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meanandugly
Sep 27, 2012, 5:00 AM
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Hey,
I will be coming to the Gunks in a couple of weeks with a youth climber. She is a small 11yr old, but has a lot of climbing experience (top female in her age range in Canada). She boulders, leads sport, and tr's ice, but wants to break into the trad world. I am not worried about her climbing abilities (worried more about mine ;p ). Just wondering about some good routes for her stature.
Thanks
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wonderwoman
Sep 27, 2012, 1:16 PM
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Moved from general to east coast by ww.
I assume by 'break into trad' you mean that she will be following you. What do you lead & have you ever climbed at the gunks?
Also, you may want to post in the forum at gunks.com to get locals to make recommendations. There is a good crew over there.
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meanandugly
Sep 27, 2012, 5:21 PM
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Thanks...been to the Gunks many times and have over 30yrs climbing experience (about the # of yrs climbing trad). She has practiced placing gear and building anchors and may do a lead or to. Just looking for info on some climbs for someone of shorter stature.
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wonderwoman
Sep 27, 2012, 7:16 PM
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Three Pines or Easy Overhang come to mind. We took our daughter up Three Pines when she was around that age, and she's a little person.
Definitely ask the folks over here:
http://gunks.com/...eads7/ubbthreads.php
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meanandugly
Sep 27, 2012, 9:51 PM
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Thanks again
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grantjk
Sep 28, 2012, 8:47 PM
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I took my daughter climbing at the Gunks for the first time when she was 11. We went to a slide show given by Lynn Hill at Rock and Ice, and afterward got to talk to her briefly. They were the same height, just over 5', and my daughter's hands were a little bigger, so from that day on being small was eliminated as an excuse. Instead, now that she's been out-climbing me for the past couple of years, I get to cite being too tall as the problem!
We did Yum Yum Yab Yum as her first climb, then Gelsa and a bunch of other stuff. We've climbed there since many times, and I don't think she's been shut down by her height yet, so I think your 11 yo will do just great!
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meanandugly
Sep 28, 2012, 8:50 PM
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That's awesome. Thanks
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gblauer
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Sep 30, 2012, 11:36 PM
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I assume that she is following you rather than trying to place gear. If that's true, I would try:
Betty 5.3 (both pitches)
Easy Overhang 5.2 (both pitches), but, Pitch 2 is very very exposed
Bunny (with 5.6 or without 5.4 the roof)
No Picnic (5.4) (Small roof)
Jackie 5.5
Belly Roll 5.4 (both pitches)
Dennis 5.4 (both pitches)
Rhododendon 5.6
Frog's head 5.6 (both pitches, nice ledge for the belay for P2)
Ken's 5.7
Laurel 5.7
Horseman 5.5 (do it two pitches), if she is comfortable belaying from a hanging belay, other wise do it one
Harvard 5.3 (fun, it ducks up behind a big rock)
Baby 5.6, fun offwidth that will keep her attention. I suspect she will be small enough to practically get inside! P2 is fun as well.
If she is looking for something harder, but a ton of fun, you can do Easy Overhang set up as a TR, with a 70M rope. Slabby climbing leads to fun juggy, steep corner near the top.
If she is really into and and is liking the exposure and you think she is ready, she might like High Exposure. P2 is the money pitch and it has a very exposed move out on to the face. Easy gym like climbing leads to the top.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Sep 30, 2012, 11:37 PM)
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meanandugly
Sep 30, 2012, 11:41 PM
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Cool, all climbs I am familiar with. She has no problem with exposure and sports high 10's outside. After this she wants some alpine in the Whites this winter.
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gblauer
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Sep 30, 2012, 11:50 PM
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Then put up Nosedive and Retribution. I have seen 10 year olds send both. Can do them on TR once you set them up.
(I am a little over 5 feet, so I am trying to think of climbs that are not reachy for me).
Harder climbs:
Easy Overhang 5.8 Need a 70 to run in 1
City lights (both pitches are fun)
Something Interesting 5.7, very long (combine P1 and P2) and very fun. Can do P3, but, her height might make it hard to get off the ledge. Can link with P3 of Three Pines
Birdland 5.8(in the Nears)
Alphonse 5.8 (in the Nears)
Disneyland 5.6 (favors the shorter climber, in the Nears)
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meanandugly
Oct 1, 2012, 12:00 AM
Post #11 of 17
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My only hope is that I can keep up with her, but her goal is to learn trad, so that will be my saving grace.
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 1, 2012, 12:12 AM
Post #12 of 17
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Reach out to Jeanette...she has been climbing with kids at the gunks for years:
http://cliffmama.com/
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meanandugly
Oct 1, 2012, 12:32 AM
Post #13 of 17
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Thanks again.
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olderic
Oct 1, 2012, 1:51 AM
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gblauer wrote: Easy Overhang 5.8 Need a 70 to run in 1
Son of Easy O. Wish people wouldn't TR but its like tilting at windmills. Guess that describes a lot of the Gunks experience theses days.
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meanandugly
Oct 1, 2012, 7:12 AM
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I don't plan on it.
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meanandugly
Nov 1, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Thanks for everyone's help. She had a great time in spite of the border guards turning us back even though we had all the proper paper work...it took her mother's presence to convince them to let us cross, so that made for a late start. Then a few rain showers slowed us down, but we found a few good spots to boulder...that made her happy. All the trad we did was a few beginings of a few climbs to get her use to cleaning, placing, and building anchors. To top it all off the same border guard who had to be convinced by her mother to allow her to cross with me ordered her mother to go and retrieve her to ensure her safety...worst time every with US Customs.
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gblauer
Moderator
Nov 2, 2012, 3:06 AM
Post #17 of 17
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Glad you had fun. Next time get a Nexus card!
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