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learning trad at yosemite
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regada07


Feb 1, 2013, 3:12 PM
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learning trad at yosemite  (North_America: United_States: California: Yosemite_National_Park)
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Okay so I'm thinking about living in and around Yosemite this summer as much as I can however I have yet to do any trad climbing. I have done some sport and know my way around the gear pretty well but I am dying to learn some trad. Does anybody have any advice on how to sort of go about doing that at Yosemite? Also, I would be alone so I would need to meet people, hopefully ones who could teach me. Or should I take a class? What do I do? I JUST WANT TO CLIMB and Yosemite seems like such a classic place to be.


Kartessa


Feb 1, 2013, 3:32 PM
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Re: [regada07] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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regada07 wrote:
Okay so I'm thinking about living in and around Yosemite this summer as much as I can however I have yet to do any trad climbing. I have done some sport and know my way around the gear pretty well but I am dying to learn some trad. Does anybody have any advice on how to sort of go about doing that at Yosemite? Also, I would be alone so I would need to meet people, hopefully ones who could teach me. Or should I take a class? What do I do? I JUST WANT TO CLIMB and Yosemite seems like such a classic place to be.

It's not a bad idea... But you're going to have to be patient.

Set up in camp 4, but note that during peak season you can't stay longer than 14 days. While you're there, be social and HONEST. Don't bullshit about your abilities and stress that you want to learn.

You'll spend a lot of time following, belaying, carrying shit, asking questions and offering a beer at the end of the day as a token of your gratitude.

Don't get upset if people say no.


patto


Feb 1, 2013, 4:05 PM
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Re: [regada07] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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Agree with above. Also....

regada07 wrote:
Does anybody have any advice on how to sort of go about doing that at Yosemite?
Hang out at the camp fires, be friendly and bring the beer!

regada07 wrote:
Also, I would be alone so I would need to meet people, hopefully ones who could teach me.
Being taught is harder, but if you can second competently the you may get help. Having boobs would make things MUCH easier.

regada07 wrote:
I JUST WANT TO CLIMB and Yosemite seems like such a classic place to be.
It is.


maldaly


Feb 1, 2013, 9:07 PM
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Re: [regada07] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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You won't be alone. Here is a list of some of the people who have learned trad climbing in Yosemite:

Jim Bridwell
Dale Bard
Yvon Chouinard
Royal Robbins
Ron Kauk
John Bachar
Ammon McNeely
Jim Donini
Doug Tompkins
Sybille Hechtel
John Salathé
John Muir
Merry Braun
Werner Braun
Hans Florine
Lynn Hill
Dean Potter
Alex Honnold
Peter Croft

Do I need to go on? You'll be in good company as you learn the skills.

Climb safe,
Malcolm


USnavy


Feb 2, 2013, 2:51 AM
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Re: [maldaly] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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While possible, Yosemite is not necessarily the best place to start climbing trad. In fact, Chris Mac says something to that effect in opening statements in many of his guidebooks. The problem is that Yosemite often involves mostly pure crack climbing on somewhat polished rock. That combined with mostly steep routes, stiff grades, a lack of easy climbing, and a lack of crack climbing and pin scar climbing skills can serve as a recipe for failure/ injury.

I am not going to say Yosemite is a bad place to learn trad. I learned almost everything I know about wall climbing in Yosemite. But I will say that there are certainly easier and safer places to learn trad. The upside is that the general experience level in Yosemite is higher than most places which increases the odds of partnering up with someone actually qualified to teach trad. But make no mistake, there are still plenty of noobs who try to climb the Nose and bail off the second pitch from a lack of experience.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 2, 2013, 2:58 AM)


billl7


Feb 2, 2013, 5:08 AM
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Re: [regada07] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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First off, I'm not an experienced Yosemite climber although I did climb every day for a week up in Tuolumne last summer.

Second, do you have to wait until Yosemite? If your main experience is sport then you are going to really slow down a competent person even if you can climb harder - not good! Can you take a class in the next few months that focuses on skills that will matter on traditional multi-pitch:

* aiming the belay from a mid-cliff anchor whether belaying from below or above;
* rappeling from crappy starts;
* ascending a rope;
* escape the belay perhaps under less than ideal conditions;
* cleaning gear;
* re-racking for the next pitch;
* building belay-anchors;
* and anything else you can learn.

Is summer a very good time to climb down in the valley?

Bill L


jolery


Feb 7, 2013, 7:35 AM
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Re: [regada07] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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regada07 wrote:
Okay so I'm thinking about living in and around Yosemite this summer as much as I can however I have yet to do any trad climbing. I have done some sport and know my way around the gear pretty well but I am dying to learn some trad. Does anybody have any advice on how to sort of go about doing that at Yosemite? Also, I would be alone so I would need to meet people, hopefully ones who could teach me. Or should I take a class? What do I do? I JUST WANT TO CLIMB and Yosemite seems like such a classic place to be.

DO IT! Very easy to meet climbers - post a note on the bulletin board at Camp 4 - used to be mostly climbing partner notes now it's more people selling gear but it's still an easy way to meet people. Like others have said you will do a lot of following but that will teach you many things.


jt512


Feb 7, 2013, 9:34 AM
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Re: [regada07] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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regada07 wrote:
Okay so I'm thinking about living in and around Yosemite this summer as much as I can however I have yet to do any trad climbing. I have done some sport and know my way around the gear pretty well but I am dying to learn some trad. Does anybody have any advice on how to sort of go about doing that at Yosemite? Also, I would be alone so I would need to meet people, hopefully ones who could teach me. Or should I take a class? What do I do? I JUST WANT TO CLIMB and Yosemite seems like such a classic place to be.

If you have no trad climbing experience, I'd suggest you start by taking classes with the Yosemite Mountaineering School, followed by a couple of days climbing multi-pitch with a guide. Once that experience is under your belt, you should have the basic skills necessary to competently second multi-pitch routes, and even do some leading with an experienced partner.

Jay


majid_sabet


Feb 7, 2013, 10:10 AM
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Re: [maldaly] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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maldaly wrote:
You won't be alone. Here is a list of some of the people who have learned trad climbing in Yosemite:

Jim Bridwell
Dale Bard
Yvon Chouinard
Royal Robbins
Ron Kauk
John Bachar
Ammon McNeely
Jim Donini
Doug Tompkins
Sybille Hechtel
John Salathé
John Muir
Merry Braun
Werner Braun
Hans Florine
Lynn Hill
Dean Potter
Alex Honnold
Peter Croft

Do I need to go on? You'll be in good company as you learn the skills.

Climb safe,
Malcolm

go on, add a few more

How about Chongo


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 7, 2013, 10:10 AM)


marc801


Feb 7, 2013, 12:45 PM
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Re: [billl7] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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billl7 wrote:
Is summer a very good time to climb down in the valley?
Not really. Many do, and it can be cooler on a wall once you're up 5-ish pitches, but most just find it too hot, dusty, crowded, and kind of unpleasant. At one time the Yosemite Mountaineering School offered their rock climbing classes only in Tuolumne Meadows during the summer. I also had a friend get severe - as in life threatening - heat stroke trying to do Serenity/Sons of Yesterday in late July. His endocrine system and heat regulation were so messed up that he couldn't climb anything other than one pitch shady routes on cool days for a few years afterwards.


kirkbrode


Jul 22, 2013, 2:40 PM
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Re: [marc801] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
billl7 wrote:
Is summer a very good time to climb down in the valley?
Not really.
+1

marc801 wrote:
Tuolumne Meadows during the summer.
+1


dugl33


Jul 22, 2013, 3:32 PM
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Re: [regada07] learning trad at yosemite [In reply to]
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Some really solid advice so far...

1.) starting with a class to learn gear placement and anchor building is a great idea.

2.) come ready to work and help your team, i.e. you and your partner.

A. Have your harness, shoes, chalk bag, ATC and locker, and possibly a PAS and some additional lockers. If you want to contribute gear having a nice 10 or 10.2 mm x 60 m rope in good condition is a good place to start. It allows a stronger partner to wear out your gear rather than theirs dragging you around.

B. Bring a mostly empty pack and offer to carry your share.

C. Be on the lookout for what needs to be done to stay organized and efficient. Flake out the rope, organize the rack, etc.

D. Be an attentive belayer.

E. Pulling out the cooler at the end of the day with some cold beers is almost always appreciated.

If you do these things your apt to get in some mileage, you'll get to follow a lot and begin to understand what good gear looks like and can then transition into leading some of the easier, well protected pitches.


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