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Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain
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lippsjr


Jan 28, 2013, 3:56 PM
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Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain
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Hey,

I'm really at a lost on my injury.

I was on a very technical crimpy route when I had my righthand in a full crimp and felt a sudden pain to my right ring finger. I shook it out and attempted the route some more, only noticing the pain in the midsection between the two joints when I went back to that full crimp position. It was definitely not a bone/joint/arthritis pain. Saw a doctor and took an xray - no fractures or brakes. They said stay off of it, ice it, etc.

That was five months ago.

Day-to-day I have no pain, but whenever I put my right ring finger in that full crimp position and hold it, I feel a surge of pain between the two joints in that midsection. It's isolated to the area and when I pull it out of the position, the pain almost stops immediately. There is slight inflammation on top of the finger that has receded in time - though still pronounced in comparison to the others.

I have a date with a specialist, but he's not available for weeks.

Any information helps.

Thanks.


(This post was edited by lippsjr on Jan 28, 2013, 3:56 PM)


redlude97


Jan 28, 2013, 6:07 PM
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Re: [lippsjr] Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain [In reply to]
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sounds like a pulley injury


Partner cracklover


Jan 29, 2013, 6:14 AM
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Re: [lippsjr] Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain [In reply to]
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lippsjr wrote:
Hey,

I'm really at a lost on my injury.

I was on a very technical crimpy route when I had my righthand in a full crimp and felt a sudden pain to my right ring finger. I shook it out and attempted the route some more, only noticing the pain in the midsection between the two joints when I went back to that full crimp position. It was definitely not a bone/joint/arthritis pain. Saw a doctor and took an xray - no fractures or brakes. They said stay off of it, ice it, etc.

That was five months ago.

Day-to-day I have no pain, but whenever I put my right ring finger in that full crimp position and hold it, I feel a surge of pain between the two joints in that midsection. It's isolated to the area and when I pull it out of the position, the pain almost stops immediately. There is slight inflammation on top of the finger that has receded in time - though still pronounced in comparison to the others.

I have a date with a specialist, but he's not available for weeks.

Any information helps.

Thanks.

You've almost certainly strained or ruptured a finger pulley. Classic symptoms.

You can search here on rc.com for a lot more info, but here are a few places to start:

What's where in your fingers -> http://www.wheelessonline.com/image2/phl3.jpg

What you need -> http://www.amazon.com/...323794944&sr=1-1

My experience and what I learned from it -> http://www.rockclimbing.com/...4;page=unread#unread

Good luck!

GO


Tfinney110


Jan 29, 2013, 6:57 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:

What you need -> http://www.amazon.com/...323794944&sr=1-1

You do NOT need to spend $175 on an over priced book. You can easily find what your looking for searching rc.com or the internet.


Partner cracklover


Jan 29, 2013, 7:44 AM
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Re: [Tfinney110] Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain [In reply to]
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Tfinney110 wrote:
cracklover wrote:

What you need -> http://www.amazon.com/...323794944&sr=1-1

You do NOT need to spend $175 on an over priced book. You can easily find what your looking for searching rc.com or the internet.

Holy crap, I had no idea they were charging that much for it on Amazon now!

I didn't mean he had to buy it at Amazon, though. You can find it elsewhere for a fairly reasonable price. The Amazon link is a good one, just because it's always there.

Yes, you can find just about anything on the internet. But the book is a coherently constructed set of information that's put together well. The internet is no match for that.

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Jan 29, 2013, 7:45 AM)


camhead


Jan 29, 2013, 9:08 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain [In reply to]
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As everyone upthread has said, it's probably some sort of pulley injury; I'm surprised that your doctor did not bring that up, he or she would have to be really clueless not to.

Not surprised that it was your ring finger, those tend to be the ones that get injured the most frequently: they're weak like a pinky, but get subjected to the same loads that you put on your index or middle.

Pulley/tendon injuries can be really touchy and diverse. Sometimes they come with a discernible "pop," other times they start gradually the next day. Sometimes they will swell your finger to the size of a sausage, other times they won't. Sometimes you can climb around them by working on slopers or cracks, other times you can't. Recovery can take a week, or six months.


lippsjr


Jan 29, 2013, 3:30 PM
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Re: [lippsjr] Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain [In reply to]
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Thank you, everyone. The info helps and means a lot to me. Could anyone share stories or knows links to comparable pulley injuries where the healing took this long? And what the final outcome was?

I'm really trying to gauge whether I'll return to my passion of climbing this year... At this point, I've come to accept that it may be permanent...


Partner cracklover


Jan 30, 2013, 8:12 AM
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Re: [lippsjr] Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain [In reply to]
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lippsjr wrote:
Thank you, everyone. The info helps and means a lot to me. Could anyone share stories or knows links to comparable pulley injuries where the healing took this long? And what the final outcome was?

I'm really trying to gauge whether I'll return to my passion of climbing this year... At this point, I've come to accept that it may be permanent...

Um, do you know how to click on a link? Because that's what I did.

I've had two fairly severe pulley injuries, and have trolled the internet and the real world for resources. I'm no expert, but am happy to share what I've learned.

Here are a few more links that you may find helpful:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...w_flat;post=2500656;

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=1556109

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=2557582

What's where -> http://www.wheelessonline.com/image2/phl3.jpg

What you need -> http://www.amazon.com/...323794944&sr=1-1

My first experience and what I learned from it -> http://www.rockclimbing.com/...4;page=unread#unread

My second one: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=2508908;#2508908

Take a look, and let me know if there are any other questions that come up you think I could help with. Feel free to PM me if you prefer.

Good luck!

GO


onceahardman


Jan 30, 2013, 10:17 AM
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Re: [lippsjr] Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain [In reply to]
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lippsjr, I used to contribute here more often. Cracklover has linked to several relevant threads.

In general, wait a few days until you have no pain at rest. Don't keep poking and pulling on your finger to see if it still hurts. Move the fingers (make a fist, then spread the fingers) hundreds of times a day, as long as that does not make your symptoms worse.In a couple weeks, start doing a bit of resistive exercise.

Also, learn to use and trust the open grip, instead of crimping. You will have less chance of re-injury.


lippsjr


Jan 30, 2013, 5:07 PM
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Re: [onceahardman] Full Crimp Ring Finger Pain [In reply to]
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Again, thank you!

I'll try to figure those link things out as I convalesce.


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