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c4 camalot size overlap
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ben123324


Dec 15, 2012, 8:21 AM
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c4 camalot size overlap
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hi guys, i've been learning trad from one of my friends who's been climbing for a long time. recently i've been building a trad rack. i like metolius cams (powercams) a lot, but a family member gave me a few C4's for my birthday.

there's one C4 that overlaps too much with my existing cams, but the other is fine. I want to return the size 2, and keep the .5. when i return it, should i get the .3 or .4? i plan on getting both eventually, but the .3 overlaps with the .5, so should i just get the .4 later? or the other way around.

thanks!


moose_droppings


Dec 15, 2012, 4:15 PM
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Re: [ben123324] c4 camalot size overlap [In reply to]
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ben123324 wrote:
hi guys, i've been learning trad from one of my friends who's been climbing for a long time. recently i've been building a trad rack. i like metolius cams (powercams) a lot, but a family member gave me a few C4's for my birthday.

there's one C4 that overlaps too much with my existing cams, but the other is fine. I want to return the size 2, and keep the .5. when i return it, should i get the .3 or .4? i plan on getting both eventually, but the .3 overlaps with the .5, so should i just get the .4 later? or the other way around.

thanks!

Personally, I'd get the BD .75.
Eventually you'll want a set of BD's and most start with the .5-3.

Edit: or keep the 2 and fill in with the rest of the BD's later.
Want size cracks do you climb the most.



(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Dec 15, 2012, 4:17 PM)


ben123324


Dec 15, 2012, 7:29 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] c4 camalot size overlap [In reply to]
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The problem is that I already have metolius 5-8 and the bd 2 falls right in the middle. I'd like to have a full set of bd's but I only have so much money. I ended up getting the .4 after actually comparing the two in the store and seeing the difference in the ranges of the .5 and .3. But at least now I know to get the .75: it slipped my mind actually.

As for what size cracks, they vary. I climb trad at crow hill Massachusetts and you definitely need a range. It's not like they're all fingercracks or fist jams. They have fluctualtions etc.

Thanks though!


sween345


Dec 16, 2012, 6:00 AM
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 ben,

This should help http://www.mountainproject.com/...07687142#a_107688667


Gmburns2000


Dec 16, 2012, 8:29 AM
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ben123324 wrote:
The problem is that I already have metolius 5-8 and the bd 2 falls right in the middle. I'd like to have a full set of bd's but I only have so much money. I ended up getting the .4 after actually comparing the two in the store and seeing the difference in the ranges of the .5 and .3. But at least now I know to get the .75: it slipped my mind actually.

As for what size cracks, they vary. I climb trad at crow hill Massachusetts and you definitely need a range. It's not like they're all fingercracks or fist jams. They have fluctualtions etc.

Thanks though!

The .75 will be a nice addition when you start to get out to other areas around the Northeast. It's a particularly helpful size at the 'Gunks.


granite_grrl


Dec 16, 2012, 9:04 AM
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Re: [ben123324] c4 camalot size overlap [In reply to]
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ben123324 wrote:
The problem is that I already have metolius 5-8 and the bd 2 falls right in the middle. I'd like to have a full set of bd's but I only have so much money. I ended up getting the .4 after actually comparing the two in the store and seeing the difference in the ranges of the .5 and .3. But at least now I know to get the .75: it slipped my mind actually.

As for what size cracks, they vary. I climb trad at crow hill Massachusetts and you definitely need a range. It's not like they're all fingercracks or fist jams. They have fluctualtions etc.

Thanks though!

In my experience The Metolious cams are better in the small sizes, BD for the larger.

I wouldn't go any smaller than a .75 BD (though that's fairly close to a #5 Power Cam), I just find that for .5 and smaller the head is too wide.

IMO - either keep the #2 (which is a nice piece of gear) or if you're returning for something small get more Metolious and keep your rack a little more consistent.

BTW - Yellow TCU is my money piece.


theextremist04


Dec 19, 2012, 7:10 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] c4 camalot size overlap [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
ben123324 wrote:
The problem is that I already have metolius 5-8 and the bd 2 falls right in the middle. I'd like to have a full set of bd's but I only have so much money. I ended up getting the .4 after actually comparing the two in the store and seeing the difference in the ranges of the .5 and .3. But at least now I know to get the .75: it slipped my mind actually.

As for what size cracks, they vary. I climb trad at crow hill Massachusetts and you definitely need a range. It's not like they're all fingercracks or fist jams. They have fluctualtions etc.

Thanks though!

In my experience The Metolious cams are better in the small sizes, BD for the larger.

I wouldn't go any smaller than a .75 BD (though that's fairly close to a #5 Power Cam), I just find that for .5 and smaller the head is too wide.

IMO - either keep the #2 (which is a nice piece of gear) or if you're returning for something small get more Metolious and keep your rack a little more consistent.

BTW - Yellow TCU is my money piece.
It depends on what you're doing- I find I use the .5 BD a lot in horizontals (which it works fine in) but I could see how in less splitter stuff it would be too wide. I definitely wouldn't go any smaller than that in C4s though.


ski.ninja


Jan 6, 2013, 12:53 PM
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Re: [theextremist04] c4 camalot size overlap [In reply to]
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My own trad rack was definitely built around the kind of placements needed and what I happened to be climbing at the time. As it happens, I wound up with a double set of C4s .4-3, a set of TCUs, and a handful of hand/fist size WC Heliums for uncommon or deeper placements. As it's been said, single axle cams will fit better into smaller placements (fingers,) and double axle cams (C4s) will be more stable and have a wider range larger placements. The Heliums are single axle, and can roll if not placed delicately, but the size offsets with the C4 range so that something that may be over/under-cammed with one will be closer to ideal with another.

Your own rack will grow the same way. Some routes will require specific pieces in specific places, others can be approached with a decent array of sizes without much pre-planning. Be sure to try other peoples' gear for variety.


5.samadhi


Jul 21, 2013, 6:50 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] c4 camalot size overlap [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
ben123324 wrote:
BTW - Yellow TCU is my money piece.
yellow TCU is money, honey! Cool


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