Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
Finger to thin hands cracks
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


UpToTheOzone


Nov 11, 2012, 8:44 AM
Post #1 of 7 (2188 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2011
Posts: 50

Finger to thin hands cracks
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've just finished a 2 month climbing trip visiting Devils Tower, Zion, Yosemite, Red Rocks, Owens River Gorge, and Indian Creek. My goal was to work on all techniques from pure face climbing to offwidth and chimneys. I feel that I can lead just about anything, except for the smaller stuff. Finger cracks are my biggest weakness and I always pass up the lead when we encounter one. My feet are mens 12.5 and I have a hard time getting anything but smearing near the crack. I lead the crux of Serenity Crack but was doing pull ups on finger locks. Other than just getting out there and working on them, what kind of techniques do you use if you have large shoes that cannot get into the crack. I've found liebacking to be way to strenuous on a steep 5.10 crack


marc801


Nov 11, 2012, 2:22 PM
Post #2 of 7 (2129 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2729

Re: [UpToTheOzone] Finger to thin hands cracks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

UpToTheOzone wrote:
My feet are mens 12.5 and I have a hard time getting anything but smearing near the crack. I lead the crux of Serenity Crack but was doing pull ups on finger locks.
Um, that precisely is the 10d crux bulge of Serenity - I don't think shoe size matters on that one. The reality is, on thin cracks, about the only thing you have to work with is the edge of the crack - but you're not going to get your toes in there. I can't even get my size 10 toes in on the ring-lock 10c crux of Lunatic Fringe. Same thing on the 11a tips of Mr. Natural.


edge


Nov 11, 2012, 3:09 PM
Post #3 of 7 (2119 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9091

Re: [marc801] Finger to thin hands cracks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

marc801 wrote:
UpToTheOzone wrote:
My feet are mens 12.5 and I have a hard time getting anything but smearing near the crack. I lead the crux of Serenity Crack but was doing pull ups on finger locks.
Um, that precisely is the 10d crux bulge of Serenity - I don't think shoe size matters on that one. The reality is, on thin cracks, about the only thing you have to work with is the edge of the crack - but you're not going to get your toes in there. I can't even get my size 10 toes in on the ring-lock 10c crux of Lunatic Fringe. Same thing on the 11a tips of Mr. Natural.

I agree with Marc801; I have done all of those routes as well (in Fires!), and my feet are Eu 47 (12.5/13).

What I often find useful is to bend your knee out frog-style so that the inside edge of your foot is parallel to the crack, toes pointing down. Then smear/wedge/place the rubber edge under your big toe into the crack as much as possible. It's not always possible, depending on the crack, but it's a handy technique to have in your repertoire.


avalon420


Nov 11, 2012, 3:48 PM
Post #4 of 7 (2110 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 28, 2005
Posts: 281

Re: [edge] Finger to thin hands cracks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Amen !
*Edit* size 9 U.S.


(This post was edited by avalon420 on Nov 11, 2012, 4:10 PM)


guangzhou


Nov 11, 2012, 5:51 PM
Post #5 of 7 (2072 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [avalon420] Finger to thin hands cracks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Wow, I thought is was just me who couldn't get his feet in small finger cracks.

Ah, Fire, loved mine for along long long time. Switch to Macasim now.


bearbreeder


Nov 11, 2012, 7:10 PM
Post #6 of 7 (2054 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [UpToTheOzone] Finger to thin hands cracks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

http://vimeo.com/40346006


UpToTheOzone


Nov 11, 2012, 7:44 PM
Post #7 of 7 (2041 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2011
Posts: 50

Re: [marc801] Finger to thin hands cracks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

marc801 wrote:
UpToTheOzone wrote:
My feet are mens 12.5 and I have a hard time getting anything but smearing near the crack. I lead the crux of Serenity Crack but was doing pull ups on finger locks.
Um, that precisely is the 10d crux bulge of Serenity - I don't think shoe size matters on that one. The reality is, on thin cracks, about the only thing you have to work with is the edge of the crack - but you're not going to get your toes in there. I can't even get my size 10 toes in on the ring-lock 10c crux of Lunatic Fringe. Same thing on the 11a tips of Mr. Natural.

Ya i struggled on lunatic fringe as well


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook