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Best approach shoes???
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bimmer3ci


Jan 22, 2013, 3:34 PM
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Best approach shoes???
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I would like some approach shoes that i could climb 5.7-5.8 in. Anything out there that good? Ive been looking at Five Ten Guide Tennies, Sportiva Boulder X, Scarpa Zen and a few others. Give me your opinion. No, i dont want a pair of climbing shoes. I have plenty.


treemonkey


Jan 22, 2013, 7:04 PM
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I have a pair of the La Sportiva Ganda and they kick ass. I can climb up to 5.10 in them, but they are pricey. I just order a pair of the Sportiva Explores which are the same as the Boulder x with a synthetic upper, which makes them breathable.


Khoi


Jan 22, 2013, 7:23 PM
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5.10 Daescents


acorneau


Jan 23, 2013, 5:21 AM
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I've used Evolv Strykers for 4-5 years and they're great. They're no longer made but look at the Bolt for something similar.

I've recently started using the Daescents for setting in the gym. They're better for climbing but not comfortable enough for hiking or longer approaches.


rhythm164


Jan 23, 2013, 7:47 AM
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love the 5.10 guides. you should be able to put down 5.8 or harder in them and they wont break the bank.


wonderwoman


Jan 23, 2013, 7:57 AM
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moved from general to gear heads by ww.


Rudmin


Jan 23, 2013, 7:58 AM
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I like my Evolv Cruzers because they are cheap light and stylish enough to wear around town. They are definitely not durable for hiking though. I can easily climb 5.8 in them.


lena_chita
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Jan 23, 2013, 8:08 AM
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bimmer3ci wrote:
I would like some approach shoes that i could climb 5.7-5.8 in. Anything out there that good? Ive been looking at Five Ten Guide Tennies, Sportiva Boulder X, Scarpa Zen and a few others. Give me your opinion. No, i dont want a pair of climbing shoes. I have plenty.

Probably all of them. But have you tried any of them on? They fit quite differently.

I have both the tennies and Sportiva BoulderX, but I am not very impressed with the latter (I would have never bought them, but I won a pair of la Sportiva climbing shoes, and when I ordered them, they didn't have my size in stock, and sent me these Boulder X shoes instead. I was really bummed).

Tennies feel much lighter, not as "hot" in warm weather, and there is none of that 'extra sole" that is glued at the bottom of BoulderX. Tennies are much better fit for me, too. So my vote goes for 5.10 Tennies. And yes, I have climbed 5.9 in them.


surfstar


Jan 23, 2013, 8:56 AM
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While we're on the topic of spray - I've climbed 5.8 in my Uggs.


edge


Jan 23, 2013, 9:36 AM
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bimmer3ci wrote:
I would like some approach shoes that i could climb 5.7-5.8 in. Anything out there that good? Ive been looking at Five Ten Guide Tennies, Sportiva Boulder X, Scarpa Zen and a few others. Give me your opinion. No, i dont want a pair of climbing shoes. I have plenty.

Like any shoes, it depends on the fit. I have low volume feet (size 13) and the old Montrail D7 used to fit perfectly and allowed me to climb up to certain 5.10s in them.

I have since used the Scarpa Zen and the Five Ten Guide Tennies, and they both are great shoes, but are a little sloppy in the toe box for me. The better rubber, however, compensates for the slight ill fit.


billcoe_


Jan 23, 2013, 10:57 AM
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I have 6 or 7 different pairs of approach shoes. IN MY OPNION, The best ones for climbing are the 5.10 Guide Tennies followed by the Evolvs I have which are currently discontinued. Photo below. I have a lot of mileage on the Evolvs as they hiked real well, and were stiff enough to kick steps in dirt and mud and get good steps.

Seen here below on a 5.8. I led up to 5.9 in them. They were resoled once and don't fit as good as the 5.10ies or they might be #1.




bearbreeder


Jan 23, 2013, 11:51 AM
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surfstar wrote:
While we're on the topic of spray - I've climbed 5.8 in my Uggs.

since were all spraying ... and i NEVER miss a chance to spray ... Tongue

soft 5.11+ in my guide tennies



the daescents climb the best out of all the shoes ive tried ... but then they are not durable at all and mine fell apart in 2 months

i might just get another pair though as i want to send the "first 5.12 in north america" in em with hexes and nuts as a homage to those old geezers back in '75

In that year of 1975 Eric Weinstein free-climbed Sentry Box at Squamish, establishing the first 5.12 in North America, ground-up. He was armed with only the stiff-wire nuts and simple hexes of the day, a swami belt around his waist, no chalk bag, no cams, and 1960s-era rock shoes that were of less use than today’s approach shoes. Weinstein pushed his head out on his first 5.12 lead into a new level of difficulty for everyone. Anyone today can try Sentry Box with the same gear, onsight as a first 5.12, but it would take formidable talent to have much chance of success.



http://gripped.com/...s/the-climbing-life/
Wink


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jan 23, 2013, 11:53 AM)


olderic


Jan 23, 2013, 11:55 AM
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Some one should be quoting Largo from ~40 years ago - "It's not..."

But since there is a full blow sprayfest going on I will say that I have done the Cathedral Traverse (that would be in the Tetons for you gym rats) - climbing to 5.9, 3 major peaks (the 3 Tetons), 9K vertical feet.. - in my Guide Tennies


saint_john


Jan 23, 2013, 12:32 PM
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I've got a pair of Scarpa Crux's and I love them. My local crag has a lot of slick, slabby rock on the approach and even with a heavy pack I feel sure footed and confident. I've used them for easy bouldering/scrambling too.
They're made from somewhat thick leather though, with little ventilation. Keep that in mind if you live in a hotter climate.


curt


Jan 23, 2013, 12:50 PM
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treemonkey wrote:
I have a pair of the La Sportiva Ganda and they kick ass. I can climb up to 5.10 in them, but they are pricey...

+1 for the Ganda



Curt
Attachments: Ganda.jpg (139 KB)


billcoe_


Jan 23, 2013, 7:49 PM
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I have the Gandas, the 5.10ies are better. Lighter as well so that long days and approaches do not seem so long. Less than half the price would be an additional issue recommending the 5.10ies.

5.10 products, by near universal consent, do not last as long as LaSportiva products. Not even close. Pretty much across the board that is a truism. Will you get twice the life out of a Ganda, most likely you'll get a bunch more resoles.

You might try both on. LaSportiva makes better fitting products for me, but of course, your results will vary.


donnie


Jan 24, 2013, 11:14 AM
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another vote for the 5.10 guide tennies. i originally got them for freerunning, but blew my shoulder out and gave it up. ive since used them for hiking and climbing routes up to .10. theyre light enough for several-day jaunts in the outdoors as well as hoppin on most moderate routes. only issue ive had with the three year old pair i have now is the soles peeling off around the fronts due to lending them to a newer climber and his bad footwork. they stick like crazy and feel light and comfy for days at a time. like most 5.10 products the sizing can be goofy, so try em on first, but you wont be disappointed.


trisgo


Jan 24, 2013, 7:07 PM
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I have 5.10 Warhawks and really like them. ...wish I had gotten a size bigger.


curt


Jan 24, 2013, 8:01 PM
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Khoi wrote:
5.10 Daescents

Shitty approach shoes, although you can climb pretty hard in them.

Curt


Khoi


Jan 25, 2013, 2:13 AM
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curt wrote:
Khoi wrote:
5.10 Daescents

Shitty approach shoes, although you can climb pretty hard in them.

Curt

It appears that I am alone in my preference for the 5.10 Daescents.

I like them for their light weight and sticky rubber. They serve me well for allthe approaches I've ever done.

For those of you who have used them. What did you not like about them?


SICgrips


Jan 25, 2013, 5:01 AM
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I would second the 5.10 Tennies and the Gandas. The Tennies are better at friction and slab while I prefer the Gandas for most everything else. I also have the Scarpa Zens and while they are really well made, they are heavy, stiff and the toe is kinda boxy/bulky. I've relegated them to hiking only. If interested in Scarpas, I'd check out the Crux. They might be more climbing oriented and a bit lighter.


(This post was edited by SICgrips on Jan 25, 2013, 1:20 PM)


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