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Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks
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Gmburns2000


Oct 6, 2010, 8:04 AM
Post #126 of 134 (2511 views)
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks [In reply to]
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boymeetsrock wrote:
MS1 wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
jt512 wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I can't decide if this site would be more or less interesting without a bunch of pussies whining about Jay all the time. Christ people, what happened to the good old days when climbers used to just tell each other to fuck off and it was all good?

fuck off

jt512 wrote:
So, please, just shut the fuck up


That's what I'm talkin bout!

I do what I can.

Fuck you.

At a time like this, it is well worth revisiting the classics: http://www.youtube.com/...ature=related#t=1m4s

Yes, Cool fuck you too ! ** waves good day**

can't forget this classic either


AntinJ


Oct 6, 2010, 11:36 AM
Post #127 of 134 (2484 views)
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Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks [In reply to]
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It's funny how it's easy to draw parallels when events occur:



Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1995. Vol. 48. Golden, Colo. : Banff: American Alpine Club, Alpine Club of Canada., 1994. Print.


iknowfear


Sep 30, 2012, 1:41 PM
Post #128 of 134 (2193 views)
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Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 640

Re: [redlude97] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks [In reply to]
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redlude97 wrote:
Saw this at RRC.com, biner with deep groove cuts a rope after a lead fall at the first bolt.
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/...php?f=21&t=13270

there has been a fatality in switzerland which was likely due to a sharp-edged fixed biner that cut the rope after a fall (this is preliminary, the official report is not out yet).

in german:
http://mdettling.blogspot.ch/...aber-gefahrlich.html

(note to add:
- the biner in the picture is one of a ground fall in a Prague climbing hall, and not from this climb
- the severed rope is from the Black Diamond tests)


climb2core


Nov 16, 2012, 5:12 AM
Post #129 of 134 (1874 views)
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Re: [redlude97] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks [In reply to]
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We are starting an initiative to reduce mank gear in the Red. Please check out our FB page at if you ever climb at the Red River Gorge:

https://www.facebook.com/RrgFixedGearEthicsInitiative


ilikepargo


Nov 20, 2012, 9:51 AM
Post #130 of 134 (1709 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2008
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Re: [iron106] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks [In reply to]
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iron106 wrote:
I don't think the groove was actually that bad. I think the only problem was the sharpness of the groove. Worn biners are usually stronger than new ones.
Yup. I also find that my rope is stronger if I cut it halfway through before I climb. I also cut halfway through my harness and through the dogbones on all my quickdraws. Then, just before I climb, I usually take a big rock and crack my own head with it a couple of times, so that I'm halfway to a really good concussion. That makes me a better, smarter climber. Crazy


shotwell


Nov 20, 2012, 10:24 AM
Post #131 of 134 (1688 views)
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Re: [ilikepargo] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks [In reply to]
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ilikepargo wrote:
iron106 wrote:
I don't think the groove was actually that bad. I think the only problem was the sharpness of the groove. Worn biners are usually stronger than new ones.
Yup. I also find that my rope is stronger if I cut it halfway through before I climb. I also cut halfway through my harness and through the dogbones on all my quickdraws. Then, just before I climb, I usually take a big rock and crack my own head with it a couple of times, so that I'm halfway to a really good concussion. That makes me a better, smarter climber. Crazy

Have you read the relevant Black Diamond article? Pretty sure it suggests that a moderate rope groove actually does result in a biner that pull tests slightly above a new biner. Pretty sure this is simply because the rope groove keeps the rope aligned with the spine. This may be wrong; I haven't read the article in a couple of years.

That being said, worn carabiners are a real problem. Clearly not something to mess around with and should be retired because they can be quite sharp. I keep one sharp enough to cut me on my pack to remind me of this. It was the lone lower off point for a sport route.


mojomonkey


Nov 20, 2012, 10:26 AM
Post #132 of 134 (1687 views)
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Re: [ilikepargo] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks [In reply to]
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ilikepargo wrote:
iron106 wrote:
I don't think the groove was actually that bad. I think the only problem was the sharpness of the groove. Worn biners are usually stronger than new ones.
Yup. I also find that my rope is stronger if I cut it halfway through before I climb. I also cut halfway through my harness and through the dogbones on all my quickdraws. Then, just before I climb, I usually take a big rock and crack my own head with it a couple of times, so that I'm halfway to a really good concussion. That makes me a better, smarter climber. Crazy

Do you realize you are jumping in on a point that was sorted out a few posts below the one you quoted, just over two years ago. Maybe ease up on the rocks to the head?


iknowfear


Nov 20, 2012, 12:25 PM
Post #133 of 134 (1654 views)
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Posts: 640

Re: [mojomonkey] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks [In reply to]
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Mammut made some more tests:
https://d1qxh2iwg385ci.cloudfront.net/...tigeKarabiner_EN.pdf

Mammut wrote:
"Mammut is urgently calling for the immediate discontinuation of use and removal of
permanently installed quick draws and carabiners in climbing areas"


(This post was edited by iknowfear on Nov 20, 2012, 12:26 PM)


ilikepargo


Nov 20, 2012, 4:34 PM
Post #134 of 134 (1613 views)
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Re: [mojomonkey] Rope severed by worn carabiner at RRG, climber decks [In reply to]
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mojomonkey wrote:
ilikepargo wrote:
iron106 wrote:
I don't think the groove was actually that bad. I think the only problem was the sharpness of the groove. Worn biners are usually stronger than new ones.
Yup. I also find that my rope is stronger if I cut it halfway through before I climb. I also cut halfway through my harness and through the dogbones on all my quickdraws. Then, just before I climb, I usually take a big rock and crack my own head with it a couple of times, so that I'm halfway to a really good concussion. That makes me a better, smarter climber. Crazy

Do you realize you are jumping in on a point that was sorted out a few posts below the one you quoted, just over two years ago. Maybe ease up on the rocks to the head?

Yes, I realize that. I was having a bit of fun at the expense of an absurd and pointless comment. You've heard of fun, right?

(Beyond the semantic issue of what is/isn't "strong", the incident was not caused by the 'biner being weak. It was caused by the 'biner being sharp.)

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