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Sedona Tower: Alladins Turban
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sonso45


Nov 23, 2012, 12:10 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2002
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Sedona Tower: Alladins Turban
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My friends Jake and Kole have climbed a few new lines together in Sedona. Since Kole moved away we haven't climbed together but he was home for Thanksgiving and we had a plan. Jake found a nice hidden tower near Soldier Pass Road in Sedona and shared the first ascent with us.

The approach is hard to describe and Jake will provide it later. Basically it is at the north end of the formation that forms Coffeepot Rock. The walk isn't bad but it takes at least an hour, most of it on the trail.

The first pitch was Kole's to do; he placed a thin .5 camalot in a shallow slot. Not very inspiring but adequate. I belayed him above a long slab which may have meant a long tumble for us both: no fall zone.



After climbing easy stems and soft finger locks Kole romps up the ubiquitous limestone band. It's usually a solid crack with solid protection. The final puzzle on the first pitch is the corkscrew squeeze chimney above him. Reminds me of the chimney on WPOD in the California Needles, but shorter.



I followed, cleaning some of the loose blocks Kole avoided. I left Jake some dusty crumbly holds after my trundling. The blocks tend to come out easily and if you aren't careful they'll ruin you and your gear.



Kole slung a large chickenhead/block for an anchor and it was more than suffiicient. The second pitch starts easy 4th class then steepens to slab.



Kole walked past me and the pine tree heading up the blank slab. Without any protection, if one slipped on the slab you could try to fall to your right and have the pine tree save you but it would be ugly.



After Kole's success on the slab (5.8R) I was inspired to lead it and try to find an alternate way up with protection but after looking around on the far left, I gave up and did his unprotected line. I did find protection after the crux. Woo Hoo.



Here you can see Jake at the crux on the second pitch with the pine tree target below.



Finally a new tower summit. Jake pounded in the anchors and now it awaits you!



Better directions will be forthcoming. Sedona has a lot of unclimbed rock and some of it will yield great adventures like this one!


(This post was edited by sonso45 on Nov 26, 2012, 8:21 AM)


gblauer
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Nov 28, 2012, 1:04 PM
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Registered: Oct 3, 2002
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Re: [sonso45] Sedona Tower: Alladins Turban [In reply to]
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Very nice Manny.


sonso45


Dec 8, 2012, 4:08 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Sedona Tower: Alladins Turban [In reply to]
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Here is a view of the west side of the tower:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/121313.html


(This post was edited by sonso45 on Dec 8, 2012, 4:09 PM)


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