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Re-building lost muscle
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jkjared


Jan 1, 2013, 2:24 PM
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Re-building lost muscle
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I climbed every other day for 2 years strait. then last summer, i slept almost the whole summer, feeling really sick. i was then diegnossed with Chrons desease, anemia, and pneumonia. im mostly healthy now. but trust me, i lost a lot of muscle. i went from doing 20 pullups in a go, to barely being able to do 1. what should i do to ge in shape again!


jjgoodboy


Jan 1, 2013, 4:41 PM
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Hi jkjared,

Wow! you really got hit hard. I'm sorry about that.

Let me reassure you it is not hopeless. I had a back injury 10 years ago that made my left leg go numb and atrophy. I couldn't walk. But now i'm back to climbing better than i did before that.

The best advice i have came from Ben Moon. "Leave the workout still feeling strong" What that means is push yourself but not to the absolute limits where you exhaust yourself. Then rest enough befor the next climbing day so that your body fully recovers.

As frustrating as it may seem the truth is you only get stronger during the rest phase after a workout. So the formula for getting really strong is APPROPRIATE INTENSITY workouts followed by SUFFICIENT REST.

If you want more specific ideas on workouts let me know I'll be happy to help.

jjgoodboy


jkjared


Jan 1, 2013, 4:45 PM
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Thanks for the response! I would love to know more specifics on workouts. I have a Road bike set up to be stationary, and ive got a pullup bar, the kind that goes on the door frame. I also have to climbing holds that ive been meaning to mount to a board to make a hang board. What do you suggest is a good workout? im quite young, so i can take intensity.


jkjared


Jan 1, 2013, 4:54 PM
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Also, before gaining a lot of weight, and loosing all the muscle. i had quite the six pack going. i dont care too much about having a six pack, but i would like to regain the core strength again.


jjgoodboy


Jan 1, 2013, 5:26 PM
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Well to begin with let me emphasize that climbing is not about one or two big muscles. It's about teaching your body to automatically coordinate the contraction and relaxation of several hundred individual muscles. You know that of course. That is why you mention interest in improving core strength.

I think that outside of actual climbing core strength should be the main focus of strength training in climbers. With climbing strong core will automatically lead to greater strength in other areas.


I would suggest planks for starters.

1) Simply do a pushup and hold at the top for 30 to 60 seconds. Make sure to keep your body perfectly ridged. No stink-bug butt up in the air.

2)side planks are the same but you rest on your elbow/forearm and foot, facing sideways.


with both use a stop watch and record in a journal the times. you can do 2-4 sets of each. For some reason the core muscles seem to be able to deal with workouts every day unlike most of the rest of the body. Try in subsequent workouts to increase the time you hold in the plank by a few seconds. If your times start decreasing from one day to the next you are not resting enough. Just add a day off and then go at it again.


Be modest

by the way I'm working on a new website all about helping climbers improve. It's not really up and running yet but keep checking I plan on getting the basics goinng in the next month. GoodboyGrips.com

What kind of climbing do you mostly participate in and what level are you at?


jjgoodboy


jkjared


Jan 1, 2013, 7:21 PM
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thanks for the tips! when i was climbing last year. i was climbing 5.9s. or bouldering v1s i mostly climb indoor. but my brother lives in newpaltz, so when ever i go and see him, i hit up the gunks.


SE_climber


Jan 2, 2013, 1:38 PM
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Yikes! Two of my cousins have Crohns--for one it's quite severe. I know for both of them what makes or breaks their athletic endeavors is their diet. I know you may be focused on specific work out advice, but I would suggest also working with your doctor and/or a nutritionist to get your diet just right. You'll need to strike a solid balance between keeping flare ups at bay and getting enough of the protein, carbs, etc. to support the energy expenditure needed to re-build your muscle strength. Tricky, but it can totally be done.

You may also want to see if a climbing gym in your area offers yoga classes (usually free or at a reduced cost for gym members). Yoga will obviously help you with flexibility, balance, and strengthening your core, but it can also reduce stress (which can be a contributing factor in Crohns flare ups). If you don't like yoga, forget it--the best work out strikes the balance between what you need and what you enjoy.


jkjared


Jan 4, 2013, 6:20 AM
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I am very curious about diet aswel. Do you know anything else about their diets?


SE_climber


Jan 4, 2013, 7:47 AM
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One of my cousins (for whom the crohns was less severe) is living and working in Italy right now. She's noticed a great improvement in her condition and credits the Mediterranean diet she naturally started eating when she moved. She's not eating processed foods (sweets, deep fried stuff, fast food, soda pop etc.) like she used to here in the states.

It's hard to give specific advice, though, because it comes down to whatever bothers you, stay away from it. Because every time your crohns flares up, it will hinder your ability to process and absorb all the protien, vitamins, and minerals your body needs. If you feel awful after eating spicy Mexican food, don't eat spicy Mexican. In fact, avoid other spicy foods as well. If what you ate was loaded with beans and cheese, avoid those things too. Once you feel better, you can try introducing beans and cheese into your diet again.

A starting point for building a good diet (for anyone really) would be to make sure you're getting a lot of protein--stuff like chicken, lean red meat (bison is really good), fish, tofu, Greek yogurt, and eggs (stay away from the yolks if you have a family history of heart disease or high cholesterol).

And high nutrient dense fruits and veggies--carrots, sweet potatoes, purple potatoes, kale, spinach, asparagus, tomatoes, avocado etc.

Gentle grains can also be good--pasta, white rice, whole wheat bread (not whole grain--you'll want to avoid whole grains like flax, corn, nuts, etc. even stuff with edible seeds could be a problem--like the seeds on strawberries).

I hope this helps. Best of luck to you!


jkjared


Jan 6, 2013, 7:11 PM
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Thanks for the advice! if any of you have workout tips... PLEASE POST THEM! thanks. before when i got into climbing, i was doing 8 minute abs, and loved it. and it worked really well. not i really dont have the motivation to do it. so im looking for a new routine.


fingerincrevice


Jan 10, 2013, 6:07 PM
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Im sorry to hear about your illness / loss of strength, I feel your pain. A few years ago I broke my forearm in a fight, had to have a 7 inch plate and 6 screws put in. When my arm came out of the cast up to my shoulder, all of the muscle in my right arm was completely gone. it was just bone, skin and metal. It made me sick to look at it. But I just started training and working out and rebuilding. The most important part of any training program is consistency. Start training, stick with it, and dont be discouraged. Good luck!


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