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Adding rap rings to anchor?
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corno32


Oct 22, 2012, 9:38 AM
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Adding rap rings to anchor?
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In an area where I climb there's an anchor that doesn't have any chains or rap rings on it. There is a rap station on this wall but it's normally used for belaying on adjacent routes, and is a bit of a sketchy downclimb to reach from the other anchor.

This is a popular area so it'd be useful if one could rap from this anchor (without having to leave slings or whatever each time) as well. I don't mind to purchase and add rings myself if this is appropriate...

To put rings on the anchor can I just buy some steel rap rings from fixe and quick links to install them, done deal?

http://www.fixehardware.com/...el_rings-199_209.htm

I think this is the correct size to accommodate the above rings...
http://www.fixehardware.com/screw_links_long.htm

I assume I should not use any threadlocker because this will make it more difficult for someone to service in the future..

thanks


(This post was edited by corno32 on Oct 22, 2012, 9:40 AM)


csproul


Oct 22, 2012, 9:48 AM
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Re: [corno32] Adding rap rings to anchor? [In reply to]
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corno32 wrote:
In an area where I climb there's an anchor that doesn't have any chains or rap rings on it. There is a rap station on this wall but it's normally used for belaying on adjacent routes, and is a bit of a sketchy downclimb to reach from the other anchor.

This is a popular area so it'd be useful if one could rap from this anchor (without having to leave slings or whatever each time) as well. I don't mind to purchase and add rings myself if this is appropriate...

To put rings on the anchor can I just buy some steel rap rings from fixe and quick links to install them, done deal?

http://www.fixehardware.com/...el_rings-199_209.htm

I think this is the correct size to accommodate the above rings...
http://www.fixehardware.com/screw_links_long.htm

I assume I should not use any threadlocker because this will make it more difficult for someone to service in the future..

thanks
Yes, you could likely just use a quicklinks and rap rings...but have you considered that they are like that for a reason? If there is an established rap route or walk-off elsewhere then perhaps the bolts do not have rings on purpose. Especially if the route is popular, the developer may have done this on purpose to prevent a backup from people rapping back down a popular route. This may not be the case, but you might want to try and find out before installing hardware that might just disappear.


corno32


Oct 22, 2012, 11:52 AM
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Re: [csproul] Adding rap rings to anchor? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
Yes, you could likely just use a quicklinks and rap rings...but have you considered that they are like that for a reason? If there is an established rap route or walk-off elsewhere then perhaps the bolts do not have rings on purpose. Especially if the route is popular, the developer may have done this on purpose to prevent a backup from people rapping back down a popular route. This may not be the case, but you might want to try and find out before installing hardware that might just disappear.

thanks for the reply

Yes, and no I don't see any special reason for it to be sans rings. As I mentioned there is a rap station but it's typically tied up with someone belaying off it, if you really have to there is a long walk off.

The anchor in question is older and it's at the top of a seldom led R rated mixed gear/bolt climb, that most top rope after leading the adjacent trad climb. So it will work out nicely in that you can do the normal clean and rap after you lead the mixed climb or tope rope it, and get off the wall.

I suppose you could make a case that they shouldn't be there so that someone doesn't throw a rope down on someone doing an R rated climb. That's about like saying no R rated climb should have rap rings at the top though. The situation is no different than setting up any other climb/rap from the top you don't do it if someone's coming up near, and to get to the mixed climb you'll have just led the climb 10 feet to the right of it anyway.


(This post was edited by corno32 on Oct 22, 2012, 11:55 AM)


redlude97


Oct 22, 2012, 12:30 PM
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Re: [corno32] Adding rap rings to anchor? [In reply to]
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corno32 wrote:
csproul wrote:
Yes, you could likely just use a quicklinks and rap rings...but have you considered that they are like that for a reason? If there is an established rap route or walk-off elsewhere then perhaps the bolts do not have rings on purpose. Especially if the route is popular, the developer may have done this on purpose to prevent a backup from people rapping back down a popular route. This may not be the case, but you might want to try and find out before installing hardware that might just disappear.

thanks for the reply

Yes, and no I don't see any special reason for it to be sans rings. As I mentioned there is a rap station but it's typically tied up with someone belaying off it, if you really have to there is a long walk off.

The anchor in question is older and it's at the top of a seldom led R rated mixed gear/bolt climb, that most top rope after leading the adjacent trad climb. So it will work out nicely in that you can do the normal clean and rap after you lead the mixed climb or tope rope it, and get off the wall.

I suppose you could make a case that they shouldn't be there so that someone doesn't throw a rope down on someone doing an R rated climb. That's about like saying no R rated climb should have rap rings at the top though. The situation is no different than setting up any other climb/rap from the top you don't do it if someone's coming up near, and to get to the mixed climb you'll have just led the climb 10 feet to the right of it anyway.
That answers your question as to why there aren't rings, and why they shouldn't be added.


csproul


Oct 22, 2012, 12:40 PM
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Re: [corno32] Adding rap rings to anchor? [In reply to]
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corno32 wrote:
csproul wrote:
Yes, you could likely just use a quicklinks and rap rings...but have you considered that they are like that for a reason? If there is an established rap route or walk-off elsewhere then perhaps the bolts do not have rings on purpose. Especially if the route is popular, the developer may have done this on purpose to prevent a backup from people rapping back down a popular route. This may not be the case, but you might want to try and find out before installing hardware that might just disappear.

thanks for the reply

Yes, and no I don't see any special reason for it to be sans rings. As I mentioned there is a rap station but it's typically tied up with someone belaying off it, if you really have to there is a long walk off.

The anchor in question is older and it's at the top of a seldom led R rated mixed gear/bolt climb, that most top rope after leading the adjacent trad climb. So it will work out nicely in that you can do the normal clean and rap after you lead the mixed climb or tope rope it, and get off the wall.

I suppose you could make a case that they shouldn't be there so that someone doesn't throw a rope down on someone doing an R rated climb. That's about like saying no R rated climb should have rap rings at the top though. The situation is no different than setting up any other climb/rap from the top you don't do it if someone's coming up near, and to get to the mixed climb you'll have just led the climb 10 feet to the right of it anyway.
I think you really need to be asking people who are really familiar with the area and if at all possible find the people who equipped the routes in the first place. You mention there is a rap station that people belay off of for other routes. it is also possible that the developer did not intend/foresee that people would belay off of the bolts. It is possible that s/he thought that people would use their own anchors to belay off of and then use the bolts only to get down. I have seen this happen at several areas, and it is often comical to watch climbers go out of their way to traverse over and use bolts to belay off of when there are perfectly good anchor possibilities right at the top of their climb.

I see no problem with using the quicklinks and rings that you mention, but if other people in the area don't agree with it then the might just disappear.


corno32


Oct 22, 2012, 1:34 PM
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Re: [csproul] Adding rap rings to anchor? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
I think you really need to be asking people who are really familiar with the area and if at all possible find the people who equipped the routes in the first place. You mention there is a rap station that people belay off of for other routes. it is also possible that the developer did not intend/foresee that people would belay off of the bolts. It is possible that s/he thought that people would use their own anchors to belay off of and then use the bolts only to get down. I have seen this happen at several areas, and it is often comical to watch climbers go out of their way to traverse over and use bolts to belay off of when there are perfectly good anchor possibilities right at the top of their climb.

I see no problem with using the quicklinks and rings that you mention, but if other people in the area don't agree with it then the might just disappear.

Yah haven't been able to reach them. It's legit to belay off the anchor/rap station, there's a TR only route just below it for example by the same developer. There's a trad route to its right that you could build gear for, but the guidebook tells people to use the anchor/rap station so they do, unaware that they're taking away the only rap station.

So it's a bit of both.

We just threw up some rings on webbing to get down, so people at least have some rings they can retie or steal. I'll probably just leave it at that.

thanks for your input


(This post was edited by corno32 on Oct 22, 2012, 1:37 PM)


TarHeelEMT


Oct 22, 2012, 3:51 PM
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Re: [corno32] Adding rap rings to anchor? [In reply to]
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What's the area you're talking about? Perhaps the relevant locals can weigh in.


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