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nick97
Oct 21, 2012, 3:28 PM
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Ive been climbing for almost a year now and Im climbing V5 and 5.11c. I really love the sport. I dropped basketball just to have more time to practice cilmbing. Im at the gym 3 days a week and on my home woodie a coupe days too. Is there anything I can do to get better other than climbing more. Ive already been using a hangboard and its helped quite a bit. I know some people frown upon use of a hangboard for beginners but Ive never stressed myself on one and I try my best to use proper technique. But other than climbing can I do anything else to get better. Maybe running, eating healthier, idk. Any help is really appreciated!
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superchuffer
Oct 21, 2012, 4:20 PM
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each time you go climbing, try to suck at it a little bit less than the time before and before you know it you will be screaming like a stuck pig when you fall off 15c.
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bearbreeder
Oct 21, 2012, 5:35 PM
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first piece of advice ... look for people who climb BETTER than you ... or have in the past ... and ask THEM for advice ... or if they dont are at least coaches/professionals in the sport ...
the flip side is to generally ignore those especially on the intrawebs who climb substantially worse than you either because they lack the desire, or are simply poor climbers looking to show off .... you wont get very much from listening to them
thats the best piece of advice that was given to me 
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SylviaSmile
Oct 21, 2012, 10:34 PM
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nick97 wrote: Ive been climbing for almost a year now and Im climbing V5 and 5.11c. I really love the sport. I dropped basketball just to have more time to practice cilmbing. Im at the gym 3 days a week and on my home woodie a coupe days too. Is there anything I can do to get better other than climbing more. Ive already been using a hangboard and its helped quite a bit. I know some people frown upon use of a hangboard for beginners but Ive never stressed myself on one and I try my best to use proper technique. But other than climbing can I do anything else to get better. Maybe running, eating healthier, idk. Any help is really appreciated!
Avoid RC.com . . . others have said it and it is true
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nick97
Oct 21, 2012, 11:55 PM
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yeah man ive started to notice that. A lot of sarcastic and non-helpful replies come from here. Im just gonna ask some climbers at my gym.
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bentgate03
Oct 22, 2012, 3:28 PM
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Or try to post in the correct forum next time.
oh look at that, two below this one Technique and Training forum.
But i agree in general, be wary of whose advice you take.
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granite_grrl
Oct 22, 2012, 5:01 PM
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nick97 wrote: Ive been climbing for almost a year now and Im climbing V5 and 5.11c. I really love the sport. I dropped basketball just to have more time to practice cilmbing. Im at the gym 3 days a week and on my home woodie a coupe days too. Is there anything I can do to get better other than climbing more. Ive already been using a hangboard and its helped quite a bit. I know some people frown upon use of a hangboard for beginners but Ive never stressed myself on one and I try my best to use proper technique. But other than climbing can I do anything else to get better. Maybe running, eating healthier, idk. Any help is really appreciated!
You need to get better at self analysis apparently. Without knowing you or watching you climb it's nearly impossible to give you advice on how to get better. What kind of routes do you have problems with? What kinds of cruxes shut you down? What styles are the most difficult for you?
so my advice: Start paying attention to your climbing. Discover your weaknesses and work on them.
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lena_chita
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Oct 22, 2012, 6:25 PM
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nick97 wrote: Ive been climbing for almost a year now and Im climbing V5 and 5.11c. I really love the sport. I dropped basketball just to have more time to practice cilmbing. Im at the gym 3 days a week and on my home woodie a coupe days too. Is there anything I can do to get better other than climbing more. Ive already been using a hangboard and its helped quite a bit. I know some people frown upon use of a hangboard for beginners but Ive never stressed myself on one and I try my best to use proper technique. But other than climbing can I do anything else to get better. Maybe running, eating healthier, idk. Any help is really appreciated!
If you are climbing V5 consistently, and it is really V5, then you should be climbing harder than 11c routes. So if you want to improve on roped climbing, work your endurance/power-endurance, and you should be sending mid-12s at least, within couple months.
Other than that, the advice is always the same: identify your weaknesses, and work on improving them. Without seeing you climb, how can anybody know?
Oh, and I am moving this thread to Technique and Traning forum now.
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Syd
Oct 27, 2012, 3:37 AM
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SylviaSmile wrote: Avoid RC.com . . . others have said it and it is true
You're kidding !? I've started visiting here because of some of the utter ratbags on chockstone.org By contrast people here seem good natured.
(This post was edited by Syd on Oct 27, 2012, 7:38 AM)
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SylviaSmile
Oct 27, 2012, 5:48 AM
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Syd wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: Avoid RC.com . . . others have said it and it is true You're kidding !? I've started visiting hear because of some of the utter ratbags on chockstone.org By contrast people here seem good natured.
That is sad!
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Syd
Oct 27, 2012, 8:07 AM
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nick97 wrote: Ive been climbing for almost a year now and Im climbing V5 and 5.11c.
V5 and 5.11c after less than 12 months is quite impressive. I assume you've had someone coaching you in technique ? All the young blokes I've seen would be 2 or 3 grades lower at that point.
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JAB
Nov 1, 2012, 1:30 PM
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You have climbed a very short time, so increasing your already large training time will probably only lead to injury. There are 3 things you can do:
1) Lose weight (especially if you are overweight)
2) Train more smartly
3) Find better partners
For 2 and 3 advice was already given and 1 is obvious enough. Personally I would go with 3 at this moment. The people you now climb with will probably be the same people you climb with 5 years from now. If they aren't as motivated or willing to push themselves as you, the risk is much higher that you will adapt to them instead of the other way around (since that is much easier).
If you are born 97 you might still be youg enough to join some climbing club with a team and coach and everything. That might help a lot!
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mr.tastycakes
Nov 1, 2012, 2:47 PM
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JAB wrote: If you are born 97 you might still be youg enough to join some climbing club with a team and coach and everything. That might help a lot!
This.
Shit. I wish there was an adult team I could join...not so much for competitions, just for the coaching and training.
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nick97
Nov 2, 2012, 3:24 PM
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Yeah thanks for your advice. I am on a comp team at my local gym and it really helps. I think getting better partners will really help because the ones Im with arent really motivated. I dont know if I should try to lose weight because Im 6"2 and 155 so Im sort of lanky as it is :)
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Masterkush
Nov 14, 2012, 6:41 PM
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excellent read
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surfstar
Nov 16, 2012, 12:58 AM
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Syd wrote: nick97 wrote: Ive been climbing for almost a year now and Im climbing V5 and 5.11c. V5 and 5.11c after less than 12 months is quite impressive. I assume you've had someone coaching you in technique ? All the young blokes I've seen would be 2 or 3 grades lower at that point.
Never mentioned outside, though.
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Kartessa
Nov 16, 2012, 6:21 AM
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Syd wrote: SylviaSmile wrote: Avoid RC.com . . . others have said it and it is true You're kidding !? I've started visiting here because of some of the utter ratbags on chockstone.org By contrast people here seem good natured.
Oooohh?
You'll now find me on chockstone.org... F*** you RC.Com
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Syd
Nov 16, 2012, 8:58 PM
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Interesting how so many try to depict themselves as hard nosed, tough guy heroes.
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1234climb
Dec 16, 2012, 11:52 PM
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More important than grades is technique. Quiet feet, smooth movements, static moves vs. dynamic whenever possible, and really being critical and observant of your movement and climbing in general. Once your technique is spot proof, then climbing harder grades will become easier and you will notice a great difference in your climbing and training. Working on technique is very difficult (and who knows, you may be already very smooth) but it definitely pays off. It sounds very cliche, I know, but climbers who have excellent technique are recognized and, no doubt about it, will get you further in the climbing world, if that's your goal.
(This post was edited by 1234climb on Dec 17, 2012, 12:15 AM)
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shotwell
Dec 17, 2012, 1:07 AM
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1234climb wrote: More important than grades is technique. Quiet feet, smooth movements, static moves vs. dynamic whenever possible, and really being critical and observant of your movement and climbing in general. Once your technique is spot proof, then climbing harder grades will become easier and you will notice a great difference in your climbing and training. Working on technique is very difficult (and who knows, you may be already very smooth) but it definitely pays off. It sounds very cliche, I know, but climbers who have excellent technique are recognized and, no doubt about it, will get you further in the climbing world, if that's your goal.
You can be smooth and dynamic. As a matter of fact, you'll eventually need to be to continue to improve. The rest I agree with.
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crackmeup
Dec 17, 2012, 2:58 AM
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nick97 wrote: Ive been climbing for almost a year now and Im climbing V5 and 5.11c. ... Maybe running, eating healthier, idk. Any help is really appreciated!
I'll add one word to everything that's been said: patience.
Oh, and read The Self-Coached Climber if you can.
http://www.amazon.com/...rmance/dp/0811733394
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namoclimber
Dec 29, 2012, 9:46 PM
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Motivation is number one here. V5 very good for a year.
I will second trying to find people stronger then you that know what they are doing technically so they can find multiple ways for you to achieve moves and push you along too.
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deltav
Dec 30, 2012, 3:09 PM
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Ambiguous comments like "work on technique" are useless if you don't give specifics as to how.
to the OP: I have been a coach for many years, PM me and I will give you some suggestions.
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