|
|
|
|
camhead
Dec 3, 2012, 3:09 PM
Post #94426 of 105309
(2885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
Oh, and more hangboard speculations for Lena, even though I already posted in the training forum:
I would probably encourage you to do the periodization thing, rather than try to mix and match hangboarding in with the rest of your training this winter.
First off, because yore in Cleveland, and certainly there will be a month somewhere that you are not planning on climbing at all outside. So, you may as well devote all that time to getting fingers of steel.
Second, because the biggest thing that climbers lose during hangboard periods is explosive power, and really, you are not a super explosive climber right now, so you don't have a lot of power to lose! Want to build power? Get on a campus board. Want to get on a campus board without hurting your fingers? Do a hangboard cycle first. See how this works? Seriously, I think that if you really want to improve teh quickest, a month dedicated solely to the hangbored would be the best beta for you.
Oh, and you should take your question over to mountainproject; there are way more training folks over there. Though, don't pay attention to anything a guy named "Slim" will chime in with. He is obsessed with training and will talk like a big expert, but I've heard from several folks that he's been stuck at 12a toproping for like his entire life.
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Dec 3, 2012, 3:43 PM
Post #94427 of 105309
(2875 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So on the weekend Nathan built me a larger training wall in my apartment. One wall is 7 degrees over hanging and meant for a bunch of drytool training, the other side is 45 degees and I'm looking to buy (or have Nathan make) me some HIT strips. Best part of all this is that I also got a tree house. Yes, the wall took over half my living room, but there's a super cozy nook for chillaxing in. I still need to outfit it with pillows and blankets though. Facespace pic: [img]http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/14590_10151316841390552_374335806_n.jpg[/img] You suck at posting photos, but it is a sweet setup. :)
Nathan took the camera home.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Dec 3, 2012, 3:59 PM
Post #94428 of 105309
(2868 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So on the weekend Nathan built me a larger training wall in my apartment. One wall is 7 degrees over hanging and meant for a bunch of drytool training, the other side is 45 degees and I'm looking to buy (or have Nathan make) me some HIT strips. Best part of all this is that I also got a tree house. Yes, the wall took over half my living room, but there's a super cozy nook for chillaxing in. I still need to outfit it with pillows and blankets though. Facespace pic: [img]http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/14590_10151316841390552_374335806_n.jpg[/img] You suck at posting photos, but it is a sweet setup. :) Nathan took the camera home.
Speaking of posting photos. Because it's there!
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Dec 3, 2012, 4:54 PM
Post #94429 of 105309
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So on the weekend Nathan built me a larger training wall in my apartment. One wall is 7 degrees over hanging and meant for a bunch of drytool training, the other side is 45 degees and I'm looking to buy (or have Nathan make) me some HIT strips. Best part of all this is that I also got a tree house. Yes, the wall took over half my living room, but there's a super cozy nook for chillaxing in. I still need to outfit it with pillows and blankets though. Facespace pic: [img]http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/14590_10151316841390552_374335806_n.jpg[/img] You suck at posting photos, but it is a sweet setup. :) Nathan took the camera home. Speaking of posting photos. Because it's there!
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Dec 3, 2012, 5:07 PM
Post #94430 of 105309
(2859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So on the weekend Nathan built me a larger training wall in my apartment. One wall is 7 degrees over hanging and meant for a bunch of drytool training, the other side is 45 degees and I'm looking to buy (or have Nathan make) me some HIT strips. Best part of all this is that I also got a tree house. Yes, the wall took over half my living room, but there's a super cozy nook for chillaxing in. I still need to outfit it with pillows and blankets though. Facespace pic:  You suck at posting photos, but it is a sweet setup. :)
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Dec 3, 2012, 5:07 PM
Post #94431 of 105309
(2859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So on the weekend Nathan built me a larger training wall in my apartment. One wall is 7 degrees over hanging and meant for a bunch of drytool training, the other side is 45 degees and I'm looking to buy (or have Nathan make) me some HIT strips. Best part of all this is that I also got a tree house. Yes, the wall took over half my living room, but there's a super cozy nook for chillaxing in. I still need to outfit it with pillows and blankets though. Facespace pic: [img]http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/14590_10151316841390552_374335806_n.jpg[/img] You suck at posting photos, but it is a sweet setup. :) Nathan took the camera home. Speaking of posting photos. Because it's there! aww, I feel kinda bad for the kid. We can't all be good dancers you know.
He probably feels bad for us, too. Since we can't all be 15c, err, 9b+ climbers.
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Dec 3, 2012, 5:09 PM
Post #94432 of 105309
(2857 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
got back from second day out on ice this year.
I iz weke, Lawd!
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Dec 3, 2012, 5:26 PM
Post #94433 of 105309
(2850 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
dr_feelgood wrote: got back from second day out on ice this year. I iz weke, Lawd!
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Dec 3, 2012, 5:28 PM
Post #94434 of 105309
(2849 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
Great, 'tis the season. Ice tawk and hangbored tawk. At least it's not garden or bread tawk.
|
|
|
|
|
epoch
Moderator
Dec 3, 2012, 5:37 PM
Post #94435 of 105309
(2845 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 32162
|
I replanted the garden for the Sandoradiego winter crop. Gots me some spinach, broccoli, beets, and cabbage to go along with my still-kicking-ass kale, onion, peppers, tomato, herbs, and eggplant.
Also, prepping for the sokak ice season - which unfortunately involves much driving.
-----Couldn't resist camhat.
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Dec 3, 2012, 5:53 PM
Post #94436 of 105309
(2838 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
camhead wrote: Great, 'tis the season. Ice tawk and hangbored tawk. At least it's not garden or bread tawk.
We could get a little into compost tawk.
To the worm composters, you you throw all your food on the top or do you bury it? I'm finding the bedding a little gross to do the burying thing, but it will keep things easier to maintain in the long run?
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Dec 3, 2012, 6:10 PM
Post #94437 of 105309
(2835 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
dr_feelgood wrote: got back from second day out on ice this year. I iz weke, Lawd!
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Dec 3, 2012, 6:11 PM
Post #94438 of 105309
(2834 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: got back from second day out on ice this year. I iz weke, Lawd! The Bozeman ice fest is next weekend, isn't it?
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Dec 3, 2012, 6:12 PM
Post #94439 of 105309
(2829 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: Great, 'tis the season. Ice tawk and hangbored tawk. At least it's not garden or bread tawk. We could get a little into compost tawk. To the worm composters, you you throw all your food on the top or do you bury it? I'm finding the bedding a little gross to do the burying thing, but it will keep things easier to maintain in the long run?
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Dec 3, 2012, 6:17 PM
Post #94440 of 105309
(2827 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: Great, 'tis the season. Ice tawk and hangbored tawk. At least it's not garden or bread tawk. We could get a little into compost tawk. To the worm composters, you you throw all your food on the top or do you bury it? I'm finding the bedding a little gross to do the burying thing, but it will keep things easier to maintain in the long run? Our worms died the first few times. Now we just leave the compost outside and let it turn into a frozen mush.
My population seems healthy but there are starting to be enough fruit flies that they're getting irritating.
I'm cutting back on the feeding for the next couple of weeks.
|
|
|
|
|
epoch
Moderator
Dec 3, 2012, 6:30 PM
Post #94441 of 105309
(2821 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 32162
|
dr_feelgood wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: got back from second day out on ice this year. I iz weke, Lawd! And, I realized at the top of the first pitch that I had forgotten my ATC. Whoops.
heh. may this year be the year you get paid back for letting me belay a tree!
|
|
|
|
|
epoch
Moderator
Dec 3, 2012, 6:31 PM
Post #94442 of 105309
(2820 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 32162
|
dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: got back from second day out on ice this year. I iz weke, Lawd! The Bozeman ice fest is next weekend, isn't it? Yeah. It is doubtful that there will be much ice up, as we've had a bit of a sparse year.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Dec 3, 2012, 6:38 PM
Post #94443 of 105309
(2813 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: Great, 'tis the season. Ice tawk and hangbored tawk. At least it's not garden or bread tawk. We could get a little into compost tawk. To the worm composters, you you throw all your food on the top or do you bury it? I'm finding the bedding a little gross to do the burying thing, but it will keep things easier to maintain in the long run? Our worms died the first few times. Now we just leave the compost outside and let it turn into a frozen mush.
durp.
|
|
|
|
|
climbs4fun
Moderator
Dec 3, 2012, 6:39 PM
Post #94444 of 105309
(2813 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 9679
|
Happy 50th birthday to Art. Take a shot of tequila for him if you have it handy.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Dec 3, 2012, 7:31 PM
Post #94445 of 105309
(2805 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
camhead wrote: Great, 'tis the season. Ice tawk and hangbored tawk. At least it's not garden or bread tawk.
will be climbing on rocks this winter.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 4, 2012, 7:03 AM
Post #94446 of 105309
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
camhead wrote: Oh, and more hangboard speculations for Lena, even though I already posted in the training forum: I would probably encourage you to do the periodization thing, rather than try to mix and match hangboarding in with the rest of your training this winter. First off, because yore in Cleveland, and certainly there will be a month somewhere that you are not planning on climbing at all outside. So, you may as well devote all that time to getting fingers of steel. Second, because the biggest thing that climbers lose during hangboard periods is explosive power, and really, you are not a super explosive climber right now, so you don't have a lot of power to lose! Want to build power? Get on a campus board. Want to get on a campus board without hurting your fingers? Do a hangboard cycle first. See how this works? Seriously, I think that if you really want to improve teh quickest, a month dedicated solely to the hangbored would be the best beta for you. Oh, and you should take your question over to mountainproject; there are way more training folks over there. Though, don't pay attention to anything a guy named "Slim" will chime in with. He is obsessed with training and will talk like a big expert, but I've heard from several folks that he's been stuck at 12a toproping for like his entire life.
LOL. I AM doing periodisation. It is more of me trying to answer the questions for people who see me doing the hangboard stuff and want to know about it ,and then turn around and say, oh, yeah, I'll do this with you, totally, how about next week on Tuesday after I climb for couple hours first? I've been passing out Manderson's article to anyone who is interested. :) I got one lady who wants to do it with me regularly, and I am hoping that it would help, b/c heck it is BORING!
And yes, the plan is to do hangboard until late Jaunary (there will be an unavoidable break for a week for the holidays), then ~3 weeks of campusing.
And yes, I am doing warm-up by 20 min of ARC traversing before every hangboard session (which right now I plan to do 3x a week, unless I am gone for the weekend, in which case it would be 2x/week that week), and doing high-volume lower intensity toprope climbing at least once a week for couple hours, on a day when I am not doing hangboard.
And yes, I do need weight subtraction on some holds. Hopefully not for very long. I have the pulley set up now, and it works great.
I did a session yesterday 5 grips, 6 sets on each. On large slopers I needed to subtract 5 lb after two sets, otherwise I was getting sloppy and felt that my wrists and shoulders were hurting and on really small crimps I subtracted 20, bc I couldn't hang on them for a set of 6 when I tried earlier last week.
Two other holds-- bigger crimpers and smaller slompers I did without weight, and on pinches I actually added 5 lb.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Dec 4, 2012, 7:22 AM
Post #94447 of 105309
(2786 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and more hangboard speculations for Lena, even though I already posted in the training forum: I would probably encourage you to do the periodization thing, rather than try to mix and match hangboarding in with the rest of your training this winter. First off, because yore in Cleveland, and certainly there will be a month somewhere that you are not planning on climbing at all outside. So, you may as well devote all that time to getting fingers of steel. Second, because the biggest thing that climbers lose during hangboard periods is explosive power, and really, you are not a super explosive climber right now, so you don't have a lot of power to lose! Want to build power? Get on a campus board. Want to get on a campus board without hurting your fingers? Do a hangboard cycle first. See how this works? Seriously, I think that if you really want to improve teh quickest, a month dedicated solely to the hangbored would be the best beta for you. Oh, and you should take your question over to mountainproject; there are way more training folks over there. Though, don't pay attention to anything a guy named "Slim" will chime in with. He is obsessed with training and will talk like a big expert, but I've heard from several folks that he's been stuck at 12a toproping for like his entire life. LOL. I AM doing periodisation. It is more of me trying to answer the questions for people who see me doing the hangboard stuff and want to know about it ,and then turn around and say, oh, yeah, I'll do this with you, totally, how about next week on Tuesday after I climb for couple hours first? I've been passing out Manderson's article to anyone who is interested. :) I got one lady who wants to do it with me regularly, and I am hoping that it would help, b/c heck it is BORING! And yes, the plan is to do hangboard until late Jaunary (there will be an unavoidable break for a week for the holidays), then ~3 weeks of campusing. And yes, I am doing warm-up by 20 min of ARC traversing before every hangboard session (which right now I plan to do 3x a week, unless I am gone for the weekend, in which case it would be 2x/week that week), and doing high-volume lower intensity toprope climbing at least once a week for couple hours, on a day when I am not doing hangboard. And yes, I do need weight subtraction on some holds. Hopefully not for very long. I have the pulley set up now, and it works great. I did a session yesterday 5 grips, 6 sets on each. On large slopers I needed to subtract 5 lb after two sets, otherwise I was getting sloppy and felt that my wrists and shoulders were hurting and on really small crimps I subtracted 20, bc I couldn't hang on them for a set of 6 when I tried earlier last week. Two other holds-- bigger crimpers and smaller slompers I did without weight, and on pinches I actually added 5 lb.
Oh, a bit more unsolicited advice-- most folks I've talked to agree that slopers are pretty useless to train on hangboreds. Can't remember why, though. I only use slopers for warmup/cooldowns.
And as for the plan of going until January, be aware that you will very likely hit a peak around 4-5 weeks in. It will be super obvious; you'll be plugging along, adding weight, improving quickly with each session, and then all the sudden, BOOM, no more improvement. After this point, you will not be making any more gains on the hangboard, and you should just move onto campusing. When I did my first cycle last year, I planned for 6 weeks of hangboreding, because, hey, I'm all rad like that, but barely 4 weeks into it I hit the peak. You just have to do what your body tells you to do.
this thread helped me a lot:
http://mountainproject.com/...07446290#a_107448606
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Dec 4, 2012, 9:27 AM
Post #94448 of 105309
(2774 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken.
Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else.
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Dec 4, 2012, 9:35 AM
Post #94449 of 105309
(2771 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
snoopy138 wrote: Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken. Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else.
Fixing trigger wires on BD cams yoreself is no big thing. We picked up a trigger wire replacement kit some years ago with all the bits an pieces.
Don't know if the Aliens are more complicated though.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Dec 4, 2012, 10:01 AM
Post #94450 of 105309
(2764 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken. Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else. Fixing trigger wires on BD cams yoreself is no big thing. We picked up a trigger wire replacement kit some years ago with all the bits an pieces. Don't know if the Aliens are more complicated though.
they are more complicated.
|
|
|
|
|
|
