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Establishing a new boulder route
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TheOnlyJaces


Nov 7, 2012, 12:41 PM
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Establishing a new boulder route
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Hi !!
I'm currently establishing a lot of new problems super close from where I live.
It's in a big park with a lovely artificial lake (yayyy)

So ya like I said , there's no ''Actual'' route yet.
I've been putting up some problem so far and would like to write a quick and easy to read guide about it since there's a LOT to do. (probably around 30 to 50 problem or so...)

The thing is that I have no idea how to put a proper grade on a problem.

So since I'm about to put up some problems, I'd like to do it properly for other climber to...Here's my questions

-How do you establish the proper V scale grade on a problem. *I climb V5-V6 , I know when it's V0 but other than that it's pretty hard without guessing*

-Since most boulders are pretty small , I established Right-Left then up (or Left-Right then up) routes. Does that make sense if there's no actual way to top without dynos or huge moves ?

-If I can clean all the hold and can read the problem even if I cannot top it , does that make me the author anyways or you really need to climb it before claiming you establish it ?

-I was thinking of quickly cleaning the ground from rocks/leafs/dirt. Should I avoid this or people might appreciate it ?

I thank you in advance for any tips concerning my questions :)
I hope to be able to contribute more and more into climbing for my area...


juststrange


Nov 7, 2012, 3:43 PM
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Re: [TheOnlyJaces] Establishing a new boulder route [In reply to]
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First question - this area is on public land and there are no current access issues, correct? If thats all good then the following-

Answers, in order, as I see them:
- Consensus. Take your best stab at it, get a few friends, and be willing to take input.

-Traversing to a topout is fine if its explained. I've seen boulders that get one grade going L>R and another R>L. If someone bypasses V3 climbing with a V6 dyno, they still did a V3 at the end of the day (Don't get me started on eliminates)

-You can say you found it, but we know there tends to be more glory in the first ascent. If you have a name for it, call it the "Whatever-Project". If the FAist wants to name it something else, so be it. Don't get too hung up on this point

-Please don't go crazy cleaning. Sure, if theres a log with pokey branches right under the crux and you can move it a few feet, sure. Leaves never hurt anyone, and high impact causes access issues. I'd say do the bare minimum to make it reasonably safe. Not sure what its like where you are, but "bad landing" has a different definition everywhere. It's not the gym.

For a good outline for a guide, I recommend Dr. Topo. Self promoting for a moment, Some friends and I just wrote a guide for our local area - Crank Climbing Guide for Rocks State Park MD, available for free on the interwebs. If you'd like, I can drop you a copy of our format to get you started. Just shoot me a message or reply here (or the Facebook)


TheOnlyJaces


Nov 8, 2012, 9:41 AM
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Re: [juststrange] Establishing a new boulder route [In reply to]
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Yes exactly it's a public park where anyone can go walk or swim in the summer period.

Thanks for the infos

I'd be interested in looking at your brief guide for sure.
Hope to hear from you again !!
jc


Partner cracklover


Nov 8, 2012, 11:03 AM
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Re: [juststrange] Establishing a new boulder route [In reply to]
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Excellent post above. Especially:
juststrange wrote:
-Please don't go crazy cleaning. Sure, if theres a log with pokey branches right under the crux and you can move it a few feet, sure. Leaves never hurt anyone, and high impact causes access issues. I'd say do the bare minimum to make it reasonably safe. Not sure what its like where you are, but "bad landing" has a different definition everywhere. It's not the gym.

Just clean the holds you need to do the problem. If you go cleaning dirt and moss and seedlings off every hold, you're going overboard.

GO


TheOnlyJaces


Nov 9, 2012, 8:12 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Establishing a new boulder route [In reply to]
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Thanks for the tips
I'll just move what is in the way of the rock (branches for instance) or things that make the route ''unclimbable''.

Might post some video or photos after this weekend!!!


lonequail


Nov 9, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Re: [TheOnlyJaces] Establishing a new boulder route [In reply to]
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Don't be too concerned about the "right" way of doing it - just do what makes sense. Perhaps the most important (and difficult) part of the guide is how to locate the boulders and problems. Maps may or may not work, and drawings may be better. I recently did a bouldering guide based on maps of the rocks that I developed by hand using Word. The problems are numbered and highlighted on the maps with stars, circles, and etc.

For the route descriptions: Sometimes only a location and brief written description suffice. Topos are likely not too helpful unless the problems are long. Photos with annotations can work well but may not be needed.

TLQ


TheOnlyJaces


Nov 9, 2012, 11:49 AM
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Re: [lonequail] Establishing a new boulder route [In reply to]
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Ya i was planning to do something like that. Thx for the heads up bud


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