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skiclimb
Nov 26, 2012, 8:40 PM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938
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Don't miss this folks. Better than anything you'd pay for in a rag.
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potreroed
Nov 26, 2012, 10:30 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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Excellent photo-blog. Thank you.
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moose_droppings
Nov 27, 2012, 12:19 AM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
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Great TR as usual Mark.
Thanks.
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Gmburns2000
Nov 27, 2012, 2:59 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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skiclimb wrote: Don't miss this folks. Better than anything you'd pay for in a rag.
+1
Always enjoy his TRs. Really great stuff.
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njrox
Nov 27, 2012, 3:10 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251
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this did not suck.
great pics man.
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markc
Nov 27, 2012, 3:58 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
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With photos (and videos) like those, who needs much text? I've been to the beach with really heavy fog, but never climbed in the clouds. Surreal.
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dagibbs
Nov 28, 2012, 8:30 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921
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Awesome trip report, love the photos.
You say:
In reply to: We removed one bolt, a dozen heads, five or six pins and 100% of the tat on the route.
I can understand cleaning tat. But what is the logic behind removing bolts, heads, or pins? (This is not intended to be accusatory, I am looking to understand.)
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Mark_Hudon
Nov 29, 2012, 12:50 AM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2010
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The bolt was at an anchor that already had four 3/8" bolts. It wasn't a bolt out to the side to allow for a multi-portledge set up, it was in amongst the 3/8. I filled the hole with epoxy.
The pins, well, I give every fixed pin a whack, if it moves, I take it out. If it's bomber solid, I leave it. Aid climbing is all about placing your own gear and I remove gear appropriate to the level of the climb. I wouldn't remove pins on, let's say the Leaning Tower, but I might start on Zodiac. On Lost in America, I expect a better level of climber is on that route who is looking for difficulty, not merely clipping up a line of fixed gear.
All the heads we removed we climbed past via other means, mostly cleanly, but sometimes via a pin or beak. Max and I called them "adventure stealing heads". Clipping up fixed gear posses no challenge at all. Maybe for climbers on The Leaning Tower, or The South Face of WC, merely getting up the route is challenge enough but if you're on Lost in America and that level route, you're looking for challenge and challenge on walls is placing your own gear.
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dagibbs
Nov 29, 2012, 3:26 AM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921
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Thanks Mark, that makes a lot of sense.
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