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my anchor sucks I'm gonna die!
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njrox


Nov 15, 2012, 8:05 AM
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my anchor sucks I'm gonna die!
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The other day I saw a pretty horrendous anchor that I was tempted to photograph and post online. I can't even begin to describe this monstrosity...it was like a drunken spider web.

In the spirit of RC.com's harsh criticism I am going to post a pic of a sucky anchor, except I'm going to show one of my own design. I'm sure many of you have them. Hasty anchors made from minimal gear in less than stellar rock with lousy options for placements. Or maybe you have a pic of your very first anchor built from 5 cams and 3 trees for a 20 foot climb.

Show us what you got.


njrox


Nov 15, 2012, 8:16 AM
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Re: [njrox] my anchor sucks I'm gonna die! [In reply to]
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#1 picture - First Trad Anchor. Five Cams and I was still terrified it would blow.

#2 picture - Four bomber Shocked pieces tied to two 20x7mm cordelletes that lead to another 20x7mm cordellete in a few feet of grass before it finally clears the edge and we have a master point. (somebody forgot the static rope)


(This post was edited by njrox on Nov 15, 2012, 10:28 AM)
Attachments: first trad TR anchor.JPG (136 KB)
  IMAG0744.jpg (97.1 KB)


edge


Nov 15, 2012, 8:18 AM
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Re: [njrox] my anchor sucks I'm gonna die! [In reply to]
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Sometimes on Cannon Cliff, you take anything you can get.




njrox


Nov 15, 2012, 8:20 AM
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Re: [edge] my anchor sucks I'm gonna die! [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
Sometimes on Cannon Cliff, you take anything you can get.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/loransmith/Climbing/Shrubbery.jpg[/IMG]

dude...


skiclimb


Nov 15, 2012, 9:00 AM
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Re: [njrox] my anchor sucks I'm gonna die! [In reply to]
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Well I don't have any pics of sucky anchors but here is one I made for a guy who decked this summer.

Overkill even for a rescue anchor but gave me something to do.




petsfed


Nov 15, 2012, 9:29 AM
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Re: [njrox] my anchor sucks I'm gonna die! [In reply to]
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The principle flaw of your anchor is that you've got it all stuffed into the same crack. You've got three pieces that are all very easy to evaluate (orange and green mastercams, purple camalot) so why you decided to toss in two more that aren't as easy to evaluate, in the same crack, is beyond me.

Put another way, you place more than two pieces in an anchor out of concern for possible failure of any given piece. Unless the rock is super dirty, the primary modes of failure are due to geometrically poor placements, or expando cracks. So, provided all of your pieces are well placed, you're only concerned about expando. Now, if the crack is expando enough to make one piece fail, its expando enough to make every piece in that crack fail.

So if you're gonna be paranoid, at least use multiple cracks.


skiclimb


Nov 15, 2012, 9:40 AM
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For use of secondary crack see green cord.

Only! lol four pieces in same crack.

You didn't even mention the weirdest piece of overkill.. cmon man ur slippin


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Nov 15, 2012, 9:45 AM)


njrox


Nov 15, 2012, 10:26 AM
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yes, that is the point my friend...that there was my first trad anchor and it sucked.


petsfed


Nov 15, 2012, 10:59 AM
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njrox wrote:
yes, that is the point my friend...that there was my first trad anchor and it sucked.

As flaws go, that one's not so bad. My point was that you had a pretty good anchor, then wasted a couple extra pieces for illusory additional security.


njrox


Nov 15, 2012, 11:20 AM
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It's cool. That's my sucky anchor. Have a laugh.

FYI - That horizontal crack is well known among NJ climbers (Allamuchy, Main Wall, Unnamed 5.7). Thereís a ledge up there about the size of my desk and thatís the only crack that will take gear. You can scramble another ten-fifteen feet to a different crack to build an anchor that would allow to set directional for other lines nearby. But the 5.7 climb pretty much ends at that ledge. 9 out of 10 times I see people anchoring on the ledge if theyíre just going to do the 5.7 climb.

Oh yeah if I was there today Iíd put in 3 pieces and be happy. That day, I probably would have stuck in a sixth piece if I could. And youíll notice there is red pro cord and a yellow sling. Iím not sure what the master point looked like but Iím sure it was a red and yellow mess.


acorneau


Nov 15, 2012, 5:38 PM
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Cue Majid...


milesenoell


Nov 15, 2012, 9:45 PM
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Re: [edge] my anchor sucks I'm gonna die! [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
Sometimes on Cannon Cliff, you take anything you can get.


So, what do you figure those twigs are rated to?


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Nov 15, 2012, 9:45 PM)


kobaz


Nov 15, 2012, 10:33 PM
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Re: [edge] my anchor sucks I'm gonna die! [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
Sometimes on Cannon Cliff, you take anything you can get.


Is that the end of pitch 3 on Moby Grape? I think I slung the same bush in my anchor. One bush and one cam in a crack in a boulder and that was all you get.

Edited to show image.


(This post was edited by kobaz on Nov 15, 2012, 10:34 PM)


edge


Nov 16, 2012, 8:25 AM
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kobaz wrote:
edge wrote:
Sometimes on Cannon Cliff, you take anything you can get.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/loransmith/Climbing/Shrubbery.jpg[/IMG]

Is that the end of pitch 3 on Moby Grape? I think I slung the same bush in my anchor. One bush and one cam in a crack in a boulder and that was all you get.

Edited to show image.

Nope, Vertigo, one pitch above the Half Moon offwidth. The end of the webbing loop below the picture looked like it had a rope pulled through it.

I am guessing that whoever bailed off it had it backed up by their partner, who trusted the clump after it held the first guy. Those things are surprisingly well rooted and pretty strong at the base...


marc801


Nov 16, 2012, 9:57 AM
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Re: [njrox] my anchor sucks I'm gonna die! [In reply to]
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njrox wrote:
edge wrote:
Sometimes on Cannon Cliff, you take anything you can get.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/loransmith/Climbing/Shrubbery.jpg[/IMG]

dude...
No, njrox, you don't understand. There are lots of times in alpine climbing (and Cannon is much more alpine than crag style climbing) where you either don't have much to work with or all the options are shitty and you get to knit together a bunch of questionable stuff.


bearbreeder


Nov 16, 2012, 11:58 AM
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but but but ... if i dont get in a SERENE cord anchor with a perfect 3 pieces ... im gonna die !!!

Tongue


marc801


Nov 16, 2012, 12:20 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
but but but ... if i dont get in a SERENE cord anchor with a perfect 3 pieces ... im gonna die !!!Tongue
The rap anchor on the top of the Petit Grepon in RMNP is a 5' high tower on the north end of the summit platform. There are several pitons driven in a horizontal crack about 2' below the top, and the whole affair is wrapped/tied-off/looped/both through the eyes and around the tower with an assortment of webbing of various widths, age, and sun-bleaching. Careful examination reveals that the tower is really just a stack of blocks and the topmost one can be lifted off, which would cause the anchor pitons to fall out. You set up your pair of ropes through the master point, think pure thoughts, and gently rappel to the little ledge 55m below that gives access to the start of the descent. It all works as long as you keep your weight pulling down on the anchor slings - not outward and certainly you don't push up on the top block to "test" the anchor.


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