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Stone0826


Jan 6, 2013, 10:53 AM
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Rope issues...
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I bought a edelweiss element 70m bipattern dry rope about 2yrs ago. My rope seems unnaturally stiff and it has small bends in it. When passing through a belay device it handles like a sheath covered braided rope. I understand that this rope is a 1 over 1 sheath braid and they tend to be stiffer but I didn't think it would be this bad. I coil, wash, store, and protect from edges properly and do everything necessary to keep it in good shape. I never hang store it or store it coiled, I flake it when needed, and wash it properly. I don't lead climb with it and its maybe had 50'ish climbs "due to its handling features". I was conversing with a local climbing shop employee and he said he would retire it. I would just hate to pay $200 for a hand full of climbs. I've wrote the company and I'm waiting for a response. I was planing on buying a pair of there extrem doubles but now I'm a bit skeptical of the companies products. Any insight on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


bearbreeder


Jan 6, 2013, 11:39 AM
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Re: [Stone0826] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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was it this way when new?


Stone0826


Jan 6, 2013, 11:47 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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Not near as bad as it is now, it's a pain to lower in a grigri but feeds pretty smooth.


bearbreeder


Jan 6, 2013, 11:58 AM
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Re: [Stone0826] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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some ropes get stiffer with time ... mammut being one of them as well

ive found that stiff ropes generally dont get any softer ...

if you want a known "soft" rope ... a lot of beals are well known to stay decently soft ...

i generally buy the cheapest "soft" rope i can find for general use

im also a firm believer in not spending $$$$ on a rope ... because as you found out they can stiffen up, or youll destroy em anyways with enough use

if it still feeds through a gri gri smoothly, i would be fine leading on it


Stone0826


Jan 6, 2013, 12:02 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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Awesome, thanks for the comments, I think I might go hit hit up sand rock next week and just use the crap out of it. Maybe not using it as much as others is what's wrong with it?


bearbreeder


Jan 6, 2013, 12:09 PM
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Re: [Stone0826] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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possibly ... you know the history of the rope ... its never been exposed to chemicals, its been store properly, and hasnt taken any lead falls

if theres nothing obviously wrong with the rope other than a bit of stiffness then id be fine using it ...

now dead spots, or spots that wont feed through .. id be more wary ...

but a rope that has been used for TRing 50 times and stored properly, id be fine

i just use my ropes till they die ... with me it takes about a 6 mo - year ...


Stone0826


Jan 6, 2013, 12:12 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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It's funny you said mammut too, I've heard a lot of good things about their ropes & that was gonna be my next buy. I might just stick with bluewater ropes, there's nothing wrong with them, they're decently priced, and they handle well. I just figured I would branch out and try some new stuff.


bearbreeder


Jan 6, 2013, 12:23 PM
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Re: [Stone0826] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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for thinner ropes mammuts are the ones to buy for abrasion resistance ... their 9.5mm infinity is excellent for multi and the smaller sizes feed easier naturally where a bit of stiffness isnt as much an issue ... for 9.8mm+ mammuts are quite stiff IMO, i can just get a new tusk to feed through my smart, and the galaxy gets very stiff after a year or so

handling is an extremely variable thing that depends on the brand, sizing and particular rope ...

as you can see below i owned 5 mammuts (2 8mm, 2 9.5mm, 10mm) last summer and 2 tendon 10.2mm

and the tendon, despite being the thicker rope handled better than the 9.5/10mm mammuts ...

generally the ropes with the "softer" catches handle better IME ... known ropes with "harder" catches such as maxim and some mammuts tend to be quite stiff

course you can always buy from REI or backcountry and call it a day ... as they dont give a damn if you return it Tongue




(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jan 6, 2013, 12:27 PM)


Stone0826


Jan 6, 2013, 12:49 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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I appreciate the detailed responses and opinions, it's good to get good feedback other than "you're gonna die"


And here it comes.....


dan2see


Jan 6, 2013, 6:27 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
...

Of all the items on display, which one is BB's most expensive climbing gear?


socalclimber


Jan 6, 2013, 6:51 PM
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Re: [Stone0826] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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I've owned just about every rope around. Edelweiss are great, but the do have a tendency to be stiff. But they are burly as hell. I had a couple of stratos I loved, beat the shit out of, and they lasted me almost 4 years.

Of all the ropes I have owned, the Sterling's are the best (my opinion). For my guide ropes, I am currently running New England. I just bought a 654 foot spool of the stuff and it is excellent.

Your mileage may vary.


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jan 6, 2013, 7:03 PM)


socalclimber


Jan 6, 2013, 7:08 PM
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Re: [dan2see] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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dan2see wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
...
[image]http://i45.tinypic.com/2rqhh0n.jpg
[/image]

Of all the items on display, which one is BB's most expensive climbing gear?

The car, because that's what get's him to the crag...


bearbreeder


Jan 6, 2013, 8:33 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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and thus the most important ...

Wink


healyje


Jan 6, 2013, 10:13 PM
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Re: [Stone0826] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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I actually only like heavier sheathed ropes with the Mammut Supersafe, Tusk, Tendon 9.8, and NE Maxim Glider 9.9 all with handling characteristics roughly in the ballpark with one another.


qwert


Jan 7, 2013, 12:44 PM
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Re: [Stone0826] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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Stone0826 wrote:
I don't lead climb with it and its maybe had 50'ish climbs "due to its handling features".
so you dont lead on it anymore because of its handling, or you never ever actually lead on it, and from the beginning it was only a toprope rope?

If the latter, that might explain why its "wrecked". Toproping - while not producing large loads - puts an imense amount of wear on ropes. The best way to wreck a new rope is to take it toproping. (alternatively you can of course also rappel with a munter hitch with the brake strands pointing down Laugh)

qwert


Stone0826


Jan 8, 2013, 7:31 PM
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Re: [qwert] Rope issues... [In reply to]
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So how exactly would i "wreck" a rope by top roping? I protect it from drag and edges and I don't drag people up the rock... So I'm a bit confused at how proper technique and setup would hurt a rope. I'm sure companies would make a rope that could withstand 50+ TR climbs.... Just saying. And I understand the point of it passing through the anchor and doubling back to the belayer & causing a hard angle in the rope could cause kinks or bends, but wouldn't all that happen on a lead fall and putting more pressure on the core and more likely hinder the ropes performance? Idk maybe you know something I don't.


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