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Footwork advice on ceilings and roofs
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Wuddy


Dec 23, 2012, 8:57 PM
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Footwork advice on ceilings and roofs
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I just realized that on long roof routes my footwork technique is lacking. Can anyone give me some movies, climbs or advice that would help give me an idea of what I need to do besides heel hooks and heel/toe cams?


rhythm164


Dec 24, 2012, 4:15 AM
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Re: [Wuddy] Footwork advice on ceilings and roofs [In reply to]
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start working your core.


gunkiemike


Dec 24, 2012, 7:40 AM
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rhythm164 wrote:
start working your core.

^ this

If you're talking indoor climbing, be always on the lookout for kneebars and "bicycle" moves (one foot pushes down against a hold while the other pulls upwards against it with the top of your toe). Look for slots in large holds where you can slide your toes in sideways.


crackmeup


Dec 24, 2012, 6:13 PM
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Wuddy wrote:
Can anyone give me some movie

Watch the footwork in this video, one of the hardest roof climbs in the world (The Wheel of Life):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3ZnfqPVJlc

Like others said, roof climbing takes core strength. Of course, the less your feet cut the more you save that precious strength. You could make an inventory of useful moves and try them with progressively more difficult boulder problems.

One thing I do before climbing a roof (any problem that is hard for me, really) is to try to imagine what my body will look like making the moves. Only when I have a good idea of what I will try, I jump on the problem. I'm often wrong, but I learn from repeating that process.

Observe that good climbers are very precise, so they can move very fast through difficult sections in order to minimize the pump. Practice precise foot placement at an angle that's not so steep, and get used to doing it quickly. You don't want to be readjusting a foot for several seconds while your body weight is mostly supported by your arms.


granite_grrl


Dec 27, 2012, 10:52 AM
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Re: [Wuddy] Footwork advice on ceilings and roofs [In reply to]
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Wuddy wrote:
I just realized that on long roof routes my footwork technique is lacking. Can anyone give me some movies, climbs or advice that would help give me an idea of what I need to do besides heel hooks and heel/toe cams?

Maximize rotation. Turn your body (hips) into the wall using drop knees and such. When reaching roll your shoulders to minimize lockoff.

Climbing roofs is not like climbing the monkey bars at the playground, last thing you want is to stay square to the wall.


granite_grrl


Dec 27, 2012, 11:04 AM
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granite_grrl wrote:
Wuddy wrote:
I just realized that on long roof routes my footwork technique is lacking. Can anyone give me some movies, climbs or advice that would help give me an idea of what I need to do besides heel hooks and heel/toe cams?

Maximize rotation. Turn your body (hips) into the wall using drop knees and such. When reaching roll your shoulders to minimize lockoff.

Climbing roofs is not like climbing the monkey bars at the playground, last thing you want is to stay square to the wall.

This is a video for drytool training, but it illustraits what I mean about twisting your hips and rotating your shoulders to improve your reach:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUTsFJ5q30E


Partner camhead


Jan 3, 2013, 6:44 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Footwork advice on ceilings and roofs [In reply to]
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All great advice here. I've got one more obvious piece that nobody has mentioned: Don't ever get too stretched out. More than on vertical or even overhung climbs, there are times on horizontal roofs that it is advantageous to get your feet really close to your hands. The worse your handholds are, the less likely you'll want to be fully extended. Full extension both requires more core strength, and also results in more violent swings should your feet cut. Stay crouched, if that makes sense.


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