Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Sport Question

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Sport Question

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circa86

Jul 29, 2011, 3:49 PM
Post #1 of 6 (2671 views)
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Registered: Aug 15, 2010
Posts: 16

Sport Question (North_America: United_States: New_York: Adirondack_park: Keene_Valley: Beer_Walls) Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I have only top roped but am looking to do some sport. I am wondering if there are any pre anchored clips and any easy first timer sport routes here. I don’t want to cam or bolt. I just want something to quickdray to. Is this available here, preferably around 5.5 - 5.6 for my very first time. Any recommendations?

dagibbs

Jul 29, 2011, 6:31 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921

Re: [circa86] Sport Question [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I just flipped through the listings in Adirondack Rock for the Beer Walls -- bunches of fairly easy gear leads, and some top-ropable stuff (from the descriptions), but doesn't look like very much sport at all -- spotted a couple in the 5.10 range.

Crux92

Sep 28, 2012, 6:45 PM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2012
Posts: 2

Re: [dagibbs] Sport Question [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Like you said I also have ADK Rock there are no walls around that area that are consistently bolted. According to the guidebook you will find the most sport climbing in the Lake George area like Buck mtn. and Rodgers slab also has some bolted lines. Keep in mind that the majority of the routes that are bolted in the Adirondacks start at higher grades like 5.11b.

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jimlawyer

Oct 23, 2012, 4:53 PM
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Registered: May 10, 2002
Posts: 20

Re: [Crux92] Sport Question [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

There's a list of sport climbs here: http://www.facebook.com/...acks/183018281780753

redlude97

Oct 23, 2012, 5:45 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990

Re: [circa86] Sport Question [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

circa86 wrote:

Your post is unclear, you say you don't want to cam or bolt, do you mean you don't want to place cams or drill bolts, and want preplaced bolts that you clip quickdraws(not drays) to? Do you have the requisite gear already? Do you know how to clean routes? Your local gym would be a good place to start

marc801

Oct 23, 2012, 6:45 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [circa86] Sport Question [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

circa86 wrote:

It seems you're in luck with the quarry area in the list referenced in JimLawyer's post. However, in general, in most areas in the country, there are relatively few sport routes below 5.8. More are being created because of the apparent need, and there are definitely more now than 10 years ago, but still there are hundreds of sport crags where the easiest routes are 5.10.

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