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sp00ki
Jan 17, 2013, 4:56 PM
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Registered: Jul 2, 2009
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Hi.
I have a 16' wide, 13' high home wall at about 27 degrees of overhang.
Since we always end up re-setting the wall once around every two months, I was considering purchasing a set of Moon Climbing's School holds.
Now, these holds (and the Moon Board problems) are designed to be used with a 40 degree wall (which this one is not, by about 13 degrees). But since every other aspect of the wall is almost entirely to the Moon Board's spec (number of bolt holes, spacing, kickboard, everything), I'm wondering if the School holds and the Moon Board problems would "work" at that much less steepness.
For instance, would a V12 Moon Board problem feel like a V8-9? Would the problems still be enjoyable? Has anyone done something like this?
My goal is to have a resource of problems set by other climbers (especially world renowned ones!) of various grades without having to pester my friends to come over and set for my weaknesses (or waste my time setting stuff that just plays to my strengths, which is what my problems always end up being).
To be clear, i know the holds would "work" per se, as holds are holds, but i'm wondering if the 13 degrees of difference would make the pre-set problems way too soft (ie, a V12 is now a V4) or too awkward (ie, the 40 degree angle is too integral to the movement for a good problem to make sense on a 27).
Hoping someone somewhere has done the same thing with good results!
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Jan 17, 2013, 5:01 PM)
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alg437
Jan 17, 2013, 6:27 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2005
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I have a moon board (at 40 degrees) with the original moon holds. While I haven't tried what you are suggesting, I would think that it would work and that the problems would still be fun. The movement on the moon problems is really good and I think it would still be good on a 27 degree wall. The holds are generally pretty small for a 40 degree wall, so I don't think they won't feel like jugs on a 27 degree wall.
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sp00ki
Jan 18, 2013, 8:57 AM
Post #3 of 5
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Good to know. I guess that was part of my concern-- the incut of the holds. I wish there were better pictures of the holds on the web!
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alg437
Jan 18, 2013, 9:35 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2005
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These are the holds I have
http://www.moonclimbing.com/climbing-bouldering-hardgoods/climbing-holds/original-school-holds-full-set.html
"Original School Holds". I'm not sure what the other ones are like.
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sp00ki
Jan 18, 2013, 10:29 AM
Post #5 of 5
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Registered: Jul 2, 2009
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Yes, those are the ones i'm thinking of.
It's just hard to tell from those pictures whether or not they would be "too incut" to be good for training on a 27 degree wall.
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