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kferg21


Jan 29, 2013, 6:18 PM
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newbie gear questions
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I am fairly new to rock climbing and really love the sport. I have pretty much the basic essentials except rope because to this point I have only climbed indoors and didn't need to supply my own rope. This April I will be taking a class on lead climbing and want to go outdoors when it warms up a little. Is there certain specs for ropes that would be better for more sport climbing and top rope climbing outdoors? Also what would be a good length to get, or does that matter on where I climb? Also any retailers that is recommended that are located in or with in 50 miles of Spokane, WA?


socalclimber


Jan 29, 2013, 7:18 PM
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Re: [kferg21] newbie gear questions [In reply to]
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I'm not sure about the climbing stores near you. I'm sure someone here in your area will post up.

As far as ropes go, just get yourself a reasonably priced entry level rope. Pretty much all the manufacturers have something in that range. 60 Meters is the typical range these days. Buying a $200+ rope for your first rope is not a good idea. You'll likely just trash it.

Everybody is going to jump in on this thread and give you tons of "advice". Just go with something cost effective. You should not have to pay more than around $170. Starting prices seem to be around $150 depending on where you get it from.

Good luck with your class!


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jan 29, 2013, 7:21 PM)


darylknezevich


Jan 29, 2013, 7:37 PM
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Re: [kferg21] newbie gear questions [In reply to]
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This guy is on point. The only thing I would add is you definatley dont need anything thick like a 10mm go fro something around a 9.8 or 9.7 it will be lighter on the approach routes and they usually carry more spring for when you are jus starting out and lead falling a bunch.


shockabuku


Jan 29, 2013, 8:12 PM
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Re: [kferg21] newbie gear questions [In reply to]
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http://www.mountaingear.com/.../home.htm?Ntt=retail


socalclimber


Jan 29, 2013, 8:18 PM
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Re: [darylknezevich] newbie gear questions [In reply to]
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darylknezevich wrote:
This guy is on point. The only thing I would add is you definatley dont need anything thick like a 10mm go fro something around a 9.8 or 9.7 it will be lighter on the approach routes and they usually carry more spring for when you are jus starting out and lead falling a bunch.

I have to say I don't really agree with the diameter. I understand your point with a more experienced climber, but this guy is just a beginner. Better to get a little sturdier rope to start with.

There are also issues regarding belaying with smaller diameter ropes. Not the best choice for a beginner in my opinion.


wivanoff


Jan 30, 2013, 6:21 AM
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Re: [kferg21] newbie gear questions [In reply to]
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Fairly new and first rope?

You want something that you're not going to trash quickly and not too expensive. So maybe stay away from the skinny ropes for now. The skinny ropes seem to wear faster and the really skinny ones don't grip as well through the belay device. The people who advise beginners to buy skinny ropes will also advise you to buy your shoes way too small....

And, being new, I bet you'll still do a lot of toproping. My recommendation would be 10-10.5 mm x 60 meter. You should be able to find an entry level rope for <$160 sometimes with a rope bag included. And the "weight" of a 10-10.5 is not going to prevent a new climber from sending his project.

Dry coating probably won't matter too much for you and most wear off pretty quickly, anyway. But, if only a couple bucks difference, go for it.

I like:
Sterling, Mammut, Bluewater (currently own one of each and 2 Mammut Genesis)

Don't like:
Beal, Petzl, New England (My Beal didn't last at all)


qwert


Jan 30, 2013, 6:30 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] newbie gear questions [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
darylknezevich wrote:
This guy is on point. The only thing I would add is you definatley dont need anything thick like a 10mm go fro something around a 9.8 or 9.7 it will be lighter on the approach routes and they usually carry more spring for when you are jus starting out and lead falling a bunch.

I have to say I don't really agree with the diameter. I understand your point with a more experienced climber, but this guy is just a beginner. Better to get a little sturdier rope to start with.

There are also issues regarding belaying with smaller diameter ropes. Not the best choice for a beginner in my opinion.
Another vote for going not too thin.
9.8 can work, however some will be quite hard to grab until they get a bit fuzzy. What i used to use is 10.2. 10.5 is also OK, but they easily get too thick after some use and make belaying a pain in the ass.

Price: you dont necessarily need to get the cheapest rope you can get, but i wouldnt suggest to go for some of the ultra fancy bipattern ultradry++ megawahtever ropes.

Length: Depends on the area you are going to climb at. there are some areas where 50m is enough, and there are some where 70m is mandatory, but from my perspective those two seem to be exceptions, so a 60m should be good enough. Just dont forget to make some knots in the ends.

qwert


donnie


Jan 31, 2013, 8:28 AM
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another vote for not going too skinny for a first rope. people starting out tend to over-analyse things and spend more for things they dont need at this point. for starting out, id say go for 10.0-10.3x60. skinnier ropes wear quicker and slip through belay devices more than thicker ropes. also, you dont need all the bells and whistles like dry treating and bicolor ropes to begin with, just get a decently priced rope and go. i started with a 10.3x60m edelweiss and it worked its butt off for me. i could lead comfortably with it, and it was thick enough to be comfortable setting up topropes for people without worrying about them thrashing it running laps all day. the few ounces saved going with too skinny a rope are negligible when compared to the peace of mind gained learning with something a little beefier and will catch easier in your belay device, especially as a beginner learning to belay better and catch falls.


maldaly


Jan 31, 2013, 9:00 AM
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Re: [kferg21] newbie gear questions [In reply to]
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Mountain Gear is in downtown Spokane. Shops don't get much better than that. They are online at www.mountaingear.com.

Also, you can't go wrong with a 10.0 to 10.3mm X 60M rope. Sterling rocks, but I don't think anyone is making crappy ropes.

Climb Safe,
Mal


deschamps1000


Jan 31, 2013, 3:12 PM
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Yup, 10 to 10.5 is the way to go. You will be (unknowingly) abusing your rope a bit so might as well go thicker.


kferg21


Jan 31, 2013, 4:02 PM
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Ok thats good to know. Any tips that a lot of people do that abuse their first rope that I should be aware of.


moose_droppings


Jan 31, 2013, 5:46 PM
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Those are trade secrets.

Your bound by everything sacred to repeat them, regardless if we tell you or not.
Wink


kferg21


Jan 31, 2013, 10:34 PM
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Ok and with regards to someone saying "Toproping is bad for you and anyone else!
Don't toprope!" Is that true or was it a sarcastic joke that I apparently don't get?


qwert


Feb 1, 2013, 12:41 AM
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…both

toproping puts a lot of wear on your rope. It is made to take this abuse, so it will not break or something, but you will have to replace it sooner if you toprope a lot.

And then there is that whole issue of groups of people running around the sensitive top of a cliff, throwing down ropes and gangraping, err -roping, routes for hours on end.

There is nothing wrong with toproping a route once or twice after someone has led it before, to train on something harder than ones personal lead level, but toproping for the sake of toproping on the other hand…

qwert


iknowfear


Feb 1, 2013, 1:35 AM
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kferg21 wrote:
Ok thats good to know. Any tips that a lot of people do that abuse their first rope that I should be aware of.

- don't use your rope directly. uncoil it. (or ask the shop to do it for you)

- use a rope bag


deschamps1000


Feb 1, 2013, 7:14 AM
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1. use a ropebag or tarp
2. Try and minimize rock on rope friction, especially when the rope is weighted. You may need to extend top rope anchors. You basically want to avoid having the tope rubbing against rock hard. Sometimes this is unavoidable, but do what you can to have it happen less.


Partner cracklover


Feb 1, 2013, 8:02 AM
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Re: [qwert] newbie gear questions [In reply to]
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I'll finish that sentence for you...

qwert wrote:
There is nothing wrong with toproping a route once or twice after someone has led it before, to train on something harder than ones personal lead level, but toproping for the sake of toproping on the other hand…

... is a fine way to climb for beginners or anyone else who just doesn't want to lead (yet).

GTongue


markc


Feb 1, 2013, 11:03 AM
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cracklover wrote:
I'll finish that sentence for you...

qwert wrote:
There is nothing wrong with toproping a route once or twice after someone has led it before, to train on something harder than ones personal lead level, but toproping for the sake of toproping on the other hand…

... is a fine way to climb for beginners or anyone else who just doesn't want to lead (yet).

GTongue

Beat me to the punch. It's fine for anyone who doesn't want to lead yet, or just that day. There are also some crags that only lend themselves to toproping. Besides, "train[ing] on something harder than ones personal lead level" sounds a lot like toproping for the sake of toproping.


markc


Feb 1, 2013, 11:15 AM
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I second the general recommendation for a rope in the 10 - 10.5 mm x 60 m range. If you can't get the price down to $125, I'd give it week and try again. Sites like Spadout can help you in comparing prices.

http://www.spadout.com/c/ropes-single/

Check out the Mammut Vertex or Eiger.


kferg21


Feb 3, 2013, 2:38 AM
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In reply to:
That is a huge help to me. Do you know any negative elements to the Bluewater Accelerator rope?


wivanoff


Feb 3, 2013, 4:39 AM
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kferg21 wrote:
That is a huge help to me. Do you know any negative elements to the Bluewater Accelerator rope?

Accelerator is on the larger size at 10.5mm
Eliminator is 10.2mm

Neither have middle marks, IIRC. Either would make a great first rope. Both have similar characteristics and can be found for <$160 for 60meters.


bearbreeder


Feb 3, 2013, 9:37 AM
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Re: [cracklover] newbie gear questions [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
I'll finish that sentence for you...

qwert wrote:
There is nothing wrong with toproping a route once or twice after someone has led it before, to train on something harder than ones personal lead level, but toproping for the sake of toproping on the other hand…

... is a fine way to climb for beginners or anyone else who just doesn't want to lead (yet).

GTongue

ahhh ... but then you have the chronic top ropers ... the ones who top rope moderates all day with no real purpose ...

and the gangbangs ... its not till you see 20+ top ropers hogging up the entire wall and refusing to let anyone else climb ...

and lets not forget the tough guys ... theyll start screaming about how awwwwsum they are for top roping a 5.11 "onsight" with a few falls, an assisted dyno and flying traverses

and then the multipitch top ropers ... those that will rap down a route or beg you to lead up the first pitch so that they and their friends and hog the multipitch for their top roping fun ... ive had people get angry because i wouldnt lead up to set up a top rope for them on the starting pitch of a popular multipitch

and the top rope vampires ... these people will hang around crags that you cant easily setup ropes from the top, and seek other people to set up ropes for them and their posse ... or thell harass you to bring them up a multi, but they are too scarred to lead even the easiest pitches

and then the RC.com special .. those that scream about how leading is dangerous and you shouldnt fall ... and telling everyone else how unsafe their "sport" anchors are ..

if you are a chronic top roper ... just ask yourself this ... when you take your yosemite trip ... are you going to spend all your time at swan slab top roping ... or are you going to beg other people to haul your top roping azz up the royal arches, telling them they have to do all the work ...

or are you just going to go and lead the effing thing and climb whatever you want

Tongue


as to ropes ... what everyone else said ... cheap, 10-10.3mm, no dry or duodess needed, length depends on yr area and how likely you are to chop the ends from falls

etc ...

TOPPU ROPERU TOFU GUYS !!!


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Feb 3, 2013, 9:40 AM)


Syd


Feb 4, 2013, 4:17 PM
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Don't worry about bearbreeder. He's a scared bunny who needs ropes to climb rather than being a bold, go anywhere, free soloist.

If you want to minimise your risk of injuries/death; climb trad, or safer climb sport, or safer boulder, or safer TR, or safer climb indoors sport, or safer indoors TR.

Outdoors TR I'd agree with most and go for a cheap 10.3.

BTW, here's Chris Sharma on top rope: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMWc-CKshO8


(This post was edited by Syd on Feb 4, 2013, 4:20 PM)


bearbreeder


Feb 4, 2013, 9:49 PM
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Says the guy whos too afraid to fall in the gym Wink

If u want to climb big things or take roadtrips and not beg others to do the work for ya ... Ya cant spend all yr time being a top rope tough guy

Its that simple

Tongue


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