snoopy138 wrote:

caughtinside wrote:

Saturday went to HVCG ... I failed to zend Blind Ambition, falling about 8 times before I figured out teh curx. Did successfully do the Official Route of the 1984 Olympics despite it baking in the sun, which is still a kickass route (had failed at the crux last time). Then got up to and clipped teh bolt on LST, but was too exhausted to make the 1.5 moves to get into the hand carck. then had to wait on top in the dark for half an hour for the lone rap anchor.

Sunday hiked up ryan mt. with teh gf in the morning, then went to Hound Rock/Baskerville Rock. BoF'd the Crescent Wrench ... was trying to find something to grab over the lip to pull over with when my foot slipped. fuck. also chickened out of the unprotected mantle on the Left Baskerville Carck. need to bring a carsh pad out there if I'm going to commit to that one, I think. Teh asiant onzent teh Right Baskerville and Tossed Green.

lena_chita wrote:

That route is basically breakfast burrito to a boulder porblem ... was able to get it on try #3 ... I know the move you are talking about, though, and actually thought the crux was the next move to the anchors off those crimps. maybe you can work around that span by moving right earlier on some shitty holds?

that is also where I almost made some girl cry, because I mentioned to my friend that she was off route when she stemmed over onto F&B to rest before the crux section and her belayer overheard it. I think it must have been her first 12 or something.

snoopy138 wrote:

Hmm, don't know the Blind Ambition, will have to look at MP.

That Crescent Wrench is good and hard. I TR'd the Direct Wrench too which was pretty damn fun and weird. tough finish for both.

granite_grrl wrote:

Next moves were not a problem, if I grabbed the draw instead of the undercling to reach the lowest left crimp, I was O.K. with the sequence from there to the anchors. But I couldn't get that crimp otherwise. I tried reaching down from the crimp once I had it, to see if I could get the undercling, thinking that maybe, even though it felt like full extension, I just was not extending enough when I was doing the upward move, but actually had the reach for it. Nope!

Janderson helpfully pointed out that another girl had figured out that move, while J. was belaying her, so maybe she had a suggestion. But unfortunately it turned out to be the classical case of "to a tall person, there is no real visible difference between someone who is 5'0" and someone who is 5'2" with +2 ape index". I had asked her what she did, and she did exactly the same thing I was doing -- except her fingertips reached. She is a strong climber, she was working Spank, which is a .13, but said that 12 felt just as hard for her, so she wasn't going to get back on it for a redpoint.

OTOH, a friend of J. found a knee bar rest at the last bolt, in that scoop where the undercling is, on his second go, and said it made the whole thing feel like easy 5.11 with his 5'10" reach.

Such cool plates at the bottom though! And the moves leading up to the last bolt were really neat.

caughtinside wrote:

backside of chimney rock, direct line up to the Flue anchors.

caughtinside wrote:

backside of chimney rock, direct line up to the Flue anchors.

snoopy138 wrote:

I looked it up... I may have TR'd it years ago. I know I did the flue, and then we toproped up the rap line. Not really sure if that's the line.

camhead wrote:

drivel wrote:

Walk in!

snoopy138 wrote:

Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report.

Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too.

We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz.

Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list.

So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber.

It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge.

Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down.

Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on.

Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?"

Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!"

They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day.

I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me. I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot.

Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck.

Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops.

Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means.

So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh.

At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak.

That is awl.

TLDR

caughtinside wrote:

oh, yeah, and you should get on that '84 olympics route whenever you're down here; really good, probably a tough onsite since it's not all that apparent where to go at the crux.

snoopy138 wrote:

Yeah, that has been one I have been wanting to do. I haven't hung the trax line on it because I want to give it a legit onsite try.

dr_feelgood wrote:

damn, that shit blowz. won't even be able to climb teh steep shitz? I guess you will at least be able to get gud at teh hangboreding.

I basically failzed all over jtree, but did not injure myself in the process at least.

caughtinside wrote:

That's kind of how the creke went.

caughtinside wrote:

That's kind of how the creke went.

snoopy138 wrote:

camhead wrote:

oh, yeah, Lena, I guess your zend of Fictitious Racist Jebus was sort of lost amidst teh butthurtz, Lispaulhurtz, and headhurtz (I'm a bit perplexed their on how one goes about doing the Aquaduct Pocket and then falling off of the top). Gud werk ... what's the next proj?

camhead wrote:

oh, yeah, Lena, I guess your zend of Fictitious Racist Jebus was sort of lost amidst teh butthurtz, Lispaulhurtz, and headhurtz (I'm a bit perplexed their on how one goes about doing the Aquaduct Pocket and then falling off of the top). Gud werk ... what's the next proj?

snoopy138 wrote:

Yes, Lena got the only zend of the trip.