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n_badz


Jan 13, 2013, 9:47 PM
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Rope for Lead
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Hi guys,

I'm planning to get my 1st rope for lead climbing.
Heard good review for Sterling evolution Velocity 9.8mm.

Any other brands u guys can suggest ?

Thanks!


bearbreeder


Jan 13, 2013, 10:34 PM
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Re: [n_badz] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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any certified dynamic rope thats 9.8-10.2 mm ...

dont spend $$$$$ as chances are youll use it for TRing as well to work stuff out, or your partners (read cute gurls) will follow you up on TR which kills ropes ...

you dont need dry treatement ...

you dont really need duodess ... learn the proper way to find the middle mark

a supple rope is better if you are using a gri gri or other assisted locking device

something with lower impact forces if you are planning to take a lot of falls "may" help ... ie stretchy rope

70m if you can, but 60m may work fine in your area ... remember though with sport falls the rope wears out at the ends and chopping the ends is not uncommon ... you can always chop a 70m -> 60m

KISS

Wink


Syd


Jan 14, 2013, 2:56 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
... will follow you up on TR which kills ropes ...

It kills a section a 5-20 feet from the ends, which can be cut off to give extra life to the rope.


granite_grrl


Jan 14, 2013, 4:57 AM
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Re: [n_badz] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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n_badz wrote:
Hi guys,

I'm planning to get my 1st rope for lead climbing.
Heard good review for Sterling evolution Velocity 9.8mm.

Any other brands u guys can suggest ?

Thanks!

Just buy the cheapest dynamic rope you can find. I assume that you're starting off sport climbing (please correct me if I'm wrong) and good belaying will make a bigger difference in the catch you get than the rope you buy.


bearbreeder


Jan 14, 2013, 8:24 AM
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Re: [Syd] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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Syd wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
... will follow you up on TR which kills ropes ...

It kills a section a 5-20 feet from the ends, which can be cut off to give extra life to the rope.

no TRing can kill any part of the rope especially if its lower angle ... the abrasion can rub through any part ...

sport climbing generally kills the ends of the rope from falls, though abrasion can kill any part as well


jeepnphreak


Jan 14, 2013, 9:45 AM
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Re: [n_badz] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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Take a look at REI, Spadout.com, justropes.com and google.com.
Look for sale priced ropes in the length you need. Unfortuantly I m not going to tell you what rope to buy. Some people like stiff ropes, some like soft ropes. ropes vary in stretchynees and such.
For example Beal ropes, I hate them, but I know many people that love them.
Look for ropes with a milimeter diamter of 9.8 to 10.2. If the rope is a fractional number for diameter than its mostly likly a static rope and not for lead climbing.


edge


Jan 14, 2013, 9:51 AM
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Re: [n_badz] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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n_badz wrote:
Hi guys,

I'm planning to get my 1st rope for lead climbing.
Heard good review for Sterling evolution Velocity 9.8mm.

Any other brands u guys can suggest ?

Thanks!

I personally use this rope and highly recommend it. For me, it handles beautifully, is durable, and I like supporting Sterling. I used to climb with a bunch of the Sterling crew, including Jim Ewing who designed the Velocity.

My current rope has seen 1 1/2 season of heavy use on trad, cleaning FAs, and just a tiny bit of sport. I'll be replacing it in the next couple months, but will still use the old one for top roping and rap cleaning.

I found the best deal on it at www.justropes.com


(This post was edited by edge on Jan 14, 2013, 9:54 AM)


n_badz


Jan 16, 2013, 2:45 AM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2012
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Re: [edge] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
n_badz wrote:
Hi guys,

I'm planning to get my 1st rope for lead climbing.
Heard good review for Sterling evolution Velocity 9.8mm.

Any other brands u guys can suggest ?

Thanks!

I personally use this rope and highly recommend it. For me, it handles beautifully, is durable, and I like supporting Sterling. I used to climb with a bunch of the Sterling crew, including Jim Ewing who designed the Velocity.

My current rope has seen 1 1/2 season of heavy use on trad, cleaning FAs, and just a tiny bit of sport. I'll be replacing it in the next couple months, but will still use the old one for top roping and rap cleaning.

I found the best deal on it at www.justropes.com

Thanks! will browse for the websiteSmile


n_badz


Jan 16, 2013, 2:46 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
any certified dynamic rope thats 9.8-10.2 mm ...

dont spend $$$$$ as chances are youll use it for TRing as well to work stuff out, or your partners (read cute gurls) will follow you up on TR which kills ropes ...

you dont need dry treatement ...

you dont really need duodess ... learn the proper way to find the middle mark

a supple rope is better if you are using a gri gri or other assisted locking device

something with lower impact forces if you are planning to take a lot of falls "may" help ... ie stretchy rope

70m if you can, but 60m may work fine in your area ... remember though with sport falls the rope wears out at the ends and chopping the ends is not uncommon ... you can always chop a 70m -> 60m

KISS

Wink

thank's, was wondering whether i need to get the bicolor. Care to let me know how to find the middle mark? marking it with permanent marker? [:)


billcoe_


Jan 16, 2013, 6:53 AM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Re: [n_badz] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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A) If you are planning on doing a lot of TR, get a thick diameter inexpensive UIAA rated rope.


B) New England makes good product.

3) A bi-color rope is nice, but both Beal and Bluewater sell markers for ropes.

4) If you are in the game a while you'll wind up with lots of ropes. Skinny ones for hard leads or long days, fat ones for top rope work (which wears a rope faster than anything else), static ones, maybe doubles etc etc.

5) Most important part: GET A ROPE BAG. I've only see one rope fail (fall apart) on rappel, but it was disturbing. Kid lived, barely.


bearbreeder


Jan 16, 2013, 7:35 AM
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Re: [n_badz] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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n_badz wrote:
thank's, was wondering whether i need to get the bicolor. Care to let me know how to find the middle mark? marking it with permanent marker? [:)

no ... most cheaper ropes have a middle mark which you can renew with a beal rope maker

learn to pull up both ends of the rope when rapping and thread them through the same time through the chains ...

and learn to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope when lowering

practice these basic skills over and over again ...

as to rope bags, some cheaper ropes come with one ... if not a 99 cent ikea bag works just fine


iron106


Jan 16, 2013, 8:32 AM
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Registered: Apr 7, 2008
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Re: [n_badz] Rope for Lead [In reply to]
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n_badz wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
any certified dynamic rope thats 9.8-10.2 mm ...

dont spend $$$$$ as chances are youll use it for TRing as well to work stuff out, or your partners (read cute gurls) will follow you up on TR which kills ropes ...

you dont need dry treatement ...

you dont really need duodess ... learn the proper way to find the middle mark

a supple rope is better if you are using a gri gri or other assisted locking device

something with lower impact forces if you are planning to take a lot of falls "may" help ... ie stretchy rope

70m if you can, but 60m may work fine in your area ... remember though with sport falls the rope wears out at the ends and chopping the ends is not uncommon ... you can always chop a 70m -> 60m

KISS

Wink

thank's, was wondering whether i need to get the bicolor. Care to let me know how to find the middle mark? marking it with permanent marker? [:)

I love the bicolor. I wish i saw more of them out there. Not just for finding the middle (that will change anyway), but to see which end of the rope is which.


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