Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All


lena_chita
Moderator

Nov 6, 2012, 8:42 AM
Post #51 of 58 (1508 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5750

Re: [camhead] FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

camhead wrote:
zxcvbnm wrote:
Is that a normal 5'11.5, or 5'11.5 first thing in the morning standing as straight as you can, craning your neck and rounding up. All after vigorous stretching of course?Wink

Doesn't 178cm come out to 5'10, Camhead? Assuming 2.54cm/inch.

Whoa yeah it does. About 5.8 feet, which is around 5'10". I was definitely towering over him that day, though :)

Well, as we know, height estimations are rather inaccurate. I am still chuckling fondly about the lady who thought i was 5'7". She wasn't standing very far away from me, either, when she made that statement.


camhead


Nov 6, 2012, 9:07 AM
Post #52 of 58 (1499 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20760

Re: [lena_chita] FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
zxcvbnm wrote:
Is that a normal 5'11.5, or 5'11.5 first thing in the morning standing as straight as you can, craning your neck and rounding up. All after vigorous stretching of course?Wink

Doesn't 178cm come out to 5'10, Camhead? Assuming 2.54cm/inch.

Whoa yeah it does. About 5.8 feet, which is around 5'10". I was definitely towering over him that day, though :)

Well, as we know, height estimations are rather inaccurate. I am still chuckling fondly about the lady who thought i was 5'7". She wasn't standing very far away from me, either, when she made that statement.

Damn, I think I stand corrected. Here's the final proof:



This is the first time that I have been wrong, ever.


flesh


Nov 6, 2012, 10:36 AM
Post #53 of 58 (1481 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 418

Re: [camhead] FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dave could be 5 11. He's definately light, which was my main point. I think it's more likely someone would say they way more than they do for two reasons. One, If your a 5 11 guy do you want to say you weight 135? Two, I think it's common for people to weigh themselves during the day with some clothes on which usually add a few pounds. My 6 1 buddy has been telling me he weighs 170 to 175 for years now. It's with clothes. He got on my scale the other day and was 168.

I think shorter fingers makes a big diff on edges as well also the articulation of your hand when in the crimp position.


csproul


Nov 6, 2012, 10:51 AM
Post #54 of 58 (1472 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [flesh] FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flesh wrote:
Dave could be 5 11. He's definately light, which was my main point. I think it's more likely someone would say they way more than they do for two reasons. One, If your a 5 11 guy do you want to say you weight 135? Two, I think it's common for people to weigh themselves during the day with some clothes on which usually add a few pounds. My 6 1 buddy has been telling me he weighs 170 to 175 for years now. It's with clothes. He got on my scale the other day and was 168.

I think shorter fingers makes a big diff on edges as well also the articulation of your hand when in the crimp position.
Uhhh....what was he doing on your scale naked?


guangzhou


Nov 6, 2012, 6:44 PM
Post #55 of 58 (1434 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [camhead] FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
zxcvbnm wrote:
Is that a normal 5'11.5, or 5'11.5 first thing in the morning standing as straight as you can, craning your neck and rounding up. All after vigorous stretching of course?Wink

Doesn't 178cm come out to 5'10, Camhead? Assuming 2.54cm/inch.

Whoa yeah it does. About 5.8 feet, which is around 5'10". I was definitely towering over him that day, though :)

Well, as we know, height estimations are rather inaccurate. I am still chuckling fondly about the lady who thought i was 5'7". She wasn't standing very far away from me, either, when she made that statement.

Damn, I think I stand corrected. Here's the final proof:

[image]http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Graham-Harrington-Sharma-08_7008.jpg[/image]

This is the first time that I have been wrong, ever.

It happened to me once.

I thought I was wrong, turn out I was mistaking.


jgill


Nov 10, 2012, 2:21 PM
Post #56 of 58 (1359 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 18, 2002
Posts: 653

Re: [rgold] FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rgold wrote:
The patently false title of the article is Why Women Can't Do Pullups, but the research reported tells us nothing about the issue of gender differences and potentials.

What the study says is that of a small and almost certainly non-random sample of women who couldn't do a pullup, 24% could do a pullup after three months of training. We don't know what would happen with several years of training, we don't know how an analogous group of men would have fared, we don't know how anyone would have done with a different training regimen, we don't know why the trainers were surprised that the percentage wasn't higher, and we don't know why they thought it should have been higher.

I think most men who have worked on a gymnastic strength element will tell you that three months isn't even close to enough time for their mighty testosteronic systems to adapt.

It is certainly difficult to know just how much effect cultural norms have on strength statistics---my suspicion is that for strength-to-weight measures, the differences are primarily cultural rather than physiological. For many purposes, it is misleading to look at average results without considering how much the distributions actually overlap, and whether the spreads are comparable. In this regard, no discussion of the tremendous spread of human abilities is complete without Lillian Wetzel's 26 one-arm pullups (only 13 on the weaker arm), which far exceeds what most men can do on two arms, kipping or not.

In climbing, where a combination of technique and strength is involved, I think it is fair to say that the differences between the genders are nearly indistinguishable, and are only really detectable at the highest ends of achievement. Except for the most elite levels, men and women are basically equal when it comes to climbing, and even at the elite levels the difference is small and not always decisively in favor of the men (think about Lynne Hill's free ascent of the Nose).

As for any correlation between high numbers of pullups and climbing ability, I've never seen or heard a shred of evidence suggesting there is any.


P. D. Willoughby concluded in Super Athletes that Lillian Leitzel performed the equivalent of at most six real one-arm pull-ups. I would concur. Her circus routine consisted of giant swings on a suspended ring, over and over, almost purely dynamics, and her performance in that Pennsylvania gym prior to doing her circus trick was a "warmup" - unquestionably very dynamic pull-ups hanging from a suspended ring. Since then no woman that I have heard of could do more than six real one-armers consecutively and I personally have never seen one do a single one, but I suspect I might find one who does several on Youtube if I searched.

But I am curious if women have held front levers ?? Wink


Partner rgold


Nov 10, 2012, 5:01 PM
Post #57 of 58 (1341 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1801

Re: [jgill] FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes John, I learned about the Willoughby analysis from you. But I'm saying that, allowing everyone whatever body motions she may have employed, her one-arm pullup ability still exceeded what most men can do with two arms. And six one-arm pullups, if that's all it was ever equivalent to, is by itself pretty radical.

And by the way, I haven't read the book, but would be interested to know how Willoughby comes up with strict vs. dynamic pullup equivalences. He seems to be suggesting that appropriate body motions can more than quadruple your pullup numbers, a claim which, to ignorant folks like me, sounds outlandish.

I've heard a number of assertions about women climbers able to do one-arm pullups, and have seen one video in which the woman does on on a boulder problem.

I've seen Lynne Hill do repetitions of pullup-front lever-pullup, but she wasn't holding the levers themselves, just pulling to the position and immediately dropping down again.


jgill


Nov 10, 2012, 7:27 PM
Post #58 of 58 (1331 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 18, 2002
Posts: 653

Re: [rgold] FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
And by the way, I haven't read the book, but would be interested to know how Willoughby comes up with strict vs. dynamic pullup equivalences. He seems to be suggesting that appropriate body motions can more than quadruple your pullup numbers, a claim which, to ignorant folks like me, sounds outlandish.

He did come up with some peculiar assertions, including an equivalence between the number of regular pull-ups a person can do predicting then the number of one-arms that person could do. Seems like he said that if you could do about twenty regulars you could do at least one one-armer. Pretty silly stuff. I think his assessment of Leitzel's performance hinged upon him never having heard of a woman doing more than six in decent form. He mentions some Russian woman named Blanche ??? who was a gymnast and did six, but I've never been able to track her down, and I can't find my copy of Super Athletes. My library is a disaster these days.

I did find a video on Youtube with an Australian woman doing a nice one-armer while practicing a boxing move - you have to see it to believe it! But no female front levers yet*, although I would never rule it out - some of those petit Chinese acrobats look like they could do anything.Cool

*almost: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryc9sofiP44


(This post was edited by jgill on Nov 11, 2012, 9:15 PM)

First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$13.46 (10% off)
$5.85 (10% off)
$13.46 (10% off)
$157.95 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook