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Stoney Point bolt anchors
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Largeman


Jan 8, 2013, 11:31 PM
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Stoney Point bolt anchors
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Hello would like some help.

I like to climb at Stoney Point in California. Some of the bolt on the top of the rock require you to bring your own hangers and nuts to set up a top rope.

Does anyone know what size of hardware I need?

I believe the bolts are larger than 3/8".

Also does anyone have a recommendation of what hangers I should buy?


healyje


Jan 9, 2013, 2:35 AM
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Re: [Largeman] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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You might ask over here.


socalclimber


Jan 9, 2013, 2:44 AM
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Re: [Largeman] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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You need to stop whatever you are planning. You clearly do not understand the nature of the beast. You will create a firestorm if you start bolting there. Stoney Point is what it is. I started climbing there over 20 years ago and I can assure you that bolting anything there will cause problems.

For starters, the rock is very fragile sandstone. It doesn't handle bolts well. I always managed to get good anchors with slings and gear. In some cases glue in's were used for the older bolts. They hold better. Ask around before you start anything.

Please do not do this. It is clear you do not know what you are doing. Get yourself some 50 foot chunks of webbing or 10 mil static line. Learn the area and the setups. You'll be fine.

Good luck!


healyje


Jan 9, 2013, 4:48 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
You will create a firestorm if you start bolting there.
Socal, I don't believe he's talking about bolting anything, but is rather under the impression there are a bunch of hangerless anchor bolts about that he needs to bring hangers and nuts to use so he's asking what size to get.


socalclimber


Jan 9, 2013, 5:17 AM
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Re: [healyje] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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The sizes vary widely out there. You could be right, but I would rather nip that one in the butt before issues start. It's happened before. Complete with chopping and near fist fights.


csproul


Jan 9, 2013, 5:22 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
You need to stop whatever you are planning. You clearly do not understand the nature of the beast. You will create a firestorm if you start bolting there. Stoney Point is what it is. I started climbing there over 20 years ago and I can assure you that bolting anything there will cause problems.

For starters, the rock is very fragile sandstone. It doesn't handle bolts well. I always managed to get good anchors with slings and gear. In some cases glue in's were used for the older bolts. They hold better. Ask around before you start anything.

Please do not do this. It is clear you do not know what you are doing. Get yourself some 50 foot chunks of webbing or 10 mil static line. Learn the area and the setups. You'll be fine.

Good luck!
Did you actually bother to read the OP or did you jump to respond as soon as you saw the word "bolts"?


Largeman


Jan 9, 2013, 9:06 AM
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Re: [healyje] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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Thanks Healyje, Your absolutely right. I have no intention of putting up any bolts. I know that I am not qualified for that.

I'm pretty sure the bolts are larger that 3/8"

So are they going to be 1/2" or 12mm or 14mm?


socalclimber


Jan 9, 2013, 5:58 PM
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Re: [Largeman] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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As I said, they vary in sizes out there. If I recall correctly there are even a couple of "large" ones around including some I bolts. I have not been there for a while, but just be wary of any bolts. That rock is very soft. Especially after rain storms. Always give it a good day or two of sun before climbing there.


Largeman


Jan 10, 2013, 1:27 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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socalclimber Your comments have not be useful to me. You should not assume that I am clueless on everything because I have one question. Everything you have said I already knew. Also most of it was not even relevant to my question.

Do try and pay attention and please stop assuming.

I do thank you for your time. Of this I do know that you are a good hearted person seeking to help others, which is a great trait to have. Please dont take offense in my remarks. I am only trying to help you channel your knowledge so that those who would benefit for it would be more likely to.


viciado


Jan 10, 2013, 7:48 AM
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Re: [Largeman] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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Largeman,

From what has been posted, it is not too difficult to surmise that the anchors have been removed for a reason. The rock is rather soft and the bolts are not likely the best answer for an anchor. In spite of the "noise," Socal has offered you the better option... rather than trying to get enough hardware for the various sizes of bolts, just get enough webbing/static line to set up the anchors you need. In the end, it will likely save time and money.


Largeman


Jan 10, 2013, 10:39 AM
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Re: [viciado] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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Viciado
I am aware the hangers were removed for a reason. Someone wanted them so they took them. Bolts were recently set, someone stole the hangers.
I have done a through inspection of bolts and their setting in the rock and they passed the initial tests. Next I would like to test them with hangers and if they pass use them. I know and have a perfect knowledge of quality of rock at Stoney Point. I know how to set a top rope on webbing or cord with natural anchors. The only thing is that you can't do that very easily at a few spots(ie i would need a lot of rope or webbing and it would be in the way of people walking on trails). I have stated my appreciation for all comments and I have greater appreciation for those that write them. I love my fellow climbers. I understand what I being said. The question still stands.

What size are the bolts?


BillyCrook


Jan 10, 2013, 11:29 AM
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Re: [Largeman] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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Good luck getting a straight answer. It might be easier to just bring a handfull of every size you could run into.


viciado


Jan 11, 2013, 3:42 AM
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Re: [Largeman] Stoney Point bolt anchors [In reply to]
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It is unclear which routes you mean and I never know how many "a few" are even with my own brother! Short of going out and looking at the bolts in question, or lucking into meeting in this thread the people that placed them, you're probably going to have to do the grunt work...

If you have determined that the bolts are your best option, why not either take a set of calipers or get a couple of hardware store machine nuts in the range you expect and try them on the routes in question? You've seen the bolts, so you should already have some idea. Given the variety that have been placed in that area, that may be the easiest way to get a definitive response to your question.

Good luck, and be safe!


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