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Shoes too agressive?
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nick-nack


Nov 2, 2012, 9:48 AM
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Shoes too agressive?
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I've only been climbing for several months and have been doing so in a pair of Sportive Tarantulas. Although might have bough a size too large .
Not looking to get a new pair of shoes just yet but was recently killing time in one of the very few stores near me that stock climbing shoes and tried on a bunch of Evolvs.

I tried on the Shamans, Primes, Geshido and Pontas II - they all fit very well. The Evolv shoes seem to suit my wide feet more so than other brands. But I was wondering, in particular the Shamans, would buying such an aggressive shoe be doing myself a disfavour? Seeing as how I'm still starting off - and would my next shoe be better being something more moderately aggressive, like the Pontas or Prime?

I've gravitated towards bouldering at my local gym because I'm often without a belay partner and its always nice to chat to the more experienced climbers in that section. But I've been outdoor a few times and have noticed on the steeper climbs my feet don't feel very solid on the tinier holds. But that might also be to do with my technique.

Also looking on the Evolv site - is there a major difference between down turned and down cambered?

Cheers


(This post was edited by nick-nack on Nov 2, 2012, 9:54 AM)


lena_chita
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Nov 2, 2012, 11:30 AM
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Re: [nick-nack] Shoes too agressive? [In reply to]
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nick-nack wrote:
I've only been climbing for several months and have been doing so in a pair of Sportive Tarantulas. Although might have bough a size too large .
Not looking to get a new pair of shoes just yet but was recently killing time in one of the very few stores near me that stock climbing shoes and tried on a bunch of Evolvs.

I tried on the Shamans, Primes, Geshido and Pontas II - they all fit very well. The Evolv shoes seem to suit my wide feet more so than other brands. But I was wondering, in particular the Shamans, would buying such an aggressive shoe be doing myself a disfavour? Seeing as how I'm still starting off - and would my next shoe be better being something more moderately aggressive, like the Pontas or Prime?

I've gravitated towards bouldering at my local gym because I'm often without a belay partner and its always nice to chat to the more experienced climbers in that section. But I've been outdoor a few times and have noticed on the steeper climbs my feet don't feel very solid on the tinier holds. But that might also be to do with my technique.

Also looking on the Evolv site - is there a major difference between down turned and down cambered?

Cheers
I am assuming you are talking about this description:
http://www.evolvsports.com/...ucts/sizing-and-fit/

The difference between terms "down-turned" and "down-cambered", as used on the above website, is pretty obvious in the profile pictures. Down-turned refers only to the toes pointing down. Down-cambered also has a bend in mid-sole. The difference is, very simplistically, between keeping your foot flat with curling your toes down, vs. pointing the foot AND curling to toes down. Many people use the terms interchangeably in everyday climber-talk.

As far as shoes being " too aggressive"-- it really depends. If you are bouldering indoors on a regular basis, you are likely climbing a lot of steep walls and will likely gravitate towards some kind of downturned/cambered shoes. but only YOU can know whether the shoes are right for you, or not. And the only way to know is to try them.

Since you are saying that you are not yet planning to get a new pair of shoes immediately, I would suggest that you keep your eyes and ears opened. A lot of times at major competitions, or at outdoor climbing events/fest, such as Rocktoberfest at the Red, New River Rendezvous, Red Rocks Rendezvous, etc. there will be shoe demos. During the shoe demos, you can borrow a model you are interested in for a day, and go climbing in it.


nick-nack


Nov 2, 2012, 10:11 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Shoes too agressive? [In reply to]
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Thanks for the response. As far as down turned toe and down cambered I phrased it a bit vaguely - I was meant to ask is there a difference in performance between the two? From just looking at it the down turned toe looks to be more aggressive.

And thanks for the tip about shoe demos - got to keep my eye out for those!


lena_chita
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Nov 5, 2012, 8:13 AM
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Re: [nick-nack] Shoes too agressive? [In reply to]
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nick-nack wrote:
Thanks for the response. As far as down turned toe and down cambered I phrased it a bit vaguely - I was meant to ask is there a difference in performance between the two? From just looking at it the down turned toe looks to be more aggressive.

"Aggressive" is a very imprecise term. There is no agressio-meter to rate the shoes against some scale. There is no scale that says " this much downturn for this grade of climbing". It all depends. Theoretically down-cambered/down-turned shoe would be more aggressive than just a down-turned toe shoe, because they harness the power of your entire foot, instead of just the toes, you have your foot bent like a talon.

But I know people who simply cannot wear them because their feet cramp as soon as they put them on. And you are pretty much guaranteed to need another shoe for more vertical climbs if you go the extreme mode.

it all comes back to try it and see for yourself.


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