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Problem setting
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albrizz


Nov 10, 2012, 1:33 AM
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Problem setting
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I'm (hopefully) going to start setting boulders at my local gym soon and I was just wondering if anyone knew of any good resources/tips. As it is I'm just going off my own experience and boulder comp videos online.


(This post was edited by albrizz on Nov 10, 2012, 1:34 AM)


TheOnlyJaces


Nov 15, 2012, 9:39 AM
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Re: [albrizz] Problem setting [In reply to]
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I'll would like to start setting here and there to.

If you have reach that 'level' of being able to set a problem, I do believe you wont need much info. Especially for boulders since you dont have to worry about the quickdraws/rope positions and such.

I would personnaly attempt a V1-V2 at first to get the hang of it then I'll try to 'copy' one of my problem outside to practice inside.

Wish you the best bud
jc


olderic


Nov 15, 2012, 9:49 AM
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http://www.routesetter.com/


djlachelt


Nov 18, 2012, 9:58 PM
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That site used to be great, but something happened to it. Its content got reset to sometime in 2010 and there is no longer a way to post to it.


acorneau


Nov 19, 2012, 5:17 AM
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Re: [djlachelt] Problem setting [In reply to]
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The forum was inundated with spammers so they "temporarily" shut it down. Most of the regulars now use the Routesetters Anonymous group on Facebook.

I sure wish they would get the old forum back up and running again.

Edit to add: you can also get Louie Anderson's book "The Art of Coursesetting".


(This post was edited by acorneau on Nov 19, 2012, 5:24 AM)


colatownkid


Nov 19, 2012, 1:20 PM
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Re: [albrizz] Problem setting [In reply to]
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albrizz wrote:
I'm (hopefully) going to start setting boulders at my local gym soon and I was just wondering if anyone knew of any good resources/tips. As it is I'm just going off my own experience and boulder comp videos online.

The resources above will be helpful.

Also, a few tips:
1) Don't neglect the footholds.
2) When first starting to set, don't set harder than you can actually climb (ie. if you can't complete it in a few tries).
3) If you're tall, follow the "elbow" rule for long moves; that is, don't set moves with a wingspan larger than the distance from your finger tips to the opposite elbow. Otherwise, shorter folks will find moves to be too reachy or nearly impossible.
4) Set interesting movement in the lower grades. V0s and V1s (in my opinion) tend to be neglected. The hold used can control the difficulty of a climb, but shouldn't necessarily dictate the movement. In other words, you could set and interesting gaston using a jug or a sloper. The jug will result in an easier problem, the sloper a harder one. Both will be interesting to climbers at the respective levels.


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