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JasonsDrivingForce


Nov 20, 2012, 11:28 AM
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What is this move called?
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I couldn't believe the move this woman does at 1:24 in this video. However, I have no idea what it would be called.

http://www.youtube.com/...yer_detailpage#t=82s


(This post was edited by JasonsDrivingForce on Nov 20, 2012, 11:28 AM)


LostinMaine


Nov 20, 2012, 11:34 AM
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Re: [JasonsDrivingForce] What is this move called? [In reply to]
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sick.


marc801


Nov 20, 2012, 12:04 PM
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote:
I couldn't believe the move this woman does at 1:24 in this video. However, I have no idea what it would be called.

http://www.youtube.com/...yer_detailpage#t=82s
Holy shit.
I was expecting a rose or figure 4 or something...anything...other than that bizarre move she pulls off. In 40 yrs of climbing I've never seen anything like that.


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Nov 20, 2012, 12:08 PM
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Re: [marc801] What is this move called? [In reply to]
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Perspective.


The move your watching is incredible-looking due to the perspective you are seeing it from. See, the route we're watching in the movie is overhanging, as noted by the droop angle of the chalkbag on the climber, the draws on the wall. The person with their smartphone is likely right under the climber, who, is in a roof section.

Where we see the move as being incredible and unlikely she's just turning her body around to holds on the other side of the wall.

Impressive, yes, but not super-human or out of this world. It's perspective...


iknowfear


Nov 20, 2012, 12:29 PM
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote:
I couldn't believe the move this woman does at 1:24 in this video. However, I have no idea what it would be called.

http://www.youtube.com/...yer_detailpage#t=82s

I propose "the helicopter" or "chopper"


JasonsDrivingForce


Nov 20, 2012, 1:21 PM
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Re: [epoch] What is this move called? [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
Perspective.


The move your watching is incredible-looking due to the perspective you are seeing it from. See, the route we're watching in the movie is overhanging, as noted by the droop angle of the chalkbag on the climber, the draws on the wall. The person with their smartphone is likely right under the climber, who, is in a roof section.

Where we see the move as being incredible and unlikely she's just turning her body around to holds on the other side of the wall.

Impressive, yes, but not super-human or out of this world. It's perspective...

I see what you are saying. It is more of a flat spin than a windmill. However, her feet end up above her head. It still looks pretty freaking cool to me.


camhead


Nov 20, 2012, 1:25 PM
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It's a variation of what the "Mission Impossible" move (at 1:45 in the linked video), in which you do such a severe crossover that your body winds up facing outward from the wall. The only difference is that she then swings her feet way high after it. Really cool. They're hard moves to set.




shotwell


Nov 20, 2012, 1:45 PM
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camhead wrote:
They're hard moves to set.

So glad you chose a picture of Akira to go with this post. Really hoping it was intentional.


camhead


Nov 20, 2012, 1:56 PM
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shotwell wrote:
camhead wrote:
They're hard moves to set.

So glad you chose a picture of Akira to go with this post. Really hoping it was intentional.

Intentional, yes. Akira, no.


shotwell


Nov 20, 2012, 2:06 PM
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Re: [camhead] What is this move called? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
shotwell wrote:
camhead wrote:
They're hard moves to set.

So glad you chose a picture of Akira to go with this post. Really hoping it was intentional.

Intentional, yes. Akira, no.

Oh? Which Rouhling route is this?

EDIT: Never mind, I found it. L’autre Côté du Ciel. Pretty creative manufacturing, all told.


(This post was edited by shotwell on Nov 20, 2012, 2:15 PM)


gunkiemike


Nov 20, 2012, 2:13 PM
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Two thoughts watching the video:

I strongly suspect she knew that move was the way to go there (as opposed to tossing into it onsite).

She chalked up ELEVEN TIMES before doing that move.


acorneau


Nov 20, 2012, 5:40 PM
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Seemed rather "set up" to me.

My guess is she has practiced that kind of move a bunch of times -AND- the setter(s) set that sequence specifically to see if someone (perhaps Nikki in particular) would spot it and do the moves as requested. (Setters love to set "show-y" moves for comps, especially finals.)


dan2see


Nov 20, 2012, 9:24 PM
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote:
I couldn't believe the move this woman does at 1:24 in this video. However, I have no idea what it would be called.

It's called Dipping and Flipping and Clipping. Then Slipping.


PJ002


Nov 21, 2012, 6:28 AM
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote:
I couldn't believe the move this woman does at 1:24 in this video. However, I have no idea what it would be called.

http://www.youtube.com/...yer_detailpage#t=82s

"Clockwise swirl" (although some purists would argue it's better to close with a pinch at the end)..... ;)


I_do


Nov 21, 2012, 6:45 AM
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acorneau wrote:
Seemed rather "set up" to me.

My guess is she has practiced that kind of move a bunch of times -AND- the setter(s) set that sequence specifically to see if someone (perhaps Nikki in particular) would spot it and do the moves as requested. (Setters love to set "show-y" moves for comps, especially finals.)

This is in the finals of the dutch climbing championchips. Why the hell would she have practiced moves like that. Have you?

edit to add, I am pretty sure it was set intentionally. And Nikki is usually so much stronger then the rest that if you set something hard or weird it is probably for her :)


(This post was edited by I_do on Nov 21, 2012, 6:59 AM)


I_do


Nov 21, 2012, 6:52 AM
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote:
epoch wrote:
Perspective.


The move your watching is incredible-looking due to the perspective you are seeing it from. See, the route we're watching in the movie is overhanging, as noted by the droop angle of the chalkbag on the climber, the draws on the wall. The person with their smartphone is likely right under the climber, who, is in a roof section.

Where we see the move as being incredible and unlikely she's just turning her body around to holds on the other side of the wall.

Impressive, yes, but not super-human or out of this world. It's perspective...

I see what you are saying. It is more of a flat spin than a windmill. However, her feet end up above her head. It still looks pretty freaking cool to me.

The feet are actually lower then her hands. It's just weird perspective.


acorneau


Nov 21, 2012, 6:58 AM
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I_do wrote:
This is in the finals of the dutch climbing championchips. Why the hell would she have practiced moves like that. Have you?

Some people practice Rose moves, figure-fours, and other "trick" moves so they can use them when they see a situation where they would be beneficial. Nothing wrong with that.

However, I don't think the move in the video was as spontaneously conceived by Nikki as some might think.


I_do


Nov 21, 2012, 7:07 AM
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acorneau wrote:
I_do wrote:
This is in the finals of the dutch climbing championchips. Why the hell would she have practiced moves like that. Have you?

Some people practice Rose moves, figure-fours, and other "trick" moves so they can use them when they see a situation where they would be beneficial. Nothing wrong with that.

However, I don't think the move in the video was as spontaneously conceived by Nikki as some might think.

There's certainly nothing wrong with practising weird moves for fun! But it is an on-sight competition, so I would be very surprised if it was not made up on the spot by her. But I'll ask around next time I'm at the gym (where this comp took place).


saint_john


Nov 21, 2012, 12:17 PM
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote:
I couldn't believe the move this woman does at 1:24 in this video. However, I have no idea what it would be called.

http://www.youtube.com/...yer_detailpage#t=82s

That's called a "dumb choregraphed indoor comp move"


milesenoell


Nov 21, 2012, 1:43 PM
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gunkiemike wrote:

She chalked up ELEVEN TIMES before doing that move.

Chalk: the little white bag of courage.


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Nov 21, 2012, 4:19 PM
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milesenoell wrote:
Chalk: the little white bag of courage.


I like the one I came up with: Chalk - The Other White Powder"


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Nov 21, 2012, 4:44 PM
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happiegrrrl wrote:
milesenoell wrote:
Chalk: the little white bag of courage.


I like the one I came up with: Chalk - The Other White Powder"

Quit trying to hijack the thread... Unimpressed


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Nov 21, 2012, 4:51 PM
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Re: [epoch] What is this move called? [In reply to]
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WTF?

Wouldn't tryING be referred to as a multiple occasion thing? I make one post, in response directly to something someone else said and you accuse me of hijacking a thread?

Okay...regarding the name of that move Maybe it's called the "Up Yours...." Seriously. If the move is one that's going to get a name so people can shout out beta, why not have them be shouting "Doooood...Up YOURS!"Angelic


lena_chita
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Nov 25, 2012, 8:30 AM
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I_do wrote:
acorneau wrote:
I_do wrote:
This is in the finals of the dutch climbing championchips. Why the hell would she have practiced moves like that. Have you?

Some people practice Rose moves, figure-fours, and other "trick" moves so they can use them when they see a situation where they would be beneficial. Nothing wrong with that.

However, I don't think the move in the video was as spontaneously conceived by Nikki as some might think.

There's certainly nothing wrong with practising weird moves for fun! But it is an on-sight competition, so I would be very surprised if it was not made up on the spot by her. But I'll ask around next time I'm at the gym (where this comp took place).

I didn't think it was a weird move at all. As camhead said above, part of it is the angle/perspective of the camera. I am not anything even remotely close to Nikki in terms of climbing ability, but I have done similar moves on bouldering problems. All it is is an extreme crossover, then dropping feet and bringing them up on the other side. The rotation happens naturally. Feet above hands is not anything weird, either -- in fact I had done it on real rock this weekend, twice, on two different routes.

And yes, I do believe that she has practiced this kinds of moves before-- not practiced this specific move on this specific route, but this KIND of move. Every climber of her caliber has a huge repertoire of moves that might be rare in real life, but come in handy sometimes.

The way I see it, it is a difference between a beginner who just learned what flagging is, and someone experienced who has done 1000s of flags in so many variations-- high, low, more twisted, less twisted, inside, outside, on every possible rock angle, etc. etc. After having done these moves so many times, they recognize and instinctively do that move on a route they are onsighting, and to an onlooker it looks so practiced and smooth. like they have rehearsed it before.


I_do


Nov 25, 2012, 8:35 AM
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lena_chita wrote:
I_do wrote:
acorneau wrote:
I_do wrote:
This is in the finals of the dutch climbing championchips. Why the hell would she have practiced moves like that. Have you?

Some people practice Rose moves, figure-fours, and other "trick" moves so they can use them when they see a situation where they would be beneficial. Nothing wrong with that.

However, I don't think the move in the video was as spontaneously conceived by Nikki as some might think.

There's certainly nothing wrong with practising weird moves for fun! But it is an on-sight competition, so I would be very surprised if it was not made up on the spot by her. But I'll ask around next time I'm at the gym (where this comp took place).

I didn't think it was a weird move at all. As camhead said above, part of it is the angle/perspective of the camera. I am not anything even remotely close to Nikki in terms of climbing ability, but I have done similar moves on bouldering problems. All it is is an extreme crossover, then dropping feet and bringing them up on the other side. The rotation happens naturally. Feet above hands is not anything weird, either -- in fact I had done it on real rock this weekend, twice, on two different routes.

And yes, I do believe that she has practiced this kinds of moves before-- not practiced this specific move on this specific route, but this KIND of move. Every climber of her caliber has a huge repertoire of moves that might be rare in real life, but come in handy sometimes.

The way I see it, it is a difference between a beginner who just learned what flagging is, and someone experienced who has done 1000s of flags in so many variations-- high, low, more twisted, less twisted, inside, outside, on every possible rock angle, etc. etc. After having done these moves so many times, they recognize and instinctively do that move on a route they are onsighting, and to an onlooker it looks so practiced and smooth. like they have rehearsed it before.

They only thing I don't agree with is the idea her feet would be above her hands. My initial response was aimed at the idea that this move wasn't spontanious.


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