Some hair stylists are gay. Or have moral principles. Or something like that.

lots of snow in canuckistan

teh asiant and teh AB *RIP, PO CIz BLL* have still not responded.

WHY????

Why ewe has to deleate hard to kill?

It's a fucking jamboree

after failing to hotlink the image 3x and shamefully editing, I deletzed and hoped no one noticed.

after failing to hotlink the image 3x and shamefully editing, I deletzed and hoped no one noticed.

It's a fucking jamboree

after failing to hotlink the image 3x and shamefully editing, I deletzed and hoped no one noticed.

I'll be rolling owt their with teh asiant ... CI, I told her she could probibly find a spot on teh floor for zatyrday night.

No there's not.

and yore just admitting this and coming clean? seems very unlike ewe.

You're a disgrace.

Whut ewe talking about willis??? CI iz a pilliar ov honesty and integri....

biweekly hangbored report:

Had a really good sesh today. Am up to 35 lbs added on all three and four-finger holds, though am still a bit behind on my shallow two-fingered nemeses. But the 35 lb thing is a milestone, because it means I'm climbing as if I'm 200 lbs. I may actually start easing off on the weight a bit, though, since I don't want to peak too soon (I always have a problem of, wait, no never mind). And, if I start doing less weight, it will start becoming more of an endurance kind of thing, which will benefit the spring RRG season.

Which really depresses me, that there will be a spring RRG season; unfortunately, the combination of in tents footwork and ledgy terrain at the NRG just scares me, so this spring may be more steep thuggy stuff to get back into it. Oh well.

Also, LENA! Have you tried what the Beastmaker guys call "Encores"? It's basically Frenchies for the hangbored: with each rep, you do a different elbow angle. Manderson was skeptical about them because the changes of angle result in not enough maximum load on your fingers for each set, but I'm thinking that, since I cannot climb otherwise, it is simulating more the strength that I need not just to hold a grip, but to pull and move off of it. Erie Guardless, they're pretty hard.

Ok, that's awl. I had such a good sesh, and Drivel is out of town, that I'm going to _____, eat some ice cream, and watch some netflix.

Muthuh fuckahs.

Yay, I will have a partner for RRG spring season. I try to feel your pain, but...

No, I haven't done Encores, but they would be hard. J-teh-boi was dicking around with them on the hangbored, and also with hang-until-you-fall, bc the hangbored repeater was too boring and regimented for him.

As far as hangbored, I am up to 20 lb on the easiest hold, 15 lb on 4 other holds, and no weight on 6th hold. Planning to up it all by 5lb tonight.

I was going to do the hangbored for 2 more weeks (should i do 3?) and then switch to campus (really need input here, bc Manderson is not nearly as specific about this as he is about hangbored.).

1) Debating whether to add systems board to campus, also, bc I cannot see campusing session lasting very long for me.

2)Not sure how long to do the campusing, and when to switch to PE, and how to do the PE, other than 4x4s.

So Nathan is competing in Switzerland this morning. He is #37 of 39 in his group (I think that's right....) and the men's quialifier rounds start at 9:15am Eastern time.

This is the link for the live feed: http://www.swiss-sport.tv/index.php?id=19

I have a meeting at 10:30 this morning though....if I can figure out the approxomite time that Nathan will compete (I dunno 11:30? noon?) and I'm still in the meeting I hope I can excuse myself.

Campusing was less regimented for me; I started by searching youtube videos to see what pros were doing on the campus bored. There's a good one of Sonny Trotter doing some different exercises; some of them will work, others will not. I could send you a rundown of some different campus routines I did.

And above all, even more than handboarding, with campusing you need to rest a LOT between sets. Like, 5 minutes or more. Though, on the plus side, campusing did not completely wear my body down for days afterward as much as hangboreding did.

For PE, 4x4s are great, though you want to make sure you find problems that are easy enough; you'll be surprised what you can fall off of at the end of the set. Or, if possible, try to set a lap of numbers (around 25 moves long), on the bouldering wall, which you can do with no no-hands rests,get really pumped, and then jump right into v3-ish 5-6 move boulder problems.

Does that mean that he's ranked 37 out of 39, or that that's the order he's competing in or something?

Gud luck pegborder!

Yes please, send me what you have on the campusing.

I've done 4x4s before, so I am pretty familiar with what difficulty grade/length I need. I was just wondering if I should be doing something in addition to 4x4s, or doing them differently. Basically, before, I would warm up and boulder some in haphazard way, just doing stuff that was new or I wanted to work on, and then do 4x4. And after one 4x4 I was done. As in, completely done, couldn't climb anything other than super-easy traversing.

Do you just warm up and go into 4x4? Do you do more than one 4x4 in the same session?

Other things I had been considering for PE stage:

-- VIR/CIR stamina laps on the rope (12 laps with timed 3 min break in between) of the difficulty where they are fairly easy as one lap on it's own, but I would be struggling towards the end.

--bouldering pyramid, something like 8xV0s-4xV1s-2xV3s-1xV4-xV3s-4xV1-8xV0, but I am not sure how strictly timed this should be, and how long the breaks should be