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jeff59


Oct 26, 2012, 9:42 AM
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Re: [havard] older climbers [In reply to]
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Had to post another comment from the 69 year old contingent-- just keep getting out-- I've had an torn ACL repaired (ski injury) and both hips are now titanium (over use/abuse/arthritis)-- still teach alpine & telemark skiing 70 days/year, guide rock and ice (slow on approaches) and regularly lead 5.9 trad and occasionally 5.10. If I could lose 20 lbs without totally giving up beer, I'd climb as hard as I ever did in my forties, but I can't seem to convince myself that it's worth it-- still having fun EVERY day out!Cool Jeff


bearbreeder


Oct 26, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Re: [havard] older climbers [In reply to]
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https://vimeo.com/51155608

60 year old sends 8b+, 5.14a ...

where there is a will, there is a way Wink


Syd


Oct 26, 2012, 8:17 PM
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Re: [havard] older climbers [In reply to]
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havard wrote:
Syd, you have no idea how this is inspiering me! I was well into my 5.11 trad climbs when I was shut down due to a bad shoulder two years ago. I´m finally recovering enough to start climbing again, and you still improving tells me I´ve lost nothing! Thanks, man!

Thank you havard. As you get older, your list of injuries and ailments will keep growing. It's just a matter of finding ways to deal with it. 6 years ago I was told I needed a hip replacement. I was told there was no cure and the pain would only get worse. Anyway, my wife and I developed a therapy and I'm now pain free. I'd even thought metal hips would mean the end of climbing until I read Jeff59's post !


moose_droppings


Oct 26, 2012, 8:59 PM
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Re: [jgill] older climbers [In reply to]
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jgill wrote:
Rob and Rich,

Great to hear you are staying very active, fighting the good fight.
Long may you run . . . !

My best to you both,
John Cool

With respect, how old are you now Mr. Gill?
Still bouldering/climbing?


marc801


Oct 27, 2012, 6:04 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] older climbers [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
jgill wrote:
Rob and Rich,

Great to hear you are staying very active, fighting the good fight.
Long may you run . . . !

My best to you both,
John Cool

With respect, how old are you now Mr. Gill?
Still bouldering/climbing?
According to the wiki entry [ http://en.wikipedia.org/...n_Gill_%28climber%29 ], John Gill was born in 1937, making him a spry 75.


jgill


Oct 28, 2012, 4:31 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] older climbers [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
jgill wrote:
Rob and Rich,

Great to hear you are staying very active, fighting the good fight.
Long may you run . . . !

My best to you both,
John Cool

With respect, how old are you now Mr. Gill?
Still bouldering/climbing?
I'm 75 and still somewhat active, although I haven't climbed in several years due to severe shoulder arthritis. But I can still do a few things:

http://www.youtube.com/...ed&v=7XklZ40FGgs

;>)


Syd


Oct 28, 2012, 4:52 PM
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Re: [jgill] older climbers [In reply to]
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Love it John. Fantastic. I have personal experience with arthritis and know how painful it can be. Is it osteo arthritis ?


jgill


Oct 28, 2012, 5:13 PM
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Re: [Syd] older climbers [In reply to]
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Syd wrote:
Love it John. Fantastic. I have personal experience with arthritis and know how painful it can be. Is it osteo arthritis ?

Yes, but probably due to still ring moves done many decades ago rather than climbing. But I still enjoy hikes and bodyweight exercises like those on the video. That residual strength you see may come from my several years competitive rope climbing (20', 1.5" diam, arms only from seat on the floor . . . best time: 3.4 seconds)

I have no regrets. Actually, I would rather have these strengths now rather than toiling away on some boulder problem done by a 10 year-old with no such strengths. I originally got into climbing (1953) to develop a manly physique! Sure seems silly now, but those were different times. Cool


binrat


Oct 28, 2012, 5:26 PM
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Re: [jgill] older climbers [In reply to]
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And all my climbing partners call me "oldman". I'm a young pup at 53 around you gentleman. Only bad part about my age, finding someone who is happy climbing 5.fun (5.10 and below)


Syd


Oct 28, 2012, 8:45 PM
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Re: [jgill] older climbers [In reply to]
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jgill wrote:
Yes, but probably due to still ring moves done many decades ago rather than climbing.

John, I think there's a lot more to osteo arthritis that doctors know. I have it in the hips. I was supposed to get a hip replacement 6 years ago. (I'm 64). Doctors assured me it would only get worse and nothing could be done. My wife checked the X-rays with another doctor and he warned her about marrying me. I figured I'm very fit and healthy, bone regenerates itself every 7 years or so, so what's going on ? I thought that tight muscles may be inhibiting blood flow to the joint. 4 months with a physio and it just got worse. I thought that massage around the lower spine might help. It worked ! An hour a day of very hard and very painful massage from my wonderful wife, turned it around. I'm now pain free. Now she massages twice a week to maintain it. I still have no idea what makes it tighten so much but I can still climb without problems.

There may be a way massage could help you.


donald949


Oct 29, 2012, 10:55 AM
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Re: [oldguy53] older climbers [In reply to]
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Awsome stories.
With any luck I'll whip the kids here at work into a climbing trip this Vets day. RR/Josh are in the discussion.
Don, 47.


oldguy53


Oct 29, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Re: [donald949] older climbers [In reply to]
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 7 years ago at El Dorado Canyon I looked around to notice that I was by far the oldest one . Other places same thing. I've even heard a 24 year old lamenting that he got into climbing so late in life. I may aim a little lower , but i'm still in the game. bobo


jeff59


Oct 29, 2012, 2:11 PM
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Re: [oldguy53] older climbers [In reply to]
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Since I started climbing 48 years ago at 21, I've burned through several generations of climbing partners--they've plateaued and lost interest, married and lost interest, had kids and lost time or interest, got new jobs and decided they didn't have time, etc. ,etc.-- in that time , I've plateaued, advanced, regressed, been married for 42 years (still happily) fathered and raised an outdoor loving daughter, stayed in one job for 37 years, retired, recovered from several injuries/surgeries and had to find new climbing partners every 5 years or so. Call me crazy but I've never felt like giving it up-- I can't do alpine climbs with big approaches fast enough anymore to avoid a bivvy, either before, during or after, but I still get out on rock or ice 60 + days /year and ski 70+ days /year. My regular partners range from 35 to 4 years younger than me, and the older ones are the most active! If it's still fun, do it! If not, find something else that IS fun and do that! Climb to ski, Ski to live, Live to climb seems a good adage to me.


dwv16


Oct 29, 2012, 5:27 PM
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Re: [louBlissab] older climbers [In reply to]
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In reply to:

Even a bad day climbing...


shockabuku


Oct 29, 2012, 7:16 PM
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Re: [yanqui] older climbers [In reply to]
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yanqui wrote:
I'm 54 going on 55...

That's good!Wink


billcoe_


Oct 29, 2012, 9:09 PM
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Re: [Syd] older climbers [In reply to]
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Syd wrote:
... I have it in the hips. I was supposed to get a hip replacement 6 years ago. (I'm 64). Doctors assured me it would only get worse and nothing could be done. My wife checked the X-rays with another doctor and he warned her about marrying me. I figured I'm very fit and healthy, bone regenerates itself every 7 years or so, so what's going on ? I thought that tight muscles may be inhibiting blood flow to the joint. 4 months with a physio and it just got worse. I thought that massage around the lower spine might help. It worked ! An hour a day of very hard and very painful massage from my wonderful wife, turned it around. I'm now pain free. Now she massages twice a week to maintain it. I still have no idea what makes it tighten so much but I can still climb without problems.

There may be a way massage could help you.


Send her over this way, I've had to change my diet and it worked, but am always welcome to having your wife do the rub thing to me....hmmm, that doesn't sound quite right. Congrats anyway, she's clearly a keeper.

You old dudes are an inspiration for when i get old. (57 now) Wow.

Wow. Thanks for sharing all that.


(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Oct 29, 2012, 9:22 PM)


Smythie


Nov 5, 2012, 5:58 PM
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Re: [rgold] older climbers [In reply to]
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Oh this is such a fantastic thread! I'm almost 39 and only started bouldering around two years ago with a 6 month hiatus in the middle to recover from a broken humerous (from snowboarding, not climbing Wink). I love climbing, but I do feel like an old bird sometimes when I'm surrounded by youngsters in the gym. Well now, that's an end to my old-bird mentality after reading all your inspiring posts. With any luck, I've got decades ahead of me yet...


(This post was edited by Smythie on Nov 5, 2012, 5:59 PM)


Partner oldsalt


Nov 5, 2012, 8:11 PM
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I quit climbing over a year ago, when I began having memory problems. I parked at the base of the tower at Currahee, and hauled my gear to the top of the climbing area. When I reached for my rope bag, I discovered that it was still in my car. I decided that if I could forget my rope, I could forget to tie-in or maintain a belay. So I went home.

Looking back, I learned that I was seriously sleep deprived, due to bad habits involving caffeine and lack of sleep. I was actually diagnosed with Alzheimer's Disease before I figured out how to make the needed changes. No caffeine after noon, earlier to bed.

Next, I had to go back to the neurologist and convince him it was not AD. We both did a lot of research. I learned that I had had Polio at age 4, and then that very few polio survivors ever develop AD. It is a function of a shared gene. So what was my problem?

I learned that my memory problems could have been the result of two transient ischemic attacks 10 years ago. I shared this with my doc, also. He agreed that it could be that and promised to do more research.

A few weeks ago, we met and he presented his diagnosis: Migraines.

I had painful ones as a child, but since my 30s only rare events without pain. The pain free aspect masked the presence of the migraine attacks. I packed up my gear and went to Sand Rock (Alabama) this past Saturday. The place was jammed; every route had a line in front of it.

I hitched a ride from a Boy Scout leader and sent my first top rope route since the day at Currahee. Now that I know I am not dying early, I had to get back out and actually take the controlled risk that makes my living worthwhile. History: caught in the rip surfing at Chun's Reef (North Shore Oahu) in 1969. Survived the sinking of a 40' power cruiser in the Gulf Stream in '74. New hip in 2008, followed 18 months later by running the Atlanta Half-marathon.

A year of facing a slow death, burdening my family, my wife's cancer and marvelous recovery, new grand kids, new job that I love. What contrasts. What a life. I'm not a good climber, but I'm apparently a decent survivor. I AM ALIVE!


mikegillam


Nov 6, 2012, 3:51 PM
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Re: [oldsalt] older climbers [In reply to]
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I am always looking for 5.fun partners. Located in Ohio, but am up for weekend trips to the Red, Adk, etc... Also, mountaineering and ice climbing is always a big interest! Almost forgot, 51 and getting younger by the day! Heading to the Red this weekend!Cool


sandstone


Nov 6, 2012, 4:53 PM
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Re: [mikegillam] older climbers [In reply to]
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Been at it since I was about 16. Got a degree, raised a family, had a career or two, so I was never even close to being a climbing bum. I never wanted to be (well maybe a little).

I'm 54 now. Never hit any big numbers, never plan to. I just love the simple joy of it all. The feel of the stone, the thunk of my ice axe, the click of a biner, the knowing grin of a partner halfway up a pitch -- it never loses its magic.


Partner robdotcalm


Nov 6, 2012, 8:54 PM
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Old Salt, A while back we communicated about going climbing and you mentioned the troubles you were experiencing. It’s great to hear that your problems have resolved and you’re climbing again. Congratulations on pushing the doctor to get a more accurate diagnosis. Come to Colorado next year, and we can climb where there’ll be no waiting in line.

The memory problems you had do not seem at all like Alzheimer’s. People with AD do not think clearly and would not draw logical conclusions about what forgetting a rope means.

Cheers,
Rob.calm


EdBustamante


Nov 7, 2012, 6:03 AM
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HELLO RICH
You may not remember me but you inspired me into a life time of climbing, I bought my firs eb's from the trunk of you car in the late 70 early 80's you guided my brother Mike and I. My first day climbing ended with bonnies roof one thing thayt stuck with me all these years was the traverse and me saying I don't think this is possiable but I was talked thru it an remained calm that same fealing is what we all look for and if that is still there there is no reason to quit.


oldguy53


Nov 7, 2012, 12:24 PM
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I'm in Indy. and looking for ' older partners ' for next spring . Does the RED work for you in April?? bobo


Partner oldsalt


Nov 7, 2012, 3:00 PM
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Re: [jgill] older climbers [In reply to]
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John, I am honored to be sharing thoughts with a legend. You mentioned in your web bio that you enjoy soloing. Is it age or what (can't be wisdom)? In the 9 years I have been climbing, I have done nearly twice as many solo climbs as belayed, including sport and gear leads.

I'm not talking 5.10, but peace and happiness is out there in the solitude. The best times were being the only human at Table Rock, Yonah, or Sand Rock. I have, of course, gotten in over my head once or twice. Taking responsibility for yourself and getting out of crap you got yourself in is soul satisfying.

Once, I got 20' up a Table Rock route, but it was not the 5.6 I thought it was. It was an .11 with the first bolt 10' to my right. I had been focused on finding holds and had not noticed that I had wandered. I could only down climb, as the way over to the bolt looked like polished glass. Funny what you can do when you have to do it.

I do carry a cell phone, and check in and out with family. It's the only way my wife would tolerate my trips.


mikegillam


Nov 8, 2012, 4:15 AM
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The Red works in April. Weekends are best, could add a Friday or Monday depending on dates. Also works in May, June...

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