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Kartessa


Jan 22, 2013, 11:10 AM
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PT Consolation Prize


Gmburns2000


Jan 22, 2013, 2:49 PM
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Kartessa wrote:
edge wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
It appears that not everybody on rc.com likes me.
Ignore the ignorant a$$hole.

But I almost want to play...

link?


Gmburns2000


Jan 22, 2013, 2:51 PM
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edge wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
It appears that not everybody on rc.com likes me.
Ignore the ignorant a$$hole.

where have you been lately?

I posted a TR and you didn't even sniff (and it wasn't even on the blogroll either)


edge


Jan 22, 2013, 2:54 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
It appears that not everybody on rc.com likes me.
Ignore the ignorant a$$hole.

where have you been lately?

I posted a TR and you didn't even sniff (and it wasn't even on the blogroll either)

It's not like I'm missed around here.

Busy busy. I have been scheduling workshops and classes, crafting stuff for Etsy (which is going quite well), and resting my Achilles until mid Feb.


Gmburns2000


Jan 22, 2013, 2:59 PM
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edge wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
It appears that not everybody on rc.com likes me.
Ignore the ignorant a$$hole.

where have you been lately?

I posted a TR and you didn't even sniff (and it wasn't even on the blogroll either)

It's not like I'm missed around here.

Busy busy. I have been scheduling workshops and classes, crafting stuff for Etsy (which is going quite well), and resting my Achilles until mid Feb.

No ice or dry rock days then?

Not sure what happened, but my art site is getting a bunch more hits all of a sudden. I added to a couple of directories and also launched the newest project, so maybe that's it, but I can't figure it out.

Latest painting is nearly done, but I have a tiny fuck-up that I don't know how to fix. Waiting to hear back from a friend who may be able to help me fix it. Hoping I don't need to get the sandpaper out.

Wait, you were missing?


notapplicable


Jan 22, 2013, 9:09 PM
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donald949 wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
donald949 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
In a somewhat related topic. A couple weeks ago, I wus doing some cutting and drilling on a plate. Making some stuff, rock hounding pick, hacket, and ice axes. Cause homemade is phun. But the next day my back wuz strained. It been getting better, but Sat I put in some weather stripping. Now the back is soar again.
ARE U FRACKING KIDDING ME?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!

Old age I tell ya
Yea, it pretty much sucks...

True story


notapplicable


Jan 22, 2013, 9:11 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Sty's Post Count Increaser [In reply to]
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Hey, it's Laz!


notapplicable


Jan 22, 2013, 9:11 PM
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notapplicable wrote:
Hey, it's Laz!

Long time no see. Glad you got some climbing in.


notapplicable


Jan 22, 2013, 9:13 PM
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Kartessa wrote:
It appears that not everybody on rc.com likes me.

Dude is a tool


edge


Jan 22, 2013, 9:23 PM
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Posts: 9091

Re: [Gmburns2000] Sty's Post Count Increaser [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
It appears that not everybody on rc.com likes me.
Ignore the ignorant a$$hole.

where have you been lately?

I posted a TR and you didn't even sniff (and it wasn't even on the blogroll either)

It's not like I'm missed around here.

Busy busy. I have been scheduling workshops and classes, crafting stuff for Etsy (which is going quite well), and resting my Achilles until mid Feb.

No ice or dry rock days then?

Not sure what happened, but my art site is getting a bunch more hits all of a sudden. I added to a couple of directories and also launched the newest project, so maybe that's it, but I can't figure it out.

Latest painting is nearly done, but I have a tiny fuck-up that I don't know how to fix. Waiting to hear back from a friend who may be able to help me fix it. Hoping I don't need to get the sandpaper out.

Wait, you were missing?

No rock or ice since late Dec, so I'm taking my 6 weeks off to try and let my Achilles heal. I'm really not psyched on ice right now, as I've done most everything that I want to in NE. It's been far too cold for rock here anyway, so I'm not missing anything except the gym, and I can do without plastic also. The new gym in Concord is pretty nice, but I had to be that guy during the belay test and threatened to leave if they forced me to belay by grabbing under the device with the top hand. It might work for noobs, but I am much safer belaying the way I am hard wired to belay.

Sold $300+ of goods just last week on etsy, and I've got a good client list keeping me busy with hour long sessions at $40-60 a pop. Throw in the workshops which net $400-750/6 hrs and I'm not missing the furniture making at all. The etsy stuff has a good turn-around time from conception to completion and allows for lots of artistic expression and incorporating of new techniques.

Enough non-climbing spray, I'll post again when I have something climbing related to report. Until then, I'll be hanging at the Taco.


notapplicable


Jan 22, 2013, 9:55 PM
Post #40086 of 45021 (590 views)
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Went to Old Rag Mtn on sunday and got some climbing in. Perfect 50 degree temps on a south facing wall. Brilliant weather compared to the solid week of rain we had before.

My partner started out by trying to onsight an unknown route as a "warm up" that turned out to be a very devious .11b/c. He got pretty pumped so I decided to lead on preplaced gear to avoid that but it didn't work. I got trashed too. Turned out to be a super fun route though and I will go back for the RP. It starts with solid finger and hand jams but the crack gets more and more shallow as it archs left. Finally you get 50% quality grey, purple and blue tcu placements stacked right on top of each other and then run it out to a deadpoint just below the anchors. If you blow it, as I did the first time, you come pretty close to the ground.

Next I red pointed a route that spanked me last time I was on it like 5 years ago. Got it first try.

Bushwhack Crack (everything from tight to perfect to cupped hands):



My partner took his first burn on a route he plans to project. It's an amazing and steep finger crack that goes at .13a Should be fun to watch him work that thing over the next few months.

Also scoped two offwidths that I will have to drag the 5's & 6 down there for on the next trip. Pretty psyched. There aren't many legit offwidths in my area. Also spotted what looks to be an amazingly steep and difficult offwidth roof that I can't find any beta for online. I'm going in for a closer inspection next trip. Only saw it from a distance but it could be in the .12 range. I'm going to have a hard time sleeping tonight just thinking about it...


notapplicable


Jan 22, 2013, 9:59 PM
Post #40087 of 45021 (588 views)
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Re: [edge] Sty's Post Count Increaser [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
The new gym in Concord is pretty nice, but I had to be that guy during the belay test and threatened to leave if they forced me to belay by grabbing under the device with the top hand. It might work for noobs, but I am much safer belaying the way I am hard wired to belay.

Do you just slid your brake hand up without bringing the other hand below to hold/control the rope?


Gmburns2000


Jan 23, 2013, 1:56 AM
Post #40088 of 45021 (581 views)
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15106

Re: [edge] Sty's Post Count Increaser [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
It appears that not everybody on rc.com likes me.
Ignore the ignorant a$$hole.

where have you been lately?

I posted a TR and you didn't even sniff (and it wasn't even on the blogroll either)

It's not like I'm missed around here.

Busy busy. I have been scheduling workshops and classes, crafting stuff for Etsy (which is going quite well), and resting my Achilles until mid Feb.

No ice or dry rock days then?

Not sure what happened, but my art site is getting a bunch more hits all of a sudden. I added to a couple of directories and also launched the newest project, so maybe that's it, but I can't figure it out.

Latest painting is nearly done, but I have a tiny fuck-up that I don't know how to fix. Waiting to hear back from a friend who may be able to help me fix it. Hoping I don't need to get the sandpaper out.

Wait, you were missing?

No rock or ice since late Dec, so I'm taking my 6 weeks off to try and let my Achilles heal. I'm really not psyched on ice right now, as I've done most everything that I want to in NE. It's been far too cold for rock here anyway, so I'm not missing anything except the gym, and I can do without plastic also. The new gym in Concord is pretty nice, but I had to be that guy during the belay test and threatened to leave if they forced me to belay by grabbing under the device with the top hand. It might work for noobs, but I am much safer belaying the way I am hard wired to belay.

Sold $300+ of goods just last week on etsy, and I've got a good client list keeping me busy with hour long sessions at $40-60 a pop. Throw in the workshops which net $400-750/6 hrs and I'm not missing the furniture making at all. The etsy stuff has a good turn-around time from conception to completion and allows for lots of artistic expression and incorporating of new techniques.

Enough non-climbing spray, I'll post again when I have something climbing related to report. Until then, I'll be hanging at the Taco.


well, that beats my ~3.75 per month that I'm pulling in. Crazy


Gmburns2000


Jan 23, 2013, 1:57 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
Went to Old Rag Mtn on sunday and got some climbing in. Perfect 50 degree temps on a south facing wall. Brilliant weather compared to the solid week of rain we had before.

My partner started out by trying to onsight an unknown route as a "warm up" that turned out to be a very devious .11b/c. He got pretty pumped so I decided to lead on preplaced gear to avoid that but it didn't work. I got trashed too. Turned out to be a super fun route though and I will go back for the RP. It starts with solid finger and hand jams but the crack gets more and more shallow as it archs left. Finally you get 50% quality grey, purple and blue tcu placements stacked right on top of each other and then run it out to a deadpoint just below the anchors. If you blow it, as I did the first time, you come pretty close to the ground.

Next I red pointed a route that spanked me last time I was on it like 5 years ago. Got it first try.

Bushwhack Crack (everything from tight to perfect to cupped hands):

[image]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_fDLXryKUnCE/S1Y6oMXz3oI/AAAAAAAAAYk/JtaJ20YlCWw/s640/Bushwack+Crack.jpg[/image]

My partner took his first burn on a route he plans to project. It's an amazing and steep finger crack that goes at .13a Should be fun to watch him work that thing over the next few months.

Also scoped two offwidths that I will have to drag the 5's & 6 down there for on the next trip. Pretty psyched. There aren't many legit offwidths in my area. Also spotted what looks to be an amazingly steep and difficult offwidth roof that I can't find any beta for online. I'm going in for a closer inspection next trip. Only saw it from a distance but it could be in the .12 range. I'm going to have a hard time sleeping tonight just thinking about it...

I didn't know you were still working routes that hard.

elbow is good?


Kartessa


Jan 23, 2013, 5:00 AM
Post #40090 of 45021 (559 views)
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Registered: Nov 17, 2008
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Rude awakening this morning... Apparently it's winter


Kartessa


Jan 23, 2013, 5:01 AM
Post #40091 of 45021 (557 views)
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Posts: 7356

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Kartessa wrote:
Rude awakening this morning... Apparently it's winter

-20C out here


notapplicable


Jan 23, 2013, 6:23 AM
Post #40092 of 45021 (542 views)
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Posts: 17766

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Kartessa wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
Rude awakening this morning... Apparently it's winter

-20C out here

WOO!


notapplicable


Jan 23, 2013, 6:25 AM
Post #40093 of 45021 (539 views)
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17766

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Gmburns2000 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
Went to Old Rag Mtn on sunday and got some climbing in. Perfect 50 degree temps on a south facing wall. Brilliant weather compared to the solid week of rain we had before.

My partner started out by trying to onsight an unknown route as a "warm up" that turned out to be a very devious .11b/c. He got pretty pumped so I decided to lead on preplaced gear to avoid that but it didn't work. I got trashed too. Turned out to be a super fun route though and I will go back for the RP. It starts with solid finger and hand jams but the crack gets more and more shallow as it archs left. Finally you get 50% quality grey, purple and blue tcu placements stacked right on top of each other and then run it out to a deadpoint just below the anchors. If you blow it, as I did the first time, you come pretty close to the ground.

Next I red pointed a route that spanked me last time I was on it like 5 years ago. Got it first try.

Bushwhack Crack (everything from tight to perfect to cupped hands):

[image]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_fDLXryKUnCE/S1Y6oMXz3oI/AAAAAAAAAYk/JtaJ20YlCWw/s640/Bushwack+Crack.jpg[/image]

My partner took his first burn on a route he plans to project. It's an amazing and steep finger crack that goes at .13a Should be fun to watch him work that thing over the next few months.

Also scoped two offwidths that I will have to drag the 5's & 6 down there for on the next trip. Pretty psyched. There aren't many legit offwidths in my area. Also spotted what looks to be an amazingly steep and difficult offwidth roof that I can't find any beta for online. I'm going in for a closer inspection next trip. Only saw it from a distance but it could be in the .12 range. I'm going to have a hard time sleeping tonight just thinking about it...

I didn't know you were still working routes that hard.

elbow is good?

No, not really. It is slowly getting better. I've tried to keep it in the mid .10's and below but I lack discipline.


Kartessa


Jan 23, 2013, 6:35 AM
Post #40094 of 45021 (534 views)
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notapplicable wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
Rude awakening this morning... Apparently it's winter

-20C out here

WOO!

FML!


Gmburns2000


Jan 23, 2013, 7:40 AM
Post #40095 of 45021 (523 views)
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notapplicable wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
Went to Old Rag Mtn on sunday and got some climbing in. Perfect 50 degree temps on a south facing wall. Brilliant weather compared to the solid week of rain we had before.

My partner started out by trying to onsight an unknown route as a "warm up" that turned out to be a very devious .11b/c. He got pretty pumped so I decided to lead on preplaced gear to avoid that but it didn't work. I got trashed too. Turned out to be a super fun route though and I will go back for the RP. It starts with solid finger and hand jams but the crack gets more and more shallow as it archs left. Finally you get 50% quality grey, purple and blue tcu placements stacked right on top of each other and then run it out to a deadpoint just below the anchors. If you blow it, as I did the first time, you come pretty close to the ground.

Next I red pointed a route that spanked me last time I was on it like 5 years ago. Got it first try.

Bushwhack Crack (everything from tight to perfect to cupped hands):

[image]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_fDLXryKUnCE/S1Y6oMXz3oI/AAAAAAAAAYk/JtaJ20YlCWw/s640/Bushwack+Crack.jpg[/image]

My partner took his first burn on a route he plans to project. It's an amazing and steep finger crack that goes at .13a Should be fun to watch him work that thing over the next few months.

Also scoped two offwidths that I will have to drag the 5's & 6 down there for on the next trip. Pretty psyched. There aren't many legit offwidths in my area. Also spotted what looks to be an amazingly steep and difficult offwidth roof that I can't find any beta for online. I'm going in for a closer inspection next trip. Only saw it from a distance but it could be in the .12 range. I'm going to have a hard time sleeping tonight just thinking about it...

I didn't know you were still working routes that hard.

elbow is good?

No, not really. It is slowly getting better. I've tried to keep it in the mid .10's and below but I lack discipline.

Well, just like I said in that thread no one has bothered to reply to, might as well go big.


Gmburns2000


Jan 23, 2013, 7:41 AM
Post #40096 of 45021 (521 views)
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Kartessa wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
Rude awakening this morning... Apparently it's winter

-20C out here

fucking gorgeous 70F here with a nice breeze out of the south east, partly cloudy with a 30% chance of rain in the afternoon, and a 0% chance I'm wearing socks to the Exxon english evaluations I have to do later.


edge


Jan 23, 2013, 8:20 AM
Post #40097 of 45021 (517 views)
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9091

Re: [Gmburns2000] Sty's Post Count Increaser [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
edge wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
It appears that not everybody on rc.com likes me.
Ignore the ignorant a$$hole.

where have you been lately?

I posted a TR and you didn't even sniff (and it wasn't even on the blogroll either)

It's not like I'm missed around here.

Busy busy. I have been scheduling workshops and classes, crafting stuff for Etsy (which is going quite well), and resting my Achilles until mid Feb.

No ice or dry rock days then?

Not sure what happened, but my art site is getting a bunch more hits all of a sudden. I added to a couple of directories and also launched the newest project, so maybe that's it, but I can't figure it out.

Latest painting is nearly done, but I have a tiny fuck-up that I don't know how to fix. Waiting to hear back from a friend who may be able to help me fix it. Hoping I don't need to get the sandpaper out.

Wait, you were missing?

No rock or ice since late Dec, so I'm taking my 6 weeks off to try and let my Achilles heal. I'm really not psyched on ice right now, as I've done most everything that I want to in NE. It's been far too cold for rock here anyway, so I'm not missing anything except the gym, and I can do without plastic also. The new gym in Concord is pretty nice, but I had to be that guy during the belay test and threatened to leave if they forced me to belay by grabbing under the device with the top hand. It might work for noobs, but I am much safer belaying the way I am hard wired to belay.

Sold $300+ of goods just last week on etsy, and I've got a good client list keeping me busy with hour long sessions at $40-60 a pop. Throw in the workshops which net $400-750/6 hrs and I'm not missing the furniture making at all. The etsy stuff has a good turn-around time from conception to completion and allows for lots of artistic expression and incorporating of new techniques.

Enough non-climbing spray, I'll post again when I have something climbing related to report. Until then, I'll be hanging at the Taco.


well, that beats my ~3.75 per month that I'm pulling in. Crazy

I just finished a custom made Shaman's rattle for a client. The elk antler piece was from a mountain lion kill just outside the Indian Peaks Wilderness in CO. I also picked up a couple of the found feathers there (raven and woodpecker) as well as some quartz and feldspar gravel for placing inside the rattle along with dried corn, amethyst & jasper chips, and a Madagascar laser quartz crystal.





The fox face was backed with deer leather and stuffed with natural fiber; the eyes are onyx. All the feathers in the fan were found, including wild turkey, hawk, swan, raven, woodpecker, and bluejay. The wire-wrapped quartz crystal is accompanied by coral and turquoise beads.



The rattle head is elk rawhide; leather wraps, lacing, and fringe are purple dyed deer leather. Fox fur trim.


edge


Jan 23, 2013, 8:33 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
edge wrote:
The new gym in Concord is pretty nice, but I had to be that guy during the belay test and threatened to leave if they forced me to belay by grabbing under the device with the top hand. It might work for noobs, but I am much safer belaying the way I am hard wired to belay.

Do you just slid your brake hand up without bringing the other hand below to hold/control the rope?

Keep in mind that the gyms test was only interested in top rope belaying. My brake hand (right) grips the rope with three middle fingers over the top and the thumb and pinky grip from underneath; the pinky being under gives the rope a little stiffy of a loop that makes it easy for the guide hand to grab for a pinch and slide. The brake hand never leaves the rope, and even if someone falls when the strands are parallel there is no more than a couple inches of slide before full braking.

I do this so fast that I don't think the kid could follow exactly what was going on, so he passed me by saying "most people don't know how to do that correctly, but I can see you do." This was all after I told him I had been climbing for 35 years, was a Nationals Level head judge for USA Climbing, had worked for the Yosemite Rescue, and had climbed Half Dome and El Cap before he was born, using a figure eight as a belay device on a swami belt. Apparently the little snot nose climbs 5.13, but he has much to learn.


Kartessa


Jan 23, 2013, 8:38 AM
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Oooo! New reason to bitch and moan today. I have a meeting with the school board to prepare for my son's entry this fall.


Kartessa


Jan 23, 2013, 8:43 AM
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Kartessa wrote:
Oooo! New reason to bitch and moan today. I have a meeting with the school board to prepare for my son's entry this fall.

Here begins the uphill battle for a full time EA

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