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oldguy53
Nov 8, 2012, 8:12 PM
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Mike ( and other olders ) Please reply to bobo44561@hotmail.com I 'll need your email address. to plan trips. bobo
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rgold
Nov 9, 2012, 7:37 PM
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Ed, great to hear from you. Helping to open the gates of the climbing garden for others is what guiding is all about, and even though I am long retired from that profession, I often wonder what some of my clients are up to. I'm so glad to hear you are still enjoying the sport!
Richard
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jgill
Nov 10, 2012, 10:01 PM
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Thank you, oldsalt. I retired from bouldering in 1987 at the age of fifty after an arm injury. After recovering I went back to easy-moderate soloing that I had been doing since I started climbing in 1953-54 ( a solo scamper up the east face of Longs Peak in 1954). I continued soloing to the age of seventy, when my shoulder arthritis began to really limit what I could do. For about three years after that I did traverses at city park, then quit and focused on keeping up my strength with bodyweight exercises, which I still do. But those 15-20 years I soloed after 1987 were the most enjoyable of my entire climbing career. The flow, the immersion in the task, the aerobic aspect, the Zen-like experience in general are pleasant and permanent memories from that time period. (I didn't miss the intensity of bouldering at all!) 
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healyje
Nov 11, 2012, 10:33 AM
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I'm still at it and had hoped to take a shot at the Casual Route for my 60th this past August, but climbing ended up totally shut down for me this year due to work and a medical crisis in the immediate family. But reading all your amazing tales of perseverance, comebacks and working to stay in shape and healthy off the rock is totally inspiring to me to keep at it at whatever capacity and level I can for as long as I can. Thanks for sharing those stories and who knows who they'll inspire a decade from now.
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oldguy53
Nov 22, 2012, 5:50 PM
Post #80 of 105
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Are you talking about the Diamond ?
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healyje
Nov 22, 2012, 9:14 PM
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Yes, maybe next summer...
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rhei
Nov 23, 2012, 3:54 AM
Post #82 of 105
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Thanksgiving Day.
Great comments here about having years of experiences and the resounding consensus that the game can continue if you want it to. My two cents? Find the level at which you enjoy the sport and find the people who are as enthusiastic about it as you.
In that respect, this was a banner year for me as I found that enthusiasm both in old and new climbing partners. As mentioned earlier, a steady attrition of partners seems to be part of what comes with staying in the sport for decades. Faced with that problem while living in the east this autumn, I started swinging leads with a twenty year old who is relatively new to trad leading. Within another season, he’ll be working routes much harder than I’ll care to climb, but for the past few months I’ve enjoyed being propelled along with the raw enthusiasm of someone who has yet to discover their limits. And yet sometimes reunions happen and click, as was the case in July when I visited a friend that I’d taught ropework to forty years ago. We ended up putting in a new line on the east side of the biggest peak in Idaho, summiting with 83 years of combined climbing experiences and 122 years age between the two of us. Yeah, I’m thankful for all that. And still smiling about it all, too.
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guangzhou
Nov 23, 2012, 7:24 AM
Post #83 of 105
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jgill wrote: Thank you, oldsalt. I retired from bouldering in 1987 at the age of fifty after an arm injury. After recovering I went back to easy-moderate soloing that I had been doing since I started climbing in 1953-54 ( a solo scamper up the east face of Longs Peak in 1954). I continued soloing to the age of seventy, when my shoulder arthritis began to really limit what I could do. For about three years after that I did traverses at city park, then quit and focused on keeping up my strength with bodyweight exercises, which I still do. But those 15-20 years I soloed after 1987 were the most enjoyable of my entire climbing career. The flow, the immersion in the task, the aerobic aspect, the Zen-like experience in general are pleasant and permanent memories from that time period. (I didn't miss the intensity of bouldering at all!)
Keeping up your strength with body weight exercise. Like this very inspirational video.
http://www.youtube.com/...ed&v=7XklZ40FGgs
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satch
Nov 27, 2012, 2:09 AM
Post #84 of 105
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Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 94
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Hey old guy - I'm at the New. Let me know if you're interested in a trip down here this Spring. That is if we can remember what we planned.
If I live a couple more years, I may achieve my life-long goal of becoming a climbing bum. My wife and I are planning a 12 month climbing trip. Remember all those trips where you had to leave too soon? How fun would it be to go there and stay as long as you want? Any suggestions for older climbers (I'm 65)? Chamonix and the Pynerees are at the top of the list, but US and Canadian sites are open and exciting possibilities.
(This post was edited by satch on Nov 27, 2012, 2:23 AM)
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oldguy53
Nov 27, 2012, 2:50 AM
Post #85 of 105
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I sure am .... For some reason I keep returning to Seneca. And the New was always put off until later. The RED is easy for me to get to and when faced with a hard decision like this one ,,,, why not do both or all three and go from there. bobo
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healyje
Nov 27, 2012, 4:11 AM
Post #86 of 105
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Blue Mountains two hours due west of Sydney. Paradise. The rock you can see in this photo from Katoomba is about 3-5% of the available rock in that area. As far as the rock goes, think of a RRG / Eldo stacking in layers with the Eldo layers be quite a bit taller than the RRG layers.
(This post was edited by healyje on Nov 27, 2012, 7:49 AM)
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Syd
Nov 27, 2012, 8:11 PM
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The first pic is "the 3 sisters". Climbing is now banned there. Thousands of other routes nearby in the Bluies though. There's thousands more within 1 hour of Sydney centre. All sandstone but it's very varied.
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healyje
Nov 27, 2012, 8:22 PM
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You could spit in any direction there and do nothing but FAs the rest of your life.
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Syd
Nov 27, 2012, 8:28 PM
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There's a young bloke here in Sydney, Rod Wills, early 50's, and that's all he does ... wandering around the bush, bolting new routes. He doesn't climb so well now but just loves bolting. I've often wondered how he discovers some of his new climbing areas. He does a great job and one of the few safe bolters around.
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healyje
Nov 27, 2012, 8:54 PM
Post #90 of 105
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I saw absolutely tons of trad FA potential when I was there. Need to get back while I'm still at it. It's also the only place I've been that's just like the hollows back home in Southern Illinois only about 100k times more rock.
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Syd
Nov 27, 2012, 9:10 PM
Post #91 of 105
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I've never climbed trad but some sandstone can be quite weak, especially after rain. I'm always very wary of "chicken head" holds. Of course there's also some sandstone here that is beautifully fine grained and super hard.
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healyje
Nov 28, 2012, 12:03 AM
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Similar to back in the hollows of Southern Illinois, just taller, with more vertical expanses, and way more of it.
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Syd
Nov 28, 2012, 12:26 AM
Post #93 of 105
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Top pic looks just like Gardens of Stone Nat Park (in the Bluies).
Lots of canyoning there and climbing nearby at Sahara Point and Wolgan.
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satch
Nov 28, 2012, 2:21 AM
Post #94 of 105
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Looks vast. May have to give it a try. Thanks healyje.
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oldguy53
Dec 28, 2012, 3:55 AM
Post #95 of 105
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The idea was to meet some older climbers that want another go at it . For a year, maybe two. bobo
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oldsalt
Dec 30, 2012, 3:54 PM
Post #96 of 105
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Registered: Jan 19, 2004
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Your Garden of the Gods images look exactly like Sandrock in Alabama. The rock closeups could actually have been taken there...you could not tell one from another. It's the molten look of extruded rock that is so similar. Both areas are quite different from other rock types.
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healyje
Dec 30, 2012, 11:13 PM
Post #97 of 105
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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I had no idea such an area existed in Alabama - may have to make a point of checking that out sometime soon. Thanks for the pointer.
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rolfr
Jan 20, 2013, 10:07 PM
Post #99 of 105
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Registered: Dec 24, 2009
Posts: 15
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Ok enough talk. Who wants to go climbing. I am in Palm Springs till mid April. JT trad or Riverside sport. I will also be in Tucson from feb 02 till Feb 17. Cochise Stronghold or Mt Lemmon.
Me 61, leading easy 5.10 trad and 5.11 sport.
Most any day, looking to get out three times a week.
Rolf 3 six 0. seven 22 ten fifty six
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oldguy53
Jan 20, 2013, 11:37 PM
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Posts: 115
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This post contains nudity or adult content. To protect the innocent we require that you register and turn off your Adult Content Filter to read it.
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