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brooklynclimber
Nov 22, 2012, 6:30 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2012
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First of all, happy Thanksgiving to everyone.
I'm fairly new (three months) to climbing and don't have much experience with route setting. I don't think there is a correct answer to this question, but I"m looking for some advice.
I'm building a wall in my house about 11' wide and 9.5' high. I have the following pieces of plywood cut:
2-4x8
1-3x8
These are going to be attached vertically to make the 11' width. I have two pieces of 1' ply that I will put on top to complete. I attached about 70 T-nuts to the first piece of 4x8 according to this pattern:
http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/walldone.jpg
I have about 80 t-nuts left, which won't cover the remaining pieces. I have a set of 50 synrock screw on holds (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290813265775&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:3160) and 16 bolt ons from Escape on the way. Should I buy more T-nuts or just assume that I can use the screw ons? If I just use the screw ons, should I have one panel reserved for them, or just space out the remaining t-nuts?
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wivanoff
Nov 22, 2012, 6:43 PM
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Registered: May 23, 2007
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After building your wall, do you want to take it apart in the future when you decide you didn't put in enough T-nuts?
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jbone
Nov 22, 2012, 9:53 PM
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
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You should strive for 100-150 t-Nuts per 4x8 sheet of plywood.
Screw on holds are mainly for feet so don't count them when it comes to populating your wall with holds.
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synrock
Nov 23, 2012, 4:53 PM
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Registered: Mar 17, 2004
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That 50 count of synrock screw-ons are not just for feet - on a vertical wall they will be more fun and realistic climbing than those bolt-ons. Put them everywhere.
On a vertical wall i would even go for the 150 count size. These aren't plastic and small synrock crimps, edges, and slopers climb exactly like the ones you find on a choice sandstone outdoor crag. By comparison small plastic screw-ons usually are feet only because nobody wants to use them for hands.
http://www.ebay.com/...id=p3984.m1555.l2649
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DonH
Nov 23, 2012, 8:55 PM
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Registered: May 27, 2011
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like stated, 100-150 holds per sheet is a good standard. Think of it this way, do you buy a car with flat tires? no. load your plywood with t-nuts. bolt on holds win BY FAR over screw on. screw on you can only have so much until the wood begins to deteriorate. not to mention easy of getting that bolt on in the perfect position for the problem. From my experience with my wall, save up the money and have ALL the materials ready to go. holds, construction materials, t-nuts bolts of varying sizes etc. to pound out the project. nothing worse then finishing a project and thinking, "damn if only i had a bolt right there"
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brooklynclimber
Nov 24, 2012, 2:35 PM
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Thanks, everyone. I'm off to get more T-nuts. I found a local supplier that sells them pretty inexpensively.
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synrock
Nov 24, 2012, 6:15 PM
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DonH wrote: screw on you can only have so much until the wood begins to deteriorate.
Dogma. Haven't seen it. Haven't heard of it. Haven't experienced it and I do a lot of screwing.
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DonH
Nov 25, 2012, 2:39 AM
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repeatedly screwing in holds to the wall can deteriorate the wall. it happened to my first but much smaller wall. t-nuts are just so much easier. more expensive yes, but far superior IMO. it is a good idea to have some screw on holds just for those really technical placements fro a route.
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climb4free
Nov 26, 2012, 3:38 PM
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Looks like you got a good answer about the t-nuts. More options is always better than less.
I know this wasn't your question, but having built 3 homewalls now, I would suggest having the full sheets of plywood on top and the 1' to 1.5' strip on the bottom.
Love to see some photos of your project... 
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brooklynclimber
Nov 26, 2012, 4:32 PM
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Thanks, climb4free. That was my thought as well. However. I have an 8 inch piece of moulding on the wall at the bottom that I doin't want to screw into, so the last six inches or so of the ply will be below the lowest stud. I'm going to screw a 1x2 to the bottom of the ply so it rests directly on the moulding. Can't do this with the 12'' strip though.
I'm writing this as I'm putting in the last of the t-nuts. Went out and got another box this morning, and picked up the first set of holds from Escape Climbing. Going to put up the ply and paint this morning.
I've read elsewhere that you should wait 7-14 days for the paint to dry so the holds won't pull it off. Is this correct, even with latex?
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synrock
Nov 26, 2012, 7:21 PM
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DonH wrote: repeatedly screwing in holds to the wall can deteriorate the wall.
What specifically do you mean deteriorate the wall? Did it fall apart? How big was the wall and how often did you change holds?
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synrock
Nov 26, 2012, 7:25 PM
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Registered: Mar 17, 2004
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You should be able to climb on the holds after a day or 2 drying - the holds getting stuck to the paint is related to how long the two are in contact so change the holds often - don't let them in the same place for a few days and you should be fine.
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Xavieous
Nov 27, 2012, 2:37 PM
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Registered: Nov 24, 2012
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I work at a climbing gym where we had to pound off a lot of the holds because of the paint issue, which was two fold.
The original setters didn't wait long enough (I would wait 3-5 days to make sure) after putting the paint on. I think they gave it 2 days.
Also, the issue of having the holds on the wall for too long. Some holds had been on the wall for years and they were binding to the paint.
We recently did an overhall and repainted a lot of ripped spots, waiting 5 days. Worked great.
As to building your wall, congrats! When you get tired of your woody, try spicing it up with some volumes, they're easy to build and provide a great variety to the wall.
Pictures please!
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