Walk in!

Sucks about the foot! At least it's getting into the off season for you guys. How long will the recovery be?

yeah, what camhead couldn't do.

Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report.

Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too.

We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz.

Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list.

So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber.

It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge.

Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down.

Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on.

Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?"

Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!"

They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day.

I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me. I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot.

Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck.

Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops.

Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means.

So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh.

At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak.

That is awl.

TLDR

Yeah, other than getting injured in July, this is one of the best times of the year to get sidelined. Although I was really looking forward to a strong T-wall/Chatt season this year, which probably won't happen now.

As for recovery, I'm not sure, and am making a list of specific questions to ask the foot specialist on Monday before I go under teh knife. Recovery could be as short as 6 weeks, as long as 3 months. Right now, I'm def. planning on starting a hangboard cycle around mid-december, but have no idea when I'll be able to truly get back into it. Searched a bit on the prodge about foot injuries, and I guess that atrophy and weakening is going to be a serious concern.

The final thing I'm a bit concerned with (which I'm sure Beccs can relate to) is that I have no idea what this is going to do to my trad head. I've gotten a pretty good head together over the past few years, being willing to risk big falls and even some minor gear pullzings (the big fall onto the 0 tcu that Donnie saw me do a few years ago is an example), but perhaps I've gotten a tiny bit TOO cavalier about trad falls. I'm definitely going to focus mostly just on hard, safe, steep cracks in the future, but hope I won't start melting down at the sight of ledge falls when I get back into it.

atrophy and weakening happens very quickly. My right foot will never be the same, but thankfully, your injuries are very different

Oops. On re-read, our injuries aren't all that different. I severed all the tendons on the top of the right foot.

Piss.

And yeah, Ecop, my co-op gym will be very conducive to the recovery process. Hangboarding, super steep campus routes, etc.

ok, here is the one long-term complaint that I have and you can talk to your surgeon about. I have a lot of scar tissue in there that tends to pull my smaller two toes upward. But this also is a bit painful on the top of the foot between my toes and ankle. It's very taught and it will get a fiery pain. This is also where the cuts happened.

Now the things that are different. My first surgery was the night of the wreck. So the cuts to the tendons weren't clean. They were jagged. There was/is a lot of nerve damage. So you may not have the same experiences that I have. I hope that you do not. I can't climb crack at all anymore and it used to be my favorite thing. The pain is intolerable in that foot.

When is the surgery to fix it?

Surgery is Monday or Tues morning, not sure which yet. I have not had any nerve damage that I know of; not a lot of pain, but I can feel everything in the foot, too.

Did you get pins in your foot? My options are for pins, or what they call "fusion" of the tendons back to the bone, I believe.

atrophy and weakening happens very quickly. My right foot will never be the same, but thankfully, your injuries are very different

Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report.

Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too.

We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz.

Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list.

So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber.

It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge.

Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down.

Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on.

Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?"

Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!"

They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day.

I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me. I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot.

Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck.

Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops.

Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means.

So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh.

At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak.

That is awl.

TLDR

I sent BEHJ, and Hefe was teh butthurt.

It's a damn shame about the lisPaul injury. Also sorry to hear doing a little too much yardwork dropped jefe into several heavy flow days. damn.

No climbing out here... just family bird meal. Then we cruised up to wine country and chilled in a cabin. Fine wine, good food, hot tub, fireplace. Fat and weak. Yee haw.

I shortened your story a bit.

Nice job on the prodge, I was already getting ready to tell you that have no intention on going back to Solar Collector next year.

Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report.

Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too.

We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz.

Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list.

So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber.

It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge.

Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down.

Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on.

Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?"

Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!"

They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day.

I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me. I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot.

Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck.

Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops.

Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means.

So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh.

At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak.

That is awl.

TLDR

Tried a new bolted 5.12, got shut down on the very top by a long move from an undercling to a crimp that is bigger than my armspan with no intermediates in between. Kind of a bummer, becuase the rest of the route is super-fun, and not even 5.12.

It's a damn shame about the lisPaul injury. Also sorry to hear doing a little too much yardwork dropped jefe into several heavy flow days. damn.

No climbing out here... just family bird meal. Then we cruised up to wine country and chilled in a cabin. Fine wine, good food, hot tub, fireplace. Fat and weak. Yee haw.

That route is basically breakfast burrito to a boulder porblem ... was able to get it on try #3 ... I know the move you are talking about, though, and actually thought the crux was the next move to the anchors off those crimps. maybe you can work around that span by moving right earlier on some shitty holds?

that is also where I almost made some girl cry, because I mentioned to my friend that she was off route when she stemmed over onto F&B to rest before the crux section and her belayer overheard it. I think it must have been her first 12 or something.

That route is basically breakfast burrito to a boulder porblem ... was able to get it on try #3 ... I know the move you are talking about, though, and actually thought the crux was the next move to the anchors off those crimps. maybe you can work around that span by moving right earlier on some shitty holds?

that is also where I almost made some girl cry, because I mentioned to my friend that she was off route when she stemmed over onto F&B to rest before the crux section and her belayer overheard it. I think it must have been her first 12 or something.

will be doing teh fat and weke thing up in Socak wine country next weke end. this weekend we had a grupe of 10 or so bail down to me, teh gf, teh 2xasiant, and a gym n00b (3 climbers = fewer rowtz).

got out thursday, no sites at all, so crashed at the pit and got up early to find a site in jumbo (not sure why, but apparently people were leaving on friday morning).

had to wait around for t3h asiant and n00b to show up while teh gf drove into palm springs ... soloed teh eye, failzed on some hvcg bouldering. when they showed up, went to saddle rock and took a CI/Suze suggestion to go do where have all the cowboys gone? onzent it, that 2nd pitch is pretty gud. gud jorb with teh bolting to keep the rope away from the loose flakes.

also did Space Mountain, a not-so-well bolted rowt up there. bolts in the middle of hard moves, around teh corner to cause rope darg ... plus half the holds are loose flakes. not deserving of the 3 stars it gets in the RTM guide.