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Getting texture on wood holds
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brooklynclimber


Dec 10, 2012, 11:26 AM
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Getting texture on wood holds
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I've decided to try to make some wooden holds, especially the larger pinches and slopers that are expensive in plastic. Getting the shape isn't too hard with various cutting tools, but I'm having trouble with the texture. Sanding produces a surface that's too smooth. I could use a rasp or other tool to get some 'tooth' in the wood, but that would run the risk of splinters. Any ideas?


wivanoff


Dec 10, 2012, 11:47 AM
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Re: [brooklynclimber] Getting texture on wood holds [In reply to]
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sand paint?


granite_grrl


Dec 10, 2012, 11:57 AM
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Re: [brooklynclimber] Getting texture on wood holds [In reply to]
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brooklynclimber wrote:
I've decided to try to make some wooden holds, especially the larger pinches and slopers that are expensive in plastic. Getting the shape isn't too hard with various cutting tools, but I'm having trouble with the texture. Sanding produces a surface that's too smooth. I could use a rasp or other tool to get some 'tooth' in the wood, but that would run the risk of splinters. Any ideas?

Don't try to texture them. They will smooth out on their own regardless from use and the oils in your hands.

Most of the wood holds we have on our home wall are fairly good jugs.


Partner rgold


Dec 10, 2012, 12:12 PM
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I have a Metolius wooden hangboard. The smaller crimps seemed slippery to me, so I added some very shallow grooves cut with a chisel. I'm far less likely to slip off them, and no splinters.

Of course, with slopes and pinches, you'd have to be very careful about the grooves, because you could make gripping too "easy." Thinking "scratches" rather than "grooves" is probably the right way to approach the problem.


acorneau


Dec 10, 2012, 6:11 PM
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Don't sand them. Should be the right texture "au naturale".


edge


Dec 10, 2012, 8:37 PM
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I can think of a handful of ideas for adding texture, but it would help to know what species of wood you are using.


brooklynclimber


Dec 10, 2012, 8:44 PM
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edge wrote:
I can think of a handful of ideas for adding texture, but it would help to know what species of wood you are using.
2x4s - most likely pine or perhaps douglas fir. I'm trying to make larger volumes so I've been gluing multiple peices together.

After cutting to rough shape with table saw and sawzall, edges of the wood are pretty rough, and full of splinters, hence the sanding.


(This post was edited by brooklynclimber on Dec 10, 2012, 8:57 PM)


edge


Dec 10, 2012, 9:08 PM
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brooklynclimber wrote:
edge wrote:
I can think of a handful of ideas for adding texture, but it would help to know what species of wood you are using.
2x4s - most likely pine or perhaps douglas fir. I'm trying to make larger volumes so I've been gluing multiple peices together.

After cutting to rough shape with table saw and sawzall, edges of the wood are pretty rough, and full of splinters, hence the sanding.

For construction grade spruce/pine/fur, I would shape them first with whatever is quickest, then sand smooth with 80 grit to remove splinters. Seems like you have done this already.

Now take anywhere from 6-12 finish nails (6d or 8d) and hold them in a cylinder with the points flat on a table. Tape the outside of the nail cylinder to keep them all in place. Now go over the whole surface of the hold with light hammer blows so that the nail points make 1/16-1/8" deep depressions. Experiment with different strength hammer blows and spacing; get in a rhythm and you'll finish the hold in no time. Hit it lightly with 220x sandpaper and you're good to go, and you can "freshen" the hold up anytime.

Do not add any surface finish.


csiebsen


Dec 12, 2012, 8:00 AM
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Post some pictures of your holds when you get them done. I'd like to see what you came up with.


naitch


Dec 12, 2012, 8:53 AM
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brooklynclimber wrote:
Any ideas?

Yeah...sand with progressively finer grades of sandpaper, finishing with 400 grit then steel wool. Varnish, steel wool, varnish then finish with a furniture paste wax and a good buff. Sly

Seriously, I had a couple walls in the past and just finished with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. They occasionally get polished and I'd just re-sand the surface again. I guess it depend upon how hard or easy you want it as well as what type of rock you normally climb on.


Partner cracklover


Dec 12, 2012, 9:06 AM
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edge wrote:
brooklynclimber wrote:
edge wrote:
I can think of a handful of ideas for adding texture, but it would help to know what species of wood you are using.
2x4s - most likely pine or perhaps douglas fir. I'm trying to make larger volumes so I've been gluing multiple peices together.

After cutting to rough shape with table saw and sawzall, edges of the wood are pretty rough, and full of splinters, hence the sanding.

For construction grade spruce/pine/fur, I would shape them first with whatever is quickest, then sand smooth with 80 grit to remove splinters. Seems like you have done this already.

Now take anywhere from 6-12 finish nails (6d or 8d) and hold them in a cylinder with the points flat on a table. Tape the outside of the nail cylinder to keep them all in place. Now go over the whole surface of the hold with light hammer blows so that the nail points make 1/16-1/8" deep depressions. Experiment with different strength hammer blows and spacing; get in a rhythm and you'll finish the hold in no time. Hit it lightly with 220x sandpaper and you're good to go, and you can "freshen" the hold up anytime.

Do not add any surface finish.

Another option would be to take your sawzall and make light "lines". Mostly parallel surface cuts to say 1/8" deep. Then sand to take off splinters.

GO


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