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DrPat
Oct 20, 2012, 4:52 AM
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I'm developing a range of wooden indoor holds and seeking some feedback. Please note i am not soliciting sales, but trying to get genuine feedback from interested climbers - even and especially feedback that is negative.
See attachments for two holds I have prototyped.
The sort of discussion i am interested in is;
- would you pay the same for a similar quality as synthetic hold?
- what is your perception of wood as a hold material?
- do you perceive it as a premium material or a budget material?
- do you have a home woody?
- what is your main criteria in choosing a hold?
price?
texture?
shape (versatility)?
other?
any other comments on purchasing wooden holds?
thanks for your interest.
(This post was edited by DrPat on Oct 22, 2012, 1:53 AM)
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Attachments:
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Large jug.jpeg
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Small jug.jpeg
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acorneau
Oct 20, 2012, 4:49 PM
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DrPat wrote: I'm developing a range of wooden indoor holds and seeking some feedback. Please note i am not soliciting sales, but trying to get genuine feedback from interested climbers - even and especially feedback that is negative The sort of discussion i am interested in is; - would you pay the same for a similar quality as synthetic hold? - what is your perception of wood as a hold material? - do you perceive it as a premium material or a budget material? - do you have a home woody? - what is your main criteria in choosing a hold? price? texture? shape (versatility)? other? any other comments on purchasing wooden holds? thanks for your interest.
1. Yes
2. Good: unvarnished holds can help absorb moisture from your hands. Bad: wood holds have a tendency to split, especially at the bolt hole/washer.
3. Neither, just different.
4. No.
5. (I'm a part-time setter so I don't buy them, I choose holds as I set.) Color first (our gym sets by color), shape second, texture third.
We have some older Metolius slopers which are ok, and some home-made plywood-based holds. The plywood holds can have some good shapes but they tend to split on a layer-by-later basis, eventually becoming unusable.
I remember seeing a video somewhere of a Japanese(?) guy making wooden handholds. Don't know if he's still around or if his holds did well.
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lena_chita
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Oct 22, 2012, 1:56 AM
Post #3 of 12
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DrPat wrote: I'm developing a range of wooden indoor holds and seeking some feedback. Please note i am not soliciting sales, but trying to get genuine feedback from interested climbers - even and especially feedback that is negative The sort of discussion i am interested in is; - would you pay the same for a similar quality as synthetic hold?
no
DrPat wrote: - what is your perception of wood as a hold material?
Don't like it. We have a set of wooden holds at the gym, they are very smoothly finished and slippery.
You could say that it is a good thing, because you have to grip them harder, and thus your grip strength improves over time. But I don't care, I just hate them.
My friend has wooden holds as well as various wooden features in his home gym (cracks of various sizes, rails, ans well as various shapes) that are not laquered, just plain wood, smoothed over. It's all homemade stuff.
It is very good in a sense that you can't buy the stuff he has anywhere, in any material. But otherwise, don't care for it much.
DrPat wrote: - do you perceive it as a premium material or a budget material?
budget material.
DrPat wrote: - do you have a home woody?
yes.
DrPat wrote: - what is your main criteria in choosing a hold? price? texture? shape (versatility)? other?
Shape and texture come first. Price is not really an issue, because I do not have a home gym, and do not have many holds, it is more of a campus board/hangboard setup. So I want the holds to be of the right shape/texture for the workout I am trying to do, and the price for buying just a couple of holds is not different enough to matter. I am not looking for a versatile hold though-- I am looking for precise/specific shape, e.i. not ' versatile" so much, but suited for the purpose I have in mind.
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DrPat
Oct 22, 2012, 2:03 AM
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Thanks for the reply Lena. Seems like your main objection is the smoothness and lack of grip. I can understand that.
I guess that's the reason I like my wooden holds as I find synthetic really abrade the skin during a long training session and the smoothness increases my contact strength.
Thanks also for your comments on shape and texture being important. Seems like your training is very targeted and so specific holds are really helpful for that.
I appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Did you look at the pics I have attached? I would be interested in any comments on what you see.
Regards,
PAT
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yodadave
Oct 22, 2012, 3:50 AM
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yes
very aesthetic
premium
yes
price is huge for me, i work in the outdoors for non profits, I make diddly squat.
I would look at wood holds for slopers and for a hangboard in the home that blends in and looks ok. I feel like most of the wooden holds i've seen vary greatly. Looks like you are aiming for reproducible which is cool. I'm also surprised to see you going for jugs instead of slopers but they look tight! nice work
would you be selling independently or through a hold company? The only others I'm aware of are beastmaker in the UK and Metolius.
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DrPat
Oct 22, 2012, 3:55 AM
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Yes my holds will be reproducible - very consistent. Jugs are no problem strength wise. I will aim at a full range from monster buckets to slopers and pinches.
I am aiming for a really reliable consistent product.
will be independently selling through the web. Trying to keep it small and boutique - supporting the family.
Thanks for your interest.
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granite_grrl
Oct 22, 2012, 1:39 PM
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DrPat wrote: - would you pay the same for a similar quality as synthetic hold?
No. to me they are a the type of hold you use to fill in your wall when you start collecting holds.
In reply to: - what is your perception of wood as a hold material? - do you perceive it as a premium material or a budget material?
Wood can be nice for large holds, but can be quite slick and I couldn't want to use it for anything other than something somewhat juggy. I see wood as a budget material.
In reply to: - do you have a home woody?
yes
In reply to: - what is your main criteria in choosing a hold? price? texture? shape (versatility)? other?
Shape is most important, but I also don't tend to buy holds unless they're a good price. In the past we have bought a lot of seconds.
In reply to: any other comments on purchasing wooden holds?
We have a number of wood holds on our wall at home. They can be nice to climb on and smooth out and get a nice patina on them with use. That said, I feel that the medium is limited and could not want to climb on wood crimps or pinches.
Wood holds are also something that many people can easily make for themselves and I personally would not pay money for prefabbed ones.
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lena_chita
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Oct 22, 2012, 6:59 PM
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DrPat wrote: Thanks for the reply Lena. Seems like your main objection is the smoothness and lack of grip. I can understand that. I guess that's the reason I like my wooden holds as I find synthetic really abrade the skin during a long training session and the smoothness increases my contact strength. Thanks also for your comments on shape and texture being important. Seems like your training is very targeted and so specific holds are really helpful for that. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Did you look at the pics I have attached? I would be interested in any comments on what you see. Regards, PAT
Yes, I did see the pictures you attached. I think the holds look well made, and nicely shaped. I don't know if you plan to finish them, or leave them as is. For a home gym, just plain wood is fine, but I think for a commercial large gym you would have to finish them with some kind of lacquer, and then we are back to the texture thing.
I do agree that the plastic holds, especially the really new ones, can be "too grippy" and actually tear up your skin too quickly. But other than a situation where I have taken several months off and lost all skin on my fingers, I do not find it to be a problem.
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sp00ki
Jan 18, 2013, 8:02 PM
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I'd like to see some crimps. Most people with home walls build them for training and subsequently don't need jugs as deep as the ones you've built. I have a 27 degree wall, and have maybe three jugs on my wall. They are all small, and are either underclings or sidepulls. All the rest of them are in a box... jugs really don't serve much purpose on a training wall.
My thoughts: Jugs targeted at the home wall should be more like slightly incut ample ledges: Good enough to warm up or rest on, but not a 5.3 gym jug.
As for holds that i think would benefit from being made of wood:
Small incut crimpy ledges, simple crimps, small "button" feet.
The trouble with wooden slopers is, as oils or sweat and chalk build up in sanded wood, the friction will go from bad to terrible. Washing the holds will be a problem (swelling), and the result will be an unusable hold.
Focusing on incut rounded crimps, ledges, flat rest ledges, slots, etc. would probably be the sort of thing that will end up working best when made of wood in my opinion.
PS-- i'm sure you've researched, but these guys have some cool cnc carved holds. i'm assuming you're doing the same?
http://www.woodenholds.com/
I like what they did with the slopers-- cut groves into them to avoid the situation i described above.
also, there are a few other companies out there if you want ideas about pricing:
http://woodpeckerholds.com/en/
http://magicwoodclimbingholds.blogspot.com/...lds-and-pricing.html
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Jan 18, 2013, 9:15 PM)
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the7thcity
May 22, 2013, 5:04 PM
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I am really curious about wooden holds and I just had a question that maybe you can answer for me. Why is it that all the Europeans, mainly the Brits, use them but Americans dont?
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DrPat
May 23, 2013, 7:28 AM
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Well I'm not American, but here in Australia, the accepted wisdom amongst those I know who use home walls for training is that wood is the most skin friendly and also allows you to customise your own holds.
Perhaps there is a larger group of Americans who only came into climbing through gyms, so they think that synthetic is 'better'. I know that quite a few U.S. climbers that I chat to call themselves climbers but never go out on real rock, although there must be the same section of the climbing community in the UK and Europe. I don't know about the Euro scene, but there must be many gyms that only use synthetic, so maybe you generalise a bit when you say all Euros?
Not really sure, but its an interesting question. Thanks for looking at my thread. Are you from the US? What would you think about buying wooden holds? Do you know why you are interested in them?
Cheers
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the7thcity
May 23, 2013, 12:09 PM
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DrPat wrote: Well I'm not American, but here in Australia, the accepted wisdom amongst those I know who use home walls for training is that wood is the most skin friendly and also allows you to customise your own holds. Perhaps there is a larger group of Americans who only came into climbing through gyms, so they think that synthetic is 'better'. I know that quite a few U.S. climbers that I chat to call themselves climbers but never go out on real rock, although there must be the same section of the climbing community in the UK and Europe. I don't know about the Euro scene, but there must be many gyms that only use synthetic, so maybe you generalise a bit when you say all Euros? Not really sure, but its an interesting question. Thanks for looking at my thread. Are you from the US? What would you think about buying wooden holds? Do you know why you are interested in them? Cheers
All I know is that when I look to buy wodden holds all I get is European websites minus Metolius which dont compare. I have wooden holds, I own a Beastmaker Hangboard made in the UK. I am from the US. I am thinking about buying wooden holds, but also I think about making them.
My hypothesis about this is that I think Euros, especially Brits, have to train harder and more specifically because their weather is bad and they have less options for climbing so they train on wooden holds because its harder to hold onto and therefore more efficient. Also in Europe they have a much more clearly defined role of climbing as a sport. Just thoughts.
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