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madkiki


Oct 23, 2012, 4:56 AM
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5.15
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How many people in the world can climb a 5.15? I have read about maybe 6 well known climbers to be able to climb a 5.15, but are there other people who can climb this?


jomagam


Oct 23, 2012, 8:36 AM
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Re: [madkiki] 5.15 [In reply to]
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My guess is about 20-25 people. Realization has been climbed by 7 at least.


lena_chita
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Oct 23, 2012, 8:45 AM
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Re: [madkiki] 5.15 [In reply to]
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madkiki wrote:
How many people in the world can climb a 5.15? I have read about maybe 6 well known climbers to be able to climb a 5.15, but are there other people who can climb this?


How many people CAN, or how many people HAVE already?

The second one is a matter of doing some web searching. Currently there are few enough, their names are all out there on 8a.nu, or in climbing news releases.

The first one is anyone's guess. Out of the entire human population? Maybe thousands. Out of people who have tried climbing at least once? Probably hundreds. Out of the people who are currently little kids crushing 5.14s-- probably most of them, which would be couple dozens, at least.


camhead


Oct 23, 2012, 8:59 AM
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Re: [madkiki] 5.15 [In reply to]
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Hmm, off the top of my head, no googling... there are way more that I couldn't remember, too.

Adam Ondra
Paxti Usobiaga
Bernabe Fernandez (dubious)
Ramonet Julien
Iker Pou
Dave Graham (has he graded any of his FAs 15a?)
Dani Andrada
Chris Sharma
Tommy Caldwell*
Mike Foley
Daniel Woods
Ethan Pringle
Yuji Hirayama*
Fred Rhouling*
Steve McClure
Enzo Oddo
Gabriel Moroni
Jonathan Siegrist*
Adam Taylor*
Magnus Midtboe

*Unrepeated FAs


madkiki


Oct 23, 2012, 9:49 AM
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Re: [madkiki] 5.15 [In reply to]
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It would be interesting if there was some kind of official list of climbers accomplishments.


camhead


Oct 23, 2012, 9:52 AM
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Re: [madkiki] 5.15 [In reply to]
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madkiki wrote:
It would be interesting if there was some kind of official list of climbers accomplishments.


http://escalade9.wifeo.com/grimpeurs.php


madkiki


Oct 23, 2012, 10:02 AM
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Re: [camhead] 5.15 [In reply to]
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Thank you for this list. Compare that list to the entire growing climbing community around the world it is still a small group of impressive people.

With this list I will be able to do more research.

Thanks again for the information


dagibbs


Oct 23, 2012, 10:30 AM
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Re: [madkiki] 5.15 [In reply to]
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Note that the list is for climbers who have climbed 9a, which is (about) 5.14d, you'd need to reduce that list to climbers who have climbed 9a+ or better, which will be shorter.


ObviousTroll


Oct 23, 2012, 10:36 AM
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Re: [camhead] 5.15 [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Hmm, off the top of my head, no googling... there are way more that I couldn't remember, too.

Adam Ondra
Paxti Usobiaga
Bernabe Fernandez (dubious)
Ramonet Julien
Iker Pou
Dave Graham (has he graded any of his FAs 15a?)
Dani Andrada
Chris Sharma
Tommy Caldwell*
Mike Foley
Daniel Woods
Ethan Pringle
Yuji Hirayama*
Fred Rhouling*
Steve McClure
Enzo Oddo
Gabriel Moroni
Jonathan Siegrist*
Adam Taylor*
Magnus Midtboe

*Unrepeated FAs

Man... In the event of rock climbing jeopardy, you're set.


shotwell


Oct 23, 2012, 10:47 AM
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Re: [camhead] 5.15 [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Hmm, off the top of my head, no googling... there are way more that I couldn't remember, too.

Adam Ondra
Paxti Usobiaga
Bernabe Fernandez (dubious)
Ramonet Julien
Iker Pou
Dave Graham (has he graded any of his FAs 15a?)
Dani Andrada
Chris Sharma
Tommy Caldwell*
Mike Foley
Daniel Woods
Ethan Pringle
Yuji Hirayama*
Fred Rhouling*
Steve McClure
Enzo Oddo
Gabriel Moroni
Jonathan Siegrist*
Adam Taylor*
Magnus Midtboe

*Unrepeated FAs

Dave claimed 9a+ for Coup de Grace in Ticino though it was subsequently downgraded to 9a when Gabriel Moroni found an easier crux sequence (V11 where Graham found V14 iirc.)

Dave has climbed Realization as well as suggesting 9a+ for The Wheel of Life, so he certainly belongs on the list.

Cedric Lachat is the only obvious omission to me with Papichulo, a 9a+ in Oliana.

I'm not aware that Siegrist has ever claimed a true 9a+. I'm pretty sure 9a/+ is the highest grade he has claimed for an FA, but I could have missed something.

Jonathan Siegrist, via Rock and Ice
wrote:
I'm unsure about exactly how hard it is. On Le Reve, I spent a huge amount of time and effort, and thus it definitely felt harder than any route I've ever done ... but I have zero experience climbing in the 5.15 realm so I'm very hesitant to declare such an astronomical grade. Plus, new routes are always so tricky to grade. Who knows what I may have missed, or how the route may have tested my dimensions or weakness, etc.?

I'll think it over more, but honestly I don't really care about what grade it ends up at. It presented a challenge like one I've never faced before and it was a battle to stick with it. I'm just so damn psyched to have sent.

Really nice list for off the top of the head. I would have missed McLure, Fernandez (though I am aware of Chilam Balam and just doubt his claim,) and Foley. Probably need about 231 more Spaniards on the list, but American climbing media isn't reliable about reporting international accomplishments.


camhead


Oct 23, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Re: [shotwell] 5.15 [In reply to]
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shotwell wrote:
camhead wrote:
Hmm, off the top of my head, no googling... there are way more that I couldn't remember, too.

Adam Ondra
Paxti Usobiaga
Bernabe Fernandez (dubious)
Ramonet Julien
Iker Pou
Dave Graham (has he graded any of his FAs 15a?)
Dani Andrada
Chris Sharma
Tommy Caldwell*
Mike Foley
Daniel Woods
Ethan Pringle
Yuji Hirayama*
Fred Rhouling*
Steve McClure
Enzo Oddo
Gabriel Moroni
Jonathan Siegrist*
Adam Taylor*
Magnus Midtboe

*Unrepeated FAs

Dave claimed 9a+ for Coup de Grace in Ticino though it was subsequently downgraded to 9a when Gabriel Moroni found an easier crux sequence (V11 where Graham found V14 iirc.)

Dave has climbed Realization as well as suggesting 9a+ for The Wheel of Life, so he certainly belongs on the list.

Cedric Lachat is the only obvious omission to me with Papichulo, a 9a+ in Oliana.

I'm not aware that Siegrist has ever claimed a true 9a+. I'm pretty sure 9a/+ is the highest grade he has claimed for an FA, but I could have missed something.

Jonathan Siegrist, via Rock and Ice
wrote:
I'm unsure about exactly how hard it is. On Le Reve, I spent a huge amount of time and effort, and thus it definitely felt harder than any route I've ever done ... but I have zero experience climbing in the 5.15 realm so I'm very hesitant to declare such an astronomical grade. Plus, new routes are always so tricky to grade. Who knows what I may have missed, or how the route may have tested my dimensions or weakness, etc.?

I'll think it over more, but honestly I don't really care about what grade it ends up at. It presented a challenge like one I've never faced before and it was a battle to stick with it. I'm just so damn psyched to have sent.

Really nice list for off the top of the head. I would have missed McLure, Fernandez (though I am aware of Chilam Balam and just doubt his claim,) and Foley. Probably need about 231 more Spaniards on the list, but American climbing media isn't reliable about reporting international accomplishments.

Ok, I was not aware that Graham had done Realization. And yeah, I was thinking of La Reve for Siegrist.

I slightly related news, Ondra is on his way to the Red River Gorge right now. Get your everything ready, the end is near!


shotwell


Oct 23, 2012, 11:12 AM
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Re: [camhead] 5.15 [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
shotwell wrote:
camhead wrote:
Hmm, off the top of my head, no googling... there are way more that I couldn't remember, too.

Adam Ondra
Paxti Usobiaga
Bernabe Fernandez (dubious)
Ramonet Julien
Iker Pou
Dave Graham (has he graded any of his FAs 15a?)
Dani Andrada
Chris Sharma
Tommy Caldwell*
Mike Foley
Daniel Woods
Ethan Pringle
Yuji Hirayama*
Fred Rhouling*
Steve McClure
Enzo Oddo
Gabriel Moroni
Jonathan Siegrist*
Adam Taylor*
Magnus Midtboe

*Unrepeated FAs

Dave claimed 9a+ for Coup de Grace in Ticino though it was subsequently downgraded to 9a when Gabriel Moroni found an easier crux sequence (V11 where Graham found V14 iirc.)

Dave has climbed Realization as well as suggesting 9a+ for The Wheel of Life, so he certainly belongs on the list.

Cedric Lachat is the only obvious omission to me with Papichulo, a 9a+ in Oliana.

I'm not aware that Siegrist has ever claimed a true 9a+. I'm pretty sure 9a/+ is the highest grade he has claimed for an FA, but I could have missed something.

Jonathan Siegrist, via Rock and Ice
wrote:
I'm unsure about exactly how hard it is. On Le Reve, I spent a huge amount of time and effort, and thus it definitely felt harder than any route I've ever done ... but I have zero experience climbing in the 5.15 realm so I'm very hesitant to declare such an astronomical grade. Plus, new routes are always so tricky to grade. Who knows what I may have missed, or how the route may have tested my dimensions or weakness, etc.?

I'll think it over more, but honestly I don't really care about what grade it ends up at. It presented a challenge like one I've never faced before and it was a battle to stick with it. I'm just so damn psyched to have sent.

Really nice list for off the top of the head. I would have missed McLure, Fernandez (though I am aware of Chilam Balam and just doubt his claim,) and Foley. Probably need about 231 more Spaniards on the list, but American climbing media isn't reliable about reporting international accomplishments.

Ok, I was not aware that Graham had done Realization. And yeah, I was thinking of La Reve for Siegrist.

I slightly related news, Ondra is on his way to the Red River Gorge right now. Get your everything ready, the end is near!

2007 for Graham and Realization, though there wasn't much publicity about it.

There are already a bunch of strong climbers in The Red, with Lachat reporting a 'second burn' ascent of Pure Imagination and 'fifth try' ascent of The Golden Ticket. Ashima flashed Omaha Beach as well. The good news with Ondra showing up is that we'll soon find out if Taylor was justified in giving 9a+ to Southern Smoke Direct!

Maybe something will finally happen this season with the old Sharma project at Drive-by. Surely that is the only thing hard enough to be worth his time (unless this is simply a quick stop on his way to the high Nevada desert.)

edited for my inability to speak 'Jens.'


(This post was edited by shotwell on Oct 23, 2012, 11:15 AM)


marc801


Oct 23, 2012, 11:23 AM
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Re: [camhead] 5.15 [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
madkiki wrote:
It would be interesting if there was some kind of official list of climbers accomplishments.


http://escalade9.wifeo.com/grimpeurs.php

Also look at: http://www.8a.nu


jomagam


Oct 23, 2012, 1:03 PM
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Re: [camhead] 5.15 [In reply to]
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Sachi Amma - Pachamama
Edu Marin - La Rambla
Patxi Usobiaga - Realization
Sylvian Millett - Realization
Jakob Schubert - Papichulo

I bet I missed a bunch.


hugepedro


Oct 23, 2012, 1:50 PM
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Re: [camhead] 5.15 [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Hmm, off the top of my head, no googling... there are way more that I couldn't remember, too.

Adam Ondra
Paxti Usobiaga
Bernabe Fernandez (dubious)
Ramonet Julien
Iker Pou
Dave Graham (has he graded any of his FAs 15a?)
Dani Andrada
Chris Sharma
Tommy Caldwell*
Mike Foley
Daniel Woods
Ethan Pringle
Yuji Hirayama*
Fred Rhouling*
Steve McClure
Enzo Oddo
Gabriel Moroni
Jonathan Siegrist*
Adam Taylor*
Magnus Midtboe

*Unrepeated FAs

fanboi


Partner cracklover


Oct 24, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Re: [camhead] 5.15 [In reply to]
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If Jaws II at Rumney is 5.15a, then add Vasya Vorotnikov to the list. I dunno if he's done other 5.15s that are confirmed at the grade. I see that Mike Foley is on your list, and I've read that when he sent Jaws II he said it was the hardest thing he'd ever done, so that suggests that 5.15a is a fair grade.

GO


blueeyedclimber


Oct 25, 2012, 7:04 AM
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Re: [cracklover] 5.15 [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
If Jaws II at Rumney is 5.15a, then add Vasya Vorotnikov to the list. I dunno if he's done other 5.15s that are confirmed at the grade. I see that Mike Foley is on your list, and I've read that when he sent Jaws II he said it was the hardest thing he'd ever done, so that suggests that 5.15a is a fair grade.

GO

Northeast climbers representin'! Smile


camhead


Oct 25, 2012, 7:25 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] 5.15 [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
cracklover wrote:
If Jaws II at Rumney is 5.15a, then add Vasya Vorotnikov to the list. I dunno if he's done other 5.15s that are confirmed at the grade. I see that Mike Foley is on your list, and I've read that when he sent Jaws II he said it was the hardest thing he'd ever done, so that suggests that 5.15a is a fair grade.

GO

Northeast climbers representin'! Smile

Yeah, I had Foley on there because of Jaws II, so Vorotnikov should be on there as well.


Alimali


Oct 31, 2012, 9:17 PM
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Re: [madkiki] 5.15 [In reply to]
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I'm not sure, but considering there's more than a million people who climb on a regular basis, and there's probably less than 40 who have accomplished that grade, I would guess it would be less than .01% of climbers.


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