Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Should i retire my rope?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


mattheww


Jan 6, 2013, 9:46 PM
Post #1 of 14 (10157 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 16, 2001
Posts: 121

Should i retire my rope?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have a Blue Water Energizer 10mm rope that i climbed with for a couple years on the weekends. 50/50 sport leads and toprope. Rope still looks good, no fraying, flat spots etc... only slight wear on outer sheath.

My question is... it's been stored in a rope bag in the closet for the past 6 years. I've decided to start climbing again and was wondering if it should be retired due to age...


bearbreeder


Jan 6, 2013, 9:52 PM
Post #2 of 14 (10150 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [mattheww] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

i would use it personally ... if it was stored properly, is still stretchy under load and is in good condition id be fine on it

but thats a decision youll need to make yourself Wink

http://www.alunrichardson.co.uk/...g%20pdfs/ropes17.pdf

http://www.theuiaa.org/...f_Climbing_Ropes.pdf


mattheww


Jan 6, 2013, 10:04 PM
Post #3 of 14 (10128 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 16, 2001
Posts: 121

Re: [bearbreeder] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for your response and the links. I feel comfortable using it, since I know what's it's been through and how it's been stored. Just wanted a second opinion...


ski.ninja


Jan 6, 2013, 10:18 PM
Post #4 of 14 (10117 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2008
Posts: 123

Re: [mattheww] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Given the age and the fact that you've worked it a bit, maybe use it for top-roping and get yourself a shiny new lead line. Does it pass the pinch test?


mattheww


Jan 7, 2013, 12:07 AM
Post #5 of 14 (10085 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 16, 2001
Posts: 121

Re: [ski.ninja] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes, it passes the pinch test. I can easily put my index finger through the loop when it's pinched


ski.ninja


Jan 7, 2013, 12:36 AM
Post #6 of 14 (10075 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2008
Posts: 123

Re: [mattheww] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mattheww wrote:
Yes, it passes the pinch test. I can easily put my index finger through the loop when it's pinched

That's good. Don't lead on it anymore.


fingerincrevice


Jan 9, 2013, 4:08 AM
Post #7 of 14 (9952 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 13, 2012
Posts: 14

Re: [ski.ninja] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

better safe than sorry be careful with it, and inspect as much as possible until it has proven itself. Even then, keep an eye on it ;)


NCcrew


Jan 9, 2013, 4:41 PM
Post #8 of 14 (9863 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 24, 2010
Posts: 12

Re: [fingerincrevice] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've been lurking for a while, but here is something I wasn't able to find. Can someone explain the pinch test? I have a few older ropes that I have been debating retiring and would appreciate help deciding.


Timothy.Klein


Jan 29, 2013, 6:16 PM
Post #9 of 14 (9485 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 28, 2012
Posts: 2

Re: [bearbreeder] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks a lot for those links, bearbreeder. I was vaguely aware of the fact that ropes age better than we give them credit for, but it is great to see it spelled out.


Syd


Jan 30, 2013, 10:23 AM
Post #10 of 14 (9402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 300

Re: [Timothy.Klein] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Timothy.Klein wrote:
Thanks a lot for those links, bearbreeder.
me too.

"if you want to break a climbing rope you must cut it over a sharp edge, corrode it with acid"


caughtinside


Jan 30, 2013, 5:15 PM
Post #11 of 14 (9351 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603

Re: [NCcrew] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

NCcrew wrote:
I've been lurking for a while, but here is something I wasn't able to find. Can someone explain the pinch test? I have a few older ropes that I have been debating retiring and would appreciate help deciding.


I don't know if it's an official test or anythign, but if you pinch your rope between thumb and forefinger and it feels really flat or weird compared to other spots on the rope its worth considering chopping or retiring it.

Personally, I typically get these spots about 10-15 from the end of the rope... which works out to a few feet above where I tie in. I'll usually pinch it to feel how it is in the fuzzier spots that develop on the sheath.


jsunmatthews


Feb 11, 2013, 2:29 AM
Post #12 of 14 (9000 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 18, 2005
Posts: 89

Re: [mattheww] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Personally I retire a rope from lead climbing every two years regardless of where it is stored (I climb a lot, but still). You can get a new blue water for $130 if you shop around. If you don't think your life is worth $130......Come on, it's the one piece that isn't redundant, so why risk even a one in a million chance when you can avoid it for less than the average monthly cell phone bill these days?


redlude97


Feb 11, 2013, 5:21 AM
Post #13 of 14 (8966 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990

Re: [jsunmatthews] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jsunmatthews wrote:
Personally I retire a rope from lead climbing every two years regardless of where it is stored (I climb a lot, but still). You can get a new blue water for $130 if you shop around. If you don't think your life is worth $130......Come on, it's the one piece that isn't redundant, so why risk even a one in a million chance when you can avoid it for less than the average monthly cell phone bill these days?
Ship those over this way....


jsunmatthews


Feb 11, 2013, 3:44 PM
Post #14 of 14 (8918 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 18, 2005
Posts: 89

Re: [redlude97] Should i retire my rope? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

haha, didn't say I get RID of it, just that I stop leading on it. =)


(This post was edited by jsunmatthews on Feb 11, 2013, 3:44 PM)


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook