbing and you'd have a sure fire winner and mega seller. Let me try and flesh out what I'm thinking a bit. To be able to hike into an area and climb with the same shoe without significant loss of performance, would be optimum. That shoe isn't being made.
It's so simple and no one has done it. Just take a clunky approach shoe (5.10 Guide Tennie or LaSportiva Ganda- I own both), and force it to have sex with a pair of board lasted shoes (LaSportiva TC Pro, Red Chili Spirit, 5.10 Grandstone or even better the new Anasazi high top - the only one I don't own yet).
Once you've cleaned up the mess, the kids produced would be a runaway best seller if you priced it in there and didn't get crazy. You'd have an all day shoe that was comfortable and could also climb within a grade of your highest. You go look at approach shoes and see if you think they look anything like climbing shoes. They don't. Furthermore, almost all climbing shoes are real bad for hiking. I did 2 6 pitch free solo laps on the local crag and got some very painful and lasting Plantar fasciitis from just the short run down the trail back to the start of the route in my Red Chili Spirits. Maybe less than a mile walking in them? It sucked. I can get up that stuff with my approach shoes...but they are not good rock climbing shoes.
Meld the best features of the 2. Winner.
Gearwhore has spoken. You're welcome.
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Oct 13, 2012, 8:31 PM
Post #11 of 14
(6776 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
~15; trad/sport/gym; a shoe with a mini Skyhook built into the toe.
Actually, I would love to find shoes that have little to no "point" in the front and more room on the "corners" for my big and pinky toes.
|
|
|
|
|
robdotcalm
Oct 14, 2012, 12:20 AM
Post #12 of 14
(6756 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027
|
High top Mythos
rob.calm
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Oct 14, 2012, 1:24 AM
Post #13 of 14
(6749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
robdotcalm wrote: High top Mythos rob.calm
These are already produced by the same company which makes Mythos, they are called TC Pros.
|
|
|
|
|
robdotcalm
Oct 14, 2012, 3:52 AM
Post #14 of 14
(6735 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027
|
billcoe_ wrote: robdotcalm wrote: High top Mythos rob.calm These are already produced by the same company which makes Mythos, they are called TC Pros.
TCs and Mythos are quite different. For one thing Mythos fit my feet and TCs don't and are much stiffer and less sensitive than Mythos. In wide cracks, I either tape my ankles or wear ankle supports to protect the ankles from getting scratched while wearing Mythos. I'd prefer a leather high top on the shoe.
Rob.calm
|
|
|
|
|
|
