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Moon Board School holds on a 27 degree wall?
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sp00ki


Jan 17, 2013, 4:56 PM
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Moon Board School holds on a 27 degree wall?
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Hi.
I have a 16' wide, 13' high home wall at about 27 degrees of overhang.
Since we always end up re-setting the wall once around every two months, I was considering purchasing a set of Moon Climbing's School holds.
Now, these holds (and the Moon Board problems) are designed to be used with a 40 degree wall (which this one is not, by about 13 degrees). But since every other aspect of the wall is almost entirely to the Moon Board's spec (number of bolt holes, spacing, kickboard, everything), I'm wondering if the School holds and the Moon Board problems would "work" at that much less steepness.
For instance, would a V12 Moon Board problem feel like a V8-9? Would the problems still be enjoyable? Has anyone done something like this?
My goal is to have a resource of problems set by other climbers (especially world renowned ones!) of various grades without having to pester my friends to come over and set for my weaknesses (or waste my time setting stuff that just plays to my strengths, which is what my problems always end up being).

To be clear, i know the holds would "work" per se, as holds are holds, but i'm wondering if the 13 degrees of difference would make the pre-set problems way too soft (ie, a V12 is now a V4) or too awkward (ie, the 40 degree angle is too integral to the movement for a good problem to make sense on a 27).

Hoping someone somewhere has done the same thing with good results!


(This post was edited by sp00ki on Jan 17, 2013, 5:01 PM)


alg437


Jan 17, 2013, 6:27 PM
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Re: [sp00ki] Moon Board School holds on a 27 degree wall? [In reply to]
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I have a moon board (at 40 degrees) with the original moon holds. While I haven't tried what you are suggesting, I would think that it would work and that the problems would still be fun. The movement on the moon problems is really good and I think it would still be good on a 27 degree wall. The holds are generally pretty small for a 40 degree wall, so I don't think they won't feel like jugs on a 27 degree wall.


sp00ki


Jan 18, 2013, 8:57 AM
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Re: [alg437] Moon Board School holds on a 27 degree wall? [In reply to]
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Good to know. I guess that was part of my concern-- the incut of the holds. I wish there were better pictures of the holds on the web!


alg437


Jan 18, 2013, 9:35 AM
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Re: [sp00ki] Moon Board School holds on a 27 degree wall? [In reply to]
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These are the holds I have
http://www.moonclimbing.com/climbing-bouldering-hardgoods/climbing-holds/original-school-holds-full-set.html

"Original School Holds". I'm not sure what the other ones are like.


sp00ki


Jan 18, 2013, 10:29 AM
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Re: [alg437] Moon Board School holds on a 27 degree wall? [In reply to]
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Yes, those are the ones i'm thinking of.
It's just hard to tell from those pictures whether or not they would be "too incut" to be good for training on a 27 degree wall.


UhhhTake


Jul 6, 2013, 12:16 AM
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Re: [sp00ki] Moon Board School holds on a 27 degree wall? [In reply to]
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Hi sp00ki,

I recognize that it's been a few months, but in case you're still interested in a Moon board: I recently built one with hold sets A and B (the black and white ones). The wall angle is adjustable, but right now I happen to have it at 25 degrees.

It's a bit early for me to give a good review of the holds and the problems, but I can say that it's definitely fun at 25 degrees (as well as 30, 35, and 40 degrees). At 40 degrees, I found some of the holds incredibly difficult to use (e.g., first knuckle mono pocket), but at 25 degrees, I can use all of them. I can still come up with some hard problems, but I worry less about tendon injury at this angle. Also, I prefer roped climbing when possible, so 25 degrees can be good for endurance training.

Frankly though, I haven't been that impressed with a lot of the problems online. It may just be that I'm shorter than everyone else (5'4"), but it seems that too many of the problems are just 4 big moves to the top. With some interesting forced movement, I do think it should be possible to create much longer problems. Then again, if you have the original holds, you'll be looking at a different set of problems, and many of them will be set by Ben Moon.

Your wall sounds awesome by the way. 16' wide!


climb4free


Jul 8, 2013, 9:07 AM
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Re: [UhhhTake] Moon Board School holds on a 27 degree wall? [In reply to]
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Good Call on the adjustable. I was just thinking about this option for my next expansion.


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