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Open handed crimping?
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corrado33


Nov 4, 2012, 8:08 PM
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Open handed crimping?
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I just started to work on my open handed crimps (because I'm terrible at them), and I've realized that I can't get a full "open hand" if I use my pinky. I have to bend my other 3 fingers to make my pinky connect.

Is this normal? Is my pinky abnormally small?

Am I looking at openhanded crimping correctly? Outdoors it's easier cause the holds aren't perfectly straight but if I'm hangboarding, I find it really hard to get my little finger on there. For reference, my pinky is barely taller than the... I guess.. middle knuckle on my middle finger and a good inch+ smaller than my ring finger. Cue everyone looking at their fingers. (I have long fingers apparently.)


rocknice2


Nov 4, 2012, 8:19 PM
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Re: [corrado33] Open handed crimping? [In reply to]
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I'm just the opposite, I climb everything open hand 'cause I suck at crimping.
Yes you need to bend the taller fingers to get the pinky on the hold. You can just power off 3 fingers too and keep an even more open hand.


corrado33


Nov 4, 2012, 8:31 PM
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Re: [rocknice2] Open handed crimping? [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:
I'm just the opposite, I climb everything open hand 'cause I suck at crimping.
Yes you need to bend the taller fingers to get the pinky on the hold. You can just power off 3 fingers too and keep an even more open hand.

I'm MUCH more powerful off of my three fingers than if I try to bring my pinky up. And I have more stamina as well (well, measured by length of dead hangs at least.)


flesh


Nov 4, 2012, 10:16 PM
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Re: [corrado33] Open handed crimping? [In reply to]
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When I open hand crimp holds with my pinky on, My middle finger is at a right angle, my pinky and pointer are totally open and my ring finger is in between totally open and a right angle, or an obtuse angle. Every hand is different.

My buddy cannot keep his pointer from going into a right angle if he keeps his pinky on.

On edges and when training, just say as open as possible. If your hand is like my friends, you'll have to get some slopers for you hangboard in order to keep your pinky on and have all finger totally open.


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