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UpToTheOzone
Nov 11, 2012, 4:44 PM
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I've just finished a 2 month climbing trip visiting Devils Tower, Zion, Yosemite, Red Rocks, Owens River Gorge, and Indian Creek. My goal was to work on all techniques from pure face climbing to offwidth and chimneys. I feel that I can lead just about anything, except for the smaller stuff. Finger cracks are my biggest weakness and I always pass up the lead when we encounter one. My feet are mens 12.5 and I have a hard time getting anything but smearing near the crack. I lead the crux of Serenity Crack but was doing pull ups on finger locks. Other than just getting out there and working on them, what kind of techniques do you use if you have large shoes that cannot get into the crack. I've found liebacking to be way to strenuous on a steep 5.10 crack
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marc801
Nov 11, 2012, 10:22 PM
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UpToTheOzone wrote: My feet are mens 12.5 and I have a hard time getting anything but smearing near the crack. I lead the crux of Serenity Crack but was doing pull ups on finger locks.
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edge
Nov 11, 2012, 11:09 PM
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marc801 wrote: UpToTheOzone wrote: My feet are mens 12.5 and I have a hard time getting anything but smearing near the crack. I lead the crux of Serenity Crack but was doing pull ups on finger locks. Um, that precisely is the 10d crux bulge of Serenity - I don't think shoe size matters on that one. The reality is, on thin cracks, about the only thing you have to work with is the edge of the crack - but you're not going to get your toes in there. I can't even get my size 10 toes in on the ring-lock 10c crux of Lunatic Fringe. Same thing on the 11a tips of Mr. Natural.
I agree with Marc801; I have done all of those routes as well (in Fires!), and my feet are Eu 47 (12.5/13).
What I often find useful is to bend your knee out frog-style so that the inside edge of your foot is parallel to the crack, toes pointing down. Then smear/wedge/place the rubber edge under your big toe into the crack as much as possible. It's not always possible, depending on the crack, but it's a handy technique to have in your repertoire.
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avalon420
Nov 11, 2012, 11:48 PM
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Amen !
*Edit* size 9 U.S.
(This post was edited by avalon420 on Nov 12, 2012, 12:10 AM)
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guangzhou
Nov 12, 2012, 1:51 AM
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Wow, I thought is was just me who couldn't get his feet in small finger cracks.
Ah, Fire, loved mine for along long long time. Switch to Macasim now.
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UpToTheOzone
Nov 12, 2012, 3:44 AM
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marc801 wrote: UpToTheOzone wrote: My feet are mens 12.5 and I have a hard time getting anything but smearing near the crack. I lead the crux of Serenity Crack but was doing pull ups on finger locks. Um, that precisely is the 10d crux bulge of Serenity - I don't think shoe size matters on that one. The reality is, on thin cracks, about the only thing you have to work with is the edge of the crack - but you're not going to get your toes in there. I can't even get my size 10 toes in on the ring-lock 10c crux of Lunatic Fringe. Same thing on the 11a tips of Mr. Natural.
Ya i struggled on lunatic fringe as well
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