So Nathan is competing in Switzerland this morning. He is #37 of 39 in his group (I think that's right....) and the men's quialifier rounds start at 9:15am Eastern time.

This is the link for the live feed: http://www.swiss-sport.tv/index.php?id=19

I have a meeting at 10:30 this morning though....if I can figure out the approxomite time that Nathan will compete (I dunno 11:30? noon?) and I'm still in the meeting I hope I can excuse myself.

Campusing was less regimented for me; I started by searching youtube videos to see what pros were doing on the campus bored. There's a good one of Sonny Trotter doing some different exercises; some of them will work, others will not. I could send you a rundown of some different campus routines I did.

And above all, even more than handboarding, with campusing you need to rest a LOT between sets. Like, 5 minutes or more. Though, on the plus side, campusing did not completely wear my body down for days afterward as much as hangboreding did.

For PE, 4x4s are great, though you want to make sure you find problems that are easy enough; you'll be surprised what you can fall off of at the end of the set. Or, if possible, try to set a lap of numbers (around 25 moves long), on the bouldering wall, which you can do with no no-hands rests,get really pumped, and then jump right into v3-ish 5-6 move boulder problems.

Does that mean that he's ranked 37 out of 39, or that that's the order he's competing in or something?

Gud luck pegborder!

Yes please, send me what you have on the campusing.

I've done 4x4s before, so I am pretty familiar with what difficulty grade/length I need. I was just wondering if I should be doing something in addition to 4x4s, or doing them differently. Basically, before, I would warm up and boulder some in haphazard way, just doing stuff that was new or I wanted to work on, and then do 4x4. And after one 4x4 I was done. As in, completely done, couldn't climb anything other than super-easy traversing.

Do you just warm up and go into 4x4? Do you do more than one 4x4 in the same session?

Other things I had been considering for PE stage:

-- VIR/CIR stamina laps on the rope (12 laps with timed 3 min break in between) of the difficulty where they are fairly easy as one lap on it's own, but I would be struggling towards the end.

--bouldering pyramid, something like 8xV0s-4xV1s-2xV3s-1xV4-xV3s-4xV1-8xV0, but I am not sure how strictly timed this should be, and how long the breaks should be

Hmm, makes me feel better about keeping Feisty as an inside cat.

The order he is competing.

Campus dissertation sent via facespace.

On the PE, I've never done real 4x4s seriously. After warming up, and maybe 30 minutes of projecting boulder problems at my max, I usually did one of two things:

1.
Descending Pyramid-ish circuits: Find 3 or 4 groups of problems that are all similar to each other, and which you have dialed. For example, find a set of 4 v4s, 4 v3s and 4 v2s. Start hard, and do each set without resting between problems, but rest 5 minutes or so between each set. You should be failing at the end of the v2s.

Although each set should contain problems similar in grade, we all know that some v4s you have more dialed than others. Depending on how you feel, you can challenge yourself by starting on the problems that you have more dialed, and finishing with the ones that are harder for you at the end of the set. Or, less challenge would be to save the ones you have dialed for the end of each set.

You may have to add more problems to this, depending on your gym. All problems in these sets that I did were 6-10 move problems on the 70 degree "Mothership" wall.

OR,

2.
My favorite, which I do on the Mothership wall again: Get a few boulder problems that are just above your onsight max, DIALED, like they take you 3 goes to project, but then you can do them in your sleep. They should be longish, like at least 7 moves.

Also, you will have set a "numbers lap" (as I mentioned before) of around 25 moves that traverses along the bottom of a wall, then moves up, and then back down to finish where you started. There should be jugs for shaking on, but NO no-hands rests to cheat yourself on. When you are done, you should not be trashed, but should feel like you just climbed a pumpy 5.11b/c.

IMPORTANT: each of the problems you have dialed should start somewhere off of the numbers lap.

Now, do the numbers lap, breathing, chalking, resting, and go directly into one of the problems you have dialed. Obviously, this is supposed to simulate a more endurance route, in which you have to pull off moves that are hard for you, while you are really pumped. It's really fun to figure out what your threshhold is. At peak fitness, I was able to do 7-10 move v6s under full pump, which felt no different than redpointing a solid 5.13.

Ok, that's awl.

I saw that you were the last pos(t)er over there and thought "hmm, Jak is running with a new crowd I see". But then I looked and was like "oh, ok".

Yeah, haven't found pretty danzing boys that would make me forgo climbing, so I figured I might as well try harder climbing.

just clicked on this, and it was teh wimminz speed final. not very interesting. I assume I have missed nathan by now.

got some werd from teh AB ... he is werking teh werks 7 days a weke and will not be at teh meetup.

something about it would take the whole weke end just to find his climbing gearz in the closet.

bois with short hair look fine.

wut? i would have described my face as pretty angular. sharp jawline, not-round nose. I tend to think sharper facial features are kind of a prereq for looking decent with really short hair. Sharp features and short hair tends to look fey instead of just odd.

Mari thinks I shood cut my hairs... She said, aren't ewe getting a little old to be reliving yore younger hippy glory dayz?

She might has teh poynt.

I must've been falling asleep when I typed that. I meant you and Lena's faces were MORE angular, and less round. But in Lena's case short hair does knot look good, whereas it does on ewe.

Choosey sucks.

Pathetic

It's hard to tell him that next comp he should spend some time sucking less without looking like a bitch wife on facespace.

So don't do it. He is already posting on facespace about how much he sucks. Now your job is to tell him that he doesn't.

Somehow, I can't see Beccs doing that. She's always been more of a negative reinforcer, from my perspective. She should just tell him that he is Canada's Last Great Hope.

Yeah, well, it isn't like we all have never done THAT. I take my words back. chossy sucks, and you should tell him that.

They have a very loving relationship; there have been plenty of times that Chossy has told Beccs that she shouldn't have fallen there, either.

Well, sheeit. I suppose everyone else is out climbing the climbs. Out east it is actually perfect Chattanooggee conditions, and my facespace feed is rife with people tawking about how awesome it is. Gargh.

I dropped a tiny piece of fish in the kitchen just now. It was cod. Good shit. Feisty went and sniffed it, kicked it around a bit, and then walked off without cleaning up the gawddamned mess. That cat ain't right.

I wouldn't call pulling the thankgiving turkey off the counter superior.....