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Training in a bouldering gym
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dandlezzz


Dec 7, 2012, 9:42 AM
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Training in a bouldering gym
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Hello all,

I had a training question and I am sure this has been asked before so I apologize for not searching the past 6 years of threads for the answer.

I live in a place that is cold, dark and rainy most of the year. The only gym I have access to is a bouldering only gym. However, my short term goal is to send a 5.12a sport route at the end of this summer.

I currently can onsight almost any v3 boulder problem and can send about 25% of the V4s while occasionally getting lucky on a V5. My endurance is decent, when I am sport climbing I can redpoint 5.10bs and dogg myself up 5.11a.

Until the sun comes back how I can use the bouldering gym to effectively prepare for my outdoor 5.12 goal using only the bouldering gym. Given that I can only reliably sen V3s at this point, is this a reasonable goal?


csproul


Dec 7, 2012, 10:14 AM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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Re: [dandlezzz] Training in a bouldering gym [In reply to]
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dandlezzz wrote:
Hello all,

I had a training question and I am sure this has been asked before so I apologize for not searching the past 6 years of threads for the answer.

I live in a place that is cold, dark and rainy most of the year. The only gym I have access to is a bouldering only gym. However, my short term goal is to send a 5.12a sport route at the end of this summer.

I currently can onsight almost any v3 boulder problem and can send about 25% of the V4s while occasionally getting lucky on a V5. My endurance is decent, when I am sport climbing I can redpoint 5.10bs and dogg myself up 5.11a.

Until the sun comes back how I can use the bouldering gym to effectively prepare for my outdoor 5.12 goal using only the bouldering gym. Given that I can only reliably sen V3s at this point, is this a reasonable goal?
I actually think that bouldering gyms are probably the most ideal place to train, IMO even better than a gym that only has routes. 2nd, if you can onsite V3 and have climbed up to V5, then 12a should really not be a problem. There is a pretty big discrepancy between your bouldering ability and your route climbing ability. You should pretty easily be able to bring your route climbing up to your bouldering level.


dandlezzz


Dec 7, 2012, 10:29 AM
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Re: [csproul] Training in a bouldering gym [In reply to]
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Thanks for the response that is encouraging. I am having trouble wiring the V4s like I can the V3s. I never take more than 2 tries on any V3 whether it's steep or crimpy or whatever. However, I rarely can get a V4 in less than 5-6 tries. And many of them I can't get at all. 5 sends are few and far between. I feel as if I have platauted. Is that common at this level? Also, what is the best way to break the plateau while only reltying on the bouldering gym.


csproul


Dec 7, 2012, 10:38 AM
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Re: [dandlezzz] Training in a bouldering gym [In reply to]
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dandlezzz wrote:
Thanks for the response that is encouraging. I am having trouble wiring the V4s like I can the V3s. I never take more than 2 tries on any V3 whether it's steep or crimpy or whatever. However, I rarely can get a V4 in less than 5-6 tries. And many of them I can't get at all. 5 sends are few and far between. I feel as if I have platauted. Is that common at this level? Also, what is the best way to break the plateau while only reltying on the bouldering gym.
I'm probably not the best person to ask for specific training advice, except to say that this:
http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/
is widely regarded as a good resource.
Plateaus at that level are incredibly common, so don't feel like that is out of the ordinary. If you want to redpoint 12a, then that will also take multiple tries, just like V4's and 5's do now. I think that most low 12's would not have moves harder than the average V4/5.


theextremist04


Dec 7, 2012, 11:29 AM
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Re: [dandlezzz] Training in a bouldering gym [In reply to]
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Seems reasonable- start incorporating longer workouts like ARC training and 4x4s to work on your endurance. Also:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html


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