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jomagam


Nov 16, 2012, 6:49 PM
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Questions apropos of the Reel Rock 2012 movie
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Finally saw it today; two random questions:

1. Why are climbers who are great enough to make it into such a movie grab the rope while falling ? I've seen Sharma, Ondra and somebody in a Sterling commercial do that. I always thought that was a newbie thing, just like holding the rope while being lowered.

2. Why are Sharma and Ondra climbing in jeans ? They could have something that's a pound lighter. It's not like they do knee jams. Compare that to cyclists, who obsess over every ounce.


acorneau


Nov 16, 2012, 7:14 PM
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Re: [jomagam] Questions apropos of the Reel Rock 2012 movie [In reply to]
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jomagam wrote:
Finally saw it today; two random questions:

1. Why are climbers who are great enough to make it into such a movie grab the rope while falling ? I've seen Sharma, Ondra and somebody in a Sterling commercial do that. I always thought that was a newbie thing, just like holding the rope while being lowered.

It's just a natural reaction; it also helps to keep the rope form smacking you in the face when it comes taught.


In reply to:
2. Why are Sharma and Ondra climbing in jeans ? They could have something that's a pound lighter. It's not like they do knee jams. Compare that to cyclists, who obsess over every ounce.

Can't help you there. Jeans down here in Texas would be a no-go.


theextremist04


Nov 16, 2012, 8:04 PM
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Re: [jomagam] Questions apropos of the Reel Rock 2012 movie [In reply to]
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jomagam wrote:
Finally saw it today; two random questions:

1. Why are climbers who are great enough to make it into such a movie grab the rope while falling ? I've seen Sharma, Ondra and somebody in a Sterling commercial do that. I always thought that was a newbie thing, just like holding the rope while being lowered.
Better than grabbing the draw when falling.

In reply to:
2. Why are Sharma and Ondra climbing in jeans ? They could have something that's a pound lighter. It's not like they do knee jams. Compare that to cyclists, who obsess over every ounce.
Prana jeans are pretty great to climb in.


jomagam


Nov 16, 2012, 8:21 PM
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theextremist04 wrote:
Prana jeans are pretty great to climb in.

Checked online and a pair of Prana jeans are 1 lb 6 oz. My Prana pants, also long and great to climb in, are 12oz. That's 10 oz difference, which could be easily a pound had they worn shorts. I assume it was warm since they didn't have a shirt on. That's not minor if you weight 130 lbs, like Adam.


bearbreeder


Nov 16, 2012, 9:59 PM
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Re: [jomagam] Questions apropos of the Reel Rock 2012 movie [In reply to]
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because good climbers focus on getting better technique and stronger than all those fancy $$$$$ ways to empty you wallet for an oz or two to try to "improve" your climbing

if they can do the hardest routes in the world in their "heavy" jeans ... theres no reason why we cant do our much more moderate climbs in whatever ...

Tongue


USnavy


Nov 17, 2012, 12:31 AM
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jomagam wrote:
Finally saw it today; two random questions:

1. Why are climbers who are great enough to make it into such a movie grab the rope while falling ?
Because there is a difference between being a professional and being an expert. Climbing 5.15 does not make you an expert, it makes you strong. Sure one could argue it makes you an expert on climbing movement, but it does not make you an expert in all aspects of climbing. There are a number of guys in the Real Rock Film tour that I would not let belay me. I know because I have climbed with some of them. Take a look at the front cover of the new RRG guidebook. It shows Sharma climbing some .14. Take a look at the first quickdraw. It is backclipped... In fact, some of the strongest people I have ever climbed with were complete shit belayers. I climbed with a guy who linked the Nose and the Regular Route on Half Dome in a day and he dident even know how to belay on a sport climb! I kept getting hard ass catches all week from him! I explained how to preform a soft catch to him a number of times and he just dident get it. I guess that is what happens when you try to climb hard sport with a trad climber...


(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 17, 2012, 12:39 AM)


verticon


Nov 17, 2012, 7:30 AM
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that's how they make progress: they climb F9b in heavy jeans, and then they leave the jeans on the ground and climb F9b+ !
Don't you do the same ?!


gunkiemike


Nov 18, 2012, 6:03 AM
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The most remarkable thing in this thread?

That the OP used the word "apropos". Might be the first time that's ever been used in this forum.

As to the jeans question, they wear them for the same reason that boulderers wear beanies and down coats when it's 75 F. To look like badass climbing hipsters. And the sheep flock to the stores to buy the now-requisite apparel. It's not that different from painters' pants and rugby shirts BITD. Splatter-patterned Lycra tights OTOH, were genuinely performance-enhancing Cool.


camhead


Nov 18, 2012, 7:48 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Questions apropos of the Reel Rock 2012 movie [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
jomagam wrote:
Finally saw it today; two random questions:

1. Why are climbers who are great enough to make it into such a movie grab the rope while falling ?
Because there is a difference between being a professional and being an expert. Climbing 5.15 does not make you an expert, it makes you strong. Sure one could argue it makes you an expert on climbing movement, but it does not make you an expert in all aspects of climbing. There are a number of guys in the Real Rock Film tour that I would not let belay me. I know because I have climbed with some of them. Take a look at the front cover of the new RRG guidebook. It shows Sharma climbing some .14. Take a look at the first quickdraw. It is backclipped... In fact, some of the strongest people I have ever climbed with were complete shit belayers. I climbed with a guy who linked the Nose and the Regular Route on Half Dome in a day and he dident even know how to belay on a sport climb! I kept getting hard ass catches all week from him! I explained how to preform a soft catch to him a number of times and he just dident get it. I guess that is what happens when you try to climb hard sport with a trad climber...

Maybe you should offer some sort of seminar, like, "USNavy's Proper Belay Techniques for Pros," where you can teach people like Sharma and Ondra how to REALLY belay.

Here's my take on why they're grabbing the rope: because when you are trying a really hard move that you fall on dozens of times, and getting a soft catch that results in a ten foot fall every time you flub the move, you get sick of yarding back up every time. You grab the rope so that you don't fall as far. This would be especially true for Sharma, who probably outweighs his belayer Dalia by 40-50 lbs.

And what are the reasons for NOT grabbing the rope? Because it can injure your shoulder when you take essentially a static fall onto yourself. However, it is possible to grab a rope and fall onto it dynamically, using your bicep as a screamer; just the same way you do when you fall back onto a hold after missing a deadpoint, or when your feet slip and you're in a bomber, sharp finger lock. I think that 5.15 climbers are probably going to know how to do this, and not injure themselves by grabbing the rope as they fall.

As for jeans... no clue. They're probably just invoking the spirit of Ron Kauk.


(This post was edited by camhead on Nov 18, 2012, 7:50 AM)


drivel


Nov 18, 2012, 8:43 AM
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camhead wrote:
USnavy wrote:
jomagam wrote:
Finally saw it today; two random questions:

1. Why are climbers who are great enough to make it into such a movie grab the rope while falling ?
Because there is a difference between being a professional and being an expert. Climbing 5.15 does not make you an expert, it makes you strong. Sure one could argue it makes you an expert on climbing movement, but it does not make you an expert in all aspects of climbing. There are a number of guys in the Real Rock Film tour that I would not let belay me. I know because I have climbed with some of them. Take a look at the front cover of the new RRG guidebook. It shows Sharma climbing some .14. Take a look at the first quickdraw. It is backclipped... In fact, some of the strongest people I have ever climbed with were complete shit belayers. I climbed with a guy who linked the Nose and the Regular Route on Half Dome in a day and he dident even know how to belay on a sport climb! I kept getting hard ass catches all week from him! I explained how to preform a soft catch to him a number of times and he just dident get it. I guess that is what happens when you try to climb hard sport with a trad climber...

Maybe you should offer some sort of seminar, like, "USNavy's Proper Belay Techniques for Pros," where you can teach people like Sharma and Ondra how to REALLY belay.

Here's my take on why they're grabbing the rope: because when you are trying a really hard move that you fall on dozens of times, and getting a soft catch that results in a ten foot fall every time you flub the move, you get sick of yarding back up every time. You grab the rope so that you don't fall as far. This would be especially true for Sharma, who probably outweighs his belayer Dalia by 40-50 lbs.

And what are the reasons for NOT grabbing the rope? Because it can injure your shoulder when you take essentially a static fall onto yourself. However, it is possible to grab a rope and fall onto it dynamically, using your bicep as a screamer; just the same way you do when you fall back onto a hold after missing a deadpoint, or when your feet slip and you're in a bomber, sharp finger lock. I think that 5.15 climbers are probably going to know how to do this, and not injure themselves by grabbing the rope as they fall.

As for jeans... no clue. They're probably just invoking the spirit of Ron Kauk.


you're an idiot, and you're going to wreck your shoulder.


crackmeup


Nov 18, 2012, 9:27 AM
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I wear jeans every day by default (including when I climb) unless it's too hot. In that case I wear shorts. I find jeans very comfortable when climbing in cold weather. An added bonus is that I don't need to stop by the locker room to change when I go to the gym.

Jeans are good at protecting your skin when doing heel hooks, knee bars or other moves that require lots of leg contact with the rock.

As for the added weight, it's just noise. Same as the water you just drank, the sandwich you haven't pooped yet, rope drag, etc.


marc801


Nov 18, 2012, 10:20 AM
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jomagam wrote:
2. Why are Sharma and Ondra climbing in jeans ? They could have something that's a pound lighter. It's not like they do knee jams. Compare that to cyclists, who obsess over every ounce.
Maybe 'cause rock climbers don't obsess over every ounce?


Partner devkrev


Nov 18, 2012, 10:56 AM
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jomagam wrote:
2. Why are Sharma and Ondra climbing in jeans ? They could have something that's a pound lighter. It's not like they do knee jams. Compare that to cyclists, who obsess over every ounce.

Isn't there a dress code in Europe for climbing areas? Don't you have to wear jeans? Isn't that why Dani Andrada always wears them, right?

I thought it was like a jacket/tie fancy restaurant thing.


jomagam


Nov 18, 2012, 11:23 AM
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marc801 wrote:
Maybe 'cause rock climbers don't obsess over every ounce?

I'd argue that obsessing over ounces when you're a weekend rider is foolish just like not caring about weighing 1% less when you're a world class climber.


jomagam


Nov 18, 2012, 11:40 AM
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gunkiemike wrote:
The most remarkable thing in this thread?

That the OP used the word "apropos". Might be the first time that's ever been used in this forum.


Search apropos site:rockclimbing.com on Google. 1720 hits :-)


bearbreeder


Nov 18, 2012, 12:41 PM
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jomagam wrote:
I'd argue that obsessing over ounces when you're a weekend rider is foolish just like not caring about weighing 1% less when you're a world class climber.

well when yr a world class climber, you can go climb la dura dura in yr g string and show those gumbies ondra and sharma how its done ... and how a few oz will allow you to send 9b

till then ... Tongue


marc801


Nov 18, 2012, 2:29 PM
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jomagam wrote:
I'd argue that obsessing over ounces when you're a weekend rider is foolish just like not caring about weighing 1% less when you're a world class climber.
Maybe being a world class climber means that you can ignore the quest to weigh 1% less.
Dude, let it go. Obsessing over world class climbers climbing in jeans is pointless.


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