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kobaz
Sep 20, 2009, 5:39 PM
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And the larger issue is I guess... is that the management was kinda blazé about it.
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adatesman
Sep 20, 2009, 5:45 PM
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kobaz
Sep 20, 2009, 5:48 PM
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Excellent article... Thanks!
Oh... Hey... where in PA are you? I've recently moved to smack in the middle between Altoona and State College.
(This post was edited by kobaz on Sep 20, 2009, 5:49 PM)
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potreroed
Sep 20, 2009, 9:11 PM
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[quote "robgordon"]am i the only one here that likes a dynamic belay?
occasionally i take big ol' leader falls.
i like a soft catch.
grigri's are awesome if you enjoy being short-roped and don't ever need to rapp on two ropes.
asdf[/quote]
Being short-roped = belayer error.
You can use a gri-gri with a 2 rope rappel, you just need to set it up a little bit differently.
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shockabuku
Sep 20, 2009, 9:42 PM
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potreroed wrote: robgordon wrote: am i the only one here that likes a dynamic belay? occasionally i take big ol' leader falls. i like a soft catch. grigri's are awesome if you enjoy being short-roped and don't ever need to rapp on two ropes. asdf Being short-roped = belayer error. You can use a gri-gri with a 2 rope rappel, you just need to set it up a little bit differently.
robgordon hasn't logged on in over a year and the post you were replying to is over 5 years old.
(This post was edited by shockabuku on Sep 20, 2009, 9:43 PM)
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adatesman
Sep 20, 2009, 11:15 PM
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lar24
Sep 21, 2009, 12:46 AM
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I've never seen a GriGri fail. These posts got me curious as to how a GriGri (or an ATC for that matter) could fail, so I checked out the website and found a video about GriGri techniques.
If you have any questions or doubts, give it a watch:
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/belay-devices/grigri
Otherwise, I'd say it's a useful and safe device so long as the belayer uses it properly.
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healyje
Sep 21, 2009, 8:09 AM
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Pretty much just the existence of the term "autolock" is the problem. Product documentation and design specifics seem unable to conquer this myth. And that shouldn't be a surprise given its locking capability has been a real behind-the-scenes driver of sport climbing since its introduction. It is inherently a functionally 'gray' device by design - locking reliably, but autolocking only incidentally. The problem is it does autolock a high enough percentage of the time that, for all practical purposes, that has become the enduring mass perception of its functionality.
And in reality, the principal use of the device, and the reason for its overwhelming popularity isn't belaying, but rather hanging, and hanging in a way that shifts responsibility for 'locking-off' from the belayer to the device. Shift that locking-off responisibility often enough and, humans being human, it should come as no surprise that most people expect the device to also initiate that locking, and therein lies the sad tale of the numerous edge cases we read about where it doesn't, thereby catching the 'belayer' by surprise. When using a grigri you have to realize that only you are responsible for intitiating locking - you're the belayer, not a belay attendant.
In some ways it's a patterned behavior/addiction from my perspective and the moral is: grigris work fine, just don't expect them to do 100% of your job even 1% of the time.
(This post was edited by healyje on Sep 22, 2009, 7:56 AM)
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jeepnphreak
Sep 28, 2009, 4:51 PM
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My gri gri story. I have ever once had a grigri perform...under par.
two seasons ago my wife and I found a 11b to try out for the first time. There was a walk on/off, I set up the top rope and rapped off.
While I trying to fugure out the crux move my foot sliped and fell. about 5/6 feet...
I was a bit shocked as to how I could go that far and a top rope evan with rop stretch, I like a loose bely but still.
so that night I took a close look at the grigri and noticed that its cam was really sticky and stiff. It had goten gunked up from the fine silts that are at the base the the lime stone cliffs.
I cleaned the grigri up and put a dab of cam lube on the cam. twice a season I clean the rope feeding track out and I have not yet had any troubles with it since.
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shockabuku
Sep 28, 2009, 5:22 PM
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jeepnphreak wrote: My gri gri story. I have ever once had a grigri perform...under par. two seasons ago my wife and I found a 11b to try out for the first time. There was a walk on/off, I set up the top rope and rapped off. While I trying to fugure out the crux move my foot sliped and fell. about 5/6 feet... I was a bit shocked as to how I could go that far and a top rope evan with rop stretch, I like a loose bely but still. so that night I took a close look at the grigri and noticed that its cam was really sticky and stiff. It had goten gunked up from the fine silts that are at the base the the lime stone cliffs. I cleaned the grigri up and put a dab of cam lube on the cam. twice a season I clean the rope feeding track out and I have not yet had any troubles with it since.
You should really edit that into intelligible English (or even some other language) before you let anyone else try to read it.
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saint_john
Nov 27, 2012, 4:28 PM
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If used properly Gri Gris don't fail. Neither do ATCs.
Belayers fail when they use those devices improperly. Climbers fail when they climb with incompetent belayers.
I can't think of any situation when a belay device, in proper condion and being used in the manner it was designed for, would fail. It's up to the user to educate themselves on proper technique.
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abrock5
Nov 27, 2012, 7:51 PM
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You resurrected a thread that was over 3 years old...
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shockabuku
Nov 28, 2012, 4:07 AM
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abrock5 wrote: You resurrected a thread that was over 3 years old...
You are clearly mistaken.
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fusionbjj
Jan 29, 2013, 10:24 PM
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[quote "mach_y"]Recently I was outdoors and a friend could not finish the top of a 10d (just burned out), so I offered to finish the top (I'd only led a 5.7 at that point, but can climb 10+ on TR) as I was not worried about a ground fall being top roped almost the entire way. My wife had me on belay, and I didn't realize she put me on a gri-gri (she's been climbing longer than I too). When I went for the final move (about 5 feet above the last draw), she didn't give any slack (harder to do with a Gri-gri), she pulled me off the wall. Instead of falling 10 feet plus rope stretch, when she braked, the rope went over the handle release of the gri-gri and kept it open. By the time she realized this and fixed it, I fell nearly 30 feet (my first lead fall, ahh!). I didn't deck, but it certainly gave me quite the scare (her too).
Lesson learned for us: we leave the gri-gri at home and only use it for indoor climbing.[/quote]
Your wife lied about what happened. What you described borders on the impossible. The much more likely scenario is she screwed up somehow, most likely by clamping down on the device with her hand in a moment of panic and kept it from locking up. She was afraid to tell you the truth, or possibly in the way that only women can, convinced herself whatever happened wasn't her fault and made up that scenario in her head.
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petsfed
Jan 29, 2013, 10:56 PM
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fusionbjj wrote: mach_y wrote: Recently I was outdoors and a friend could not finish the top of a 10d (just burned out), so I offered to finish the top (I'd only led a 5.7 at that point, but can climb 10+ on TR) as I was not worried about a ground fall being top roped almost the entire way. My wife had me on belay, and I didn't realize she put me on a gri-gri (she's been climbing longer than I too). When I went for the final move (about 5 feet above the last draw), she didn't give any slack (harder to do with a Gri-gri), she pulled me off the wall. Instead of falling 10 feet plus rope stretch, when she braked, the rope went over the handle release of the gri-gri and kept it open. By the time she realized this and fixed it, I fell nearly 30 feet (my first lead fall, ahh!). I didn't deck, but it certainly gave me quite the scare (her too). Lesson learned for us: we leave the gri-gri at home and only use it for indoor climbing. Your wife lied about what happened. What you described borders on the impossible. The much more likely scenario is she screwed up somehow, most likely by clamping down on the device with her hand in a moment of panic and kept it from locking up. She was afraid to tell you the truth, or possibly in the way that only women can, convinced herself whatever happened wasn't her fault and made up that scenario in her head.
1) cheesetits
2) zombie thread hungers for BRAINS!
3) the scenario described is possible, provided the belayer has no idea what they are doing with a gri-gri for a leader. The gri-gri has a designated chirality to it, and trying to use the wrong hand for the designated brake hand can and will interfere with the safe operation of the device
4) holy implied misogyny batman!
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viciado
Jan 30, 2013, 11:25 AM
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petsfed wrote: ...snip... 1) cheesetits 2) zombie thread hungers for BRAINS! 3) the scenario described is possible, provided the belayer has no idea what they are doing with a gri-gri for a leader. The gri-gri has a designated chirality to it, and trying to use the wrong hand for the designated brake hand can and will interfere with the safe operation of the device 4) holy implied misogyny batman!
+1 on that... and your sig is highly appropriate.
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Kartessa
Jan 30, 2013, 5:01 PM
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Maybe her breasts were getting in the way of her brain.
Happens to me all the time.
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petsfed
Jan 31, 2013, 1:18 AM
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Kartessa wrote: Maybe her breasts were getting in the way of her brain. Happens to me all the time.
I... but... you...
Man, I don't understand women at all.
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notapplicable
Jan 31, 2013, 2:01 AM
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petsfed wrote: Kartessa wrote: Maybe her breasts were getting in the way of her brain. Happens to me all the time. I... but... you... Man, I don't understand women at all.
I believe that is part of their plan.
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SylviaSmile
Jan 31, 2013, 7:00 AM
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notapplicable wrote: petsfed wrote: Kartessa wrote: Maybe her breasts were getting in the way of her brain. Happens to me all the time. I... but... you... Man, I don't understand women at all. I believe that is part of their plan.
Yes, it is like when people driving refuse to use their turn signals because they do not want to lose the element of surprise!
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healyje
Jan 31, 2013, 7:08 AM
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You guys do know that 'GriGri' means 'Poodle' in French, right?
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SylviaSmile
Jan 31, 2013, 7:12 AM
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I don't and I think you made that up!
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Gmburns2000
Jan 31, 2013, 10:46 AM
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SylviaSmile wrote: notapplicable wrote: petsfed wrote: Kartessa wrote: Maybe her breasts were getting in the way of her brain. Happens to me all the time. I... but... you... Man, I don't understand women at all. I believe that is part of their plan. Yes, it is like when people driving refuse to use their turn signals because they do not want to lose the element of surprise!
In Boston people don't like giving information to the enemy.
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viciado
Jan 31, 2013, 3:06 PM
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It's more like "talisman".
But I bet a poodle would make better pro.
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Kartessa
Jan 31, 2013, 3:07 PM
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healyje wrote: You guys do know that 'GriGri' means 'Poodle' in French, right?
I thought it meant "Cigarette"
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