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Finger Pain?
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Fire-17


Nov 12, 2012, 6:17 PM
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Finger Pain?
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Hey guys,

I have started getting into climbing seriously a month and a half ago, hitting the rock wall three times a week for about an hour to an hour and a half (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday). It has been two days since my last climb and my fingers have been having a pain when I bend them and I cannot crack my middle knuckle without there being pain. Since it has only been a little over a month and I have been spreading out my climbing, I couldn’t imagine it being an over training injury.

What do you guys think? I have another climbing session tomorrow and I would hate to miss it but if it is in the best interest of my hands and my future in the sport I’ll take a day off.

Thank you for your help,
Unsure


Wade308


Nov 12, 2012, 6:23 PM
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Re: [Fire-17] Finger Pain? [In reply to]
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If you have doubts about it, take the day off. It's just like any exercise. Your body tells you when to take a break. If you ignore that, that's when you can injure yourself.

Not worth jacking yourself up for. There will be plenty more sessions.


DemolitionRed


Nov 12, 2012, 7:42 PM
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Re: [Fire-17] Finger Pain? [In reply to]
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It sort of comes with the territory. I tend not to get finger pain like you describe anymore but when I did I used to tape my fingers. I personally found that helped support the bands.

I now get what I call 'shiny topped fingers' The very tips of my fingers can become raw and even numb from time to time. It usually happens after a challenging climb and when it occurs I rest for a few days.


Fire-17


Nov 12, 2012, 8:00 PM
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What is the best way to tape my fingers? I have athletic tapw from some old tra
In reply to:
ck/xc injuries


lena_chita
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Nov 12, 2012, 8:29 PM
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Fire-17 wrote:
Hey guys,

I have started getting into climbing seriously a month and a half ago, hitting the rock wall three times a week for about an hour to an hour and a half (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday). It has been two days since my last climb and my fingers have been having a pain when I bend them and I cannot crack my middle knuckle without there being pain. Since it has only been a little over a month and I have been spreading out my climbing, I couldn’t imagine it being an over training injury.

What do you guys think? I have another climbing session tomorrow and I would hate to miss it but if it is in the best interest of my hands and my future in the sport I’ll take a day off.

Thank you for your help,
Unsure


How old are you? Is the pain on the outside/top of your knuckles? Inside the knuckles? On the palm side of the hand? Does it hurt only when you bend your finger, or does it hurt continuously? Does it hurt more when you just wake up, or when you are cold? What kind of pain? Sore? sharp? Dull?

If pain is in more than one finger, it is unlikely to be a popped tendon, especially if you do not recall any movement or even in which you felt/heard a pop. It could be arthritis. it could be pinched nerve. who knows.

And I absolutely would not jump to a conclusion that you need to tape your fingers and continue climbing. Take a break, and go to the doctor for diagnosis. You'll be happier that you did, in the long term.


Fire-17


Nov 12, 2012, 11:50 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Finger Pain? [In reply to]
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Lena Chita,

The pain is mainly on the middle and ring fingers on both of my hands, mainly my right. the middle knuckle hurts when I apply pressure around the knuckle, not a debilitating pain but more of a dull pain when I bend the knuckle. The pain is more focused on my middle finger.

I did feel a pop two weeks ago when I was working at the firehouse (middle right finger), but that pain has since gone away

I am 21 years old


lena_chita
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Nov 13, 2012, 2:57 PM
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Re: [Fire-17] Finger Pain? [In reply to]
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"pop"=bad. You probably did partially tear a tendon, at least in that particular finger.

Multiple fingers hurting - probably overuse and doing too much too soon. I guess arthritis is unlikely at 21yo, unless you have autoimmune conditions.

Gym can be very intense in terms of stressing your fingers, because, unlike climbing outside, you can pack a really high volume of climbing into a short period of time. Slow down.


curt


Nov 14, 2012, 6:29 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] Finger Pain? [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
"pop"=bad. You probably did partially tear a tendon, at least in that particular finger.
low down.

Actually, more likely it's one of the pulleys that is partially torn. In any event, resting it until there is no longer any pain is probably a good idea.

Curt


lena_chita
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Nov 14, 2012, 5:27 PM
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curt wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
"pop"=bad. You probably did partially tear a tendon, at least in that particular finger.
low down.

Actually, more likely it's one of the pulleys that is partially torn. In any event, resting it until there is no longer any pain is probably a good idea.

Curt

You are right, of course. I was thinking that when I wrote tendon.


herites


Nov 14, 2012, 5:47 PM
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Re: [Fire-17] Finger Pain? [In reply to]
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My fingers started to hurt a year ago, only when climbing indoors. I'm 23 y/o so probably not arthritis, as mentioned below by lena_chita. It's just gym climbing is more intense, and your fingers are probably overused. Also, did you gain any weight by chance? My fingers started to hurt more and faster after I got a few pounds (actually, not a few :) )


amarius


Nov 14, 2012, 6:47 PM
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RockAndIce, "Ask Dr J" column has frequently addressed finger pain issue.


Fire-17


Nov 15, 2012, 3:13 AM
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I think it may be one of the pulleys, im surprised that I am starting to have finger pain this early in my climbing career.

could the hand pain be similar to muscle pain when beginning a run program? lactic acid build up? not sure, still deciding if i should power through or go see my sports doc.


Wade308


Nov 15, 2012, 11:07 PM
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Just take a day or 2 off and see if it feels better. If it does climb on, if not see the doc.

Powering through is good way to get yourself 6+ weeks of downtime due to serious injury.


brooklynclimber


Nov 19, 2012, 11:06 PM
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Fire-17 wrote:
I think it may be one of the pulleys, im surprised that I am starting to have finger pain this early in my climbing career.
I managed to injure my fingers only about two months into my climbing career. I took nearly a month off to recuperate and just started climbing again last week. Pulley injuries are common, from what I've been told, since muscles strengthen faster than pulleys. Also, from what I've seen and experienced, new climbers, especially men, use their arms too much at the beginning of their career, rather than their legs, as more experienced climbers do.

I went to my doc, and he confirmed that it was not a tear, and recommended lots of ibuprofin and ice.

My injury was on my left hand's ring finger, just where a ring would sit, on the inside. Felt a small bump which hurt when I gripped and was tender to the touch.


kennoyce


Nov 19, 2012, 11:25 PM
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Fire-17 wrote:
I think it may be one of the pulleys, im surprised that I am starting to have finger pain this early in my climbing career.

could the hand pain be similar to muscle pain when beginning a run program? lactic acid build up? not sure, still deciding if i should power through or go see my sports doc.


The earlier you are in your climbing career, the easier it is to get injured. Your muscles are probably much stronger than your tendons and pullys so it is very easy to injure them until they get stronger. If you did partially tear a pully you should really take at least a couple of months off so that it can heal correctly. As has been said, listen to your body, if it hurts, take some time off.


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