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first pair of shoes: which?
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chillin_


Dec 16, 2012, 9:05 PM
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first pair of shoes: which?
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I picked up climbing as a hobby this year and have been been climbing for a couple months at my local climbing gym. I've worked my way up to being able to ascend the majority of 5.10's that I try, and I've even begun working on a few 11's. I mostly climb indoor but I'd like to start getting outdoor some more.

A friend of mine has been nice enough to let me borrow his climbing shoes (some five-tens, I'm not sure what style exactly) for this entire past semester, but I feel like I should get a pair of my own now. I've been looking at the following shoes, all sub-$100:

Scarpa Helix: http://www.rei.com/...elix-rock-shoes-mens
Mad Rock Phoenix: http://www.rei.com/...k-phoenix-rock-shoes
La Sportiva Nago: http://www.rei.com/...nago-rock-shoes-mens
Five Ten Coyote: http://www.rei.com/...en-coyote-rock-shoes
Evolv Defy: http://www.rei.com/...-defy-vtr-rock-shoes

Of these I'm not too fond of the five-tens because of their very blunt toe (it's hard to get into some of the smaller footholds, and edging gets ugly). On aesthetics I'd say the scarpas. The evolvs look very flexible/tight which should be a good thing, but in the description it says they have a "comfortable bedroom-slipper-feel lets you climb all day on long multi-pitch routes or at the gym without mashing your toes"... that sounds sketchy to me.

Thoughts? Any advice on which I should choose for my first pair of shoes?


edge


Dec 16, 2012, 9:13 PM
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Re: [chillin_] first pair of shoes: which? [In reply to]
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You really need to try them on before ordering, as different makes fit different shaped feet.

If all things were equal, I would personally go with the Evolv or Sportivas, but will never own Mad Rocks.


dagibbs


Dec 17, 2012, 9:12 PM
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Re: [chillin_] first pair of shoes: which? [In reply to]
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The Nagos are my favourite shoe -- but really, it depends on what fits your foot best. (Oh yeah, the Nagos will, also, bleed dye all over your feet.)


bearbreeder


Dec 17, 2012, 11:25 PM
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Re: [chillin_] first pair of shoes: which? [In reply to]
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whatever fits your foot ...

the nagos are likely the stiffest of the options you listed ...

but it all comes down to fit fit and fit

Cool


NPB


Dec 17, 2012, 11:33 PM
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Re: [edge] first pair of shoes: which? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
You really need to try them on before ordering, as different makes fit different shaped feet.

If all things were equal, I would personally go with the Evolv or Sportivas, but will never own Mad Rocks.

What's the beef with mad rock?

Sorry, I'm a total noob.


Stone0826


Dec 20, 2012, 5:28 PM
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Re: [NPB] first pair of shoes: which? [In reply to]
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I've heard they're crap, but hearing isn't experiencing. I bought a pair of red chili's (corona VCR's) and I don't think I'll ever buy from anyone else. These shoes are the shit.


brinosaur


Dec 28, 2012, 3:26 PM
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Re: [chillin_] first pair of shoes: which? [In reply to]
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Go for the fit above all else. Period.
That being said, some of the Brand-X(ish) shoes tend to be of poorer construction in my experience. I've had bad luck with red chili and Rock Pillars falling apart at the seams due to bad glue, for instance.
Mad Rock is fine. I've climbed with plenty of 5.13 climbers who use the basic velcro model at the gym and crag.


chillin_


Dec 28, 2012, 11:42 PM
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Re: [edge] first pair of shoes: which? [In reply to]
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I did try all of these on, and it was a tough pick between the evolvs and the Scarpas, but I picked the Scarpas. The fit my foot a lot better than the others and in general felt a lot more "supportive".


bernardo78


Feb 10, 2013, 1:33 PM
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Re: [chillin_] first pair of shoes: which? [In reply to]
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My first pair of climbing shoes were the La Sportiva Tarantulas. They didn't break the bank. They fit well. And they are great gym shoes in my opinion. The toebox is fairly round but it was never a problem for me. Edging was pretty solid too. I got the velcro ones, but in the end that wasn't really necessary because I never took them off during a climbing session. The Tarantulaces will get you a much better fit I'm sure. Hope this helps. I moved up to Mirua VS after those and I love them.


jsunmatthews


Feb 10, 2013, 2:09 PM
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Re: [chillin_] first pair of shoes: which? [In reply to]
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Sportivas, all the way. So long as you plan on sticking with it. Not a bad idea to look for used shoes on Craigslist too. I've come into five pairs of Sportiva Miuras over the last couple years, one a plus size for easy climbs, two perfect fits, and one uber tight one for major edging. You're going to have to get them resoled no matter what, but i big fan of the brand.


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