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summitseeker91
Jan 31, 2013, 8:03 PM
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Registered: Jan 31, 2013
Posts: 6
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Hello everyone! Glad to be a new member of this network of knowledge and crag bums.
I'm a climbing bum from the southern IN tristate area and currently away at school in Steubenville, OH. I have been climbing for the past 7 years. Started as a gym rat, then began competing as part of a high school climbing league. Began sport climbing 4 years ago and have loved it ever since. Now I'm looking at diving into some trad but wanted several thoughts on where to begin.
I have been doing research for the past year on gear, taking in advice and opinions on what gear to begin with. As my rack draws to a complete early stage, I want to shape it to the area I climb and plan to climb trad. We climb here in Lisbon OH, and plan to start branching out towards New River and Connelsville in PA and I want my final purchases to best suit these areas. Here is what my rack is looking like so far...
9 BD Hexes size 2-11 (bought used and used 7mm sterling cord to resling)
BD stoppers 4-13
Camelots .5-3
6 Dyneema slings (shoulder width)
12 Draws (6 positron,6 fire wires)
Plus additional standard gear in all sport climber's arsenal.
Now before I get angry posts saying check the search bar, I did, and found the information very helpful. But I am looking for advice specific to my region. Any advice from local trad climbers greatly welcomed.
Finally, before I plan to use any of this gear, other than practice placements on ground level, I plan to take a lead class from Seneca Rocks, a nearby training school that many seem to recommend. I am knowledgeable in sport climbing, as well as anchor building from years of sport climbing. Trad is new though. What are the thoughts of experienced trad climbers? Worth the cost of the class? I do not know any local guys that are willing to teach or take me along for the ride so I am starting from scratch.
My apologies for the novel, but just had several thoughts I wanted approved by the experienced members here. Glad to be on this forum. I'll probably spend a lot of time here.
-SS91
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Dip
Feb 1, 2013, 6:52 AM
Post #2 of 9
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Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 263
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summitseeker91 wrote: Hello everyone! Glad to be a new member of this network of knowledge and crag bums. I'm a climbing bum from the southern IN tristate area and currently away at school in Steubenville, OH. I have been climbing for the past 7 years. Started as a gym rat, then began competing as part of a high school climbing league. Began sport climbing 4 years ago and have loved it ever since. Now I'm looking at diving into some trad but wanted several thoughts on where to begin. I have been doing research for the past year on gear, taking in advice and opinions on what gear to begin with. As my rack draws to a complete early stage, I want to shape it to the area I climb and plan to climb trad. We climb here in Lisbon OH, and plan to start branching out towards New River and Connelsville in PA and I want my final purchases to best suit these areas. Here is what my rack is looking like so far... 9 BD Hexes size 2-11 (bought used and used 7mm sterling cord to resling) BD stoppers 4-13 Camelots .5-3 6 Dyneema slings (shoulder width) 12 Draws (6 positron,6 fire wires) Plus additional standard gear in all sport climber's arsenal. Now before I get angry posts saying check the search bar, I did, and found the information very helpful. But I am looking for advice specific to my region. Any advice from local trad climbers greatly welcomed. Finally, before I plan to use any of this gear, other than practice placements on ground level, I plan to take a lead class from Seneca Rocks, a nearby training school that many seem to recommend. I am knowledgeable in sport climbing, as well as anchor building from years of sport climbing. Trad is new though. What are the thoughts of experienced trad climbers? Worth the cost of the class? I do not know any local guys that are willing to teach or take me along for the ride so I am starting from scratch. My apologies for the novel, but just had several thoughts I wanted approved by the experienced members here. Glad to be on this forum. I'll probably spend a lot of time here. -SS91
Maybe double up on the C4's and get some more slings. Quickdraws kinda suck for trad climbing. A set of smaller cams would be good too. BD C3's, Metolius TCU's, or similar, just depends on personal preference. Can't really speak to whether or not the guiding service is a good idea, but i'm sure it couldn't hurt. The New is a rad, rad, rad place to plug gear. Have fun.
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justroberto
Feb 1, 2013, 8:03 AM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2006
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If it were me, I'd not buy the hexes and double up on cams in the 1" to 2" range for about the same amount of money. After a couple of months climbing on hexes, they'll end up at the bottom of your closet, never to be seen again.
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markc
Feb 1, 2013, 8:06 AM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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Dip wrote: Maybe double up on the C4's and get some more slings. Quickdraws kinda suck for trad climbing. A set of smaller cams would be good too. BD C3's, Metolius TCU's, or similar, just depends on personal preference. Can't really speak to whether or not the guiding service is a good idea, but i'm sure it couldn't hurt. The New is a rad, rad, rad place to plug gear. Have fun.
I agree with the recommendation for smaller cams. If the OP has a limited budget, I'd start there and with maybe 6 more long slings. A couple 48" slings are useful for slinging larger features. He can easily cannibalize biners from quick draws. Draws are occasionally useful, but with some of the wandering routes at Seneca you can create a ton or drag.
At least for the moment, I'd avoid doubling up on bigger sizes of cams. The OP has hexes, which will give him some redundancy in larger sizes. If he takes time and works up through easier grades, he'll find good stances and opportunity to use them. If nothing else, he can build anchors with hexes and conserve cams for leading.
I was fortunate enough to connect with a couple experienced climbers. If you don't have that, I think a class can't hurt. Definitely do homework first - experiment with placements, bounce test, read.
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markc
Feb 1, 2013, 8:08 AM
Post #5 of 9
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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justroberto wrote: If it were me, I'd not buy the hexes and double up on cams in the 1" to 2" range for about the same amount of money. After a couple of months climbing on hexes, they'll end up at the bottom of your closet, never to be seen again.
It seems like he already has them. Might as well spend the coin on things immediately useful and gradually replace the hexes. Once he connects with other climbers they can always pull gear from both their racks.
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maldaly
Feb 1, 2013, 8:38 AM
Post #6 of 9
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1191
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There's some good advice here on the gear. The New River is great because there are a wide variety of crack sizes and configurations all over the place. You can pick you climb based on what rack you have. Here are a couple of additional points that haven't been mentioned"
Do you climb with a consistant partner? If so, you guys can share the rack-building duties. I always did a lot of mix and match with my partners when I was poor.
Go to the local store for the best local advice. Water Stone Outdoors is one of the best climbing shops in the country and they're staffed by active climber with intimate knowledge of the area. Speak to Kenny, one of the owners, and a prolific first ascentionist in the area. (304) 574-2425 Spend some time on their website. They have a terrific set of videos that will give you a great feel for the shop and the people.
If you;re going to take a lead class, take it from the guide service in the area. New River Mountain Guides. They base out of the shop and are all certified AMGA guides. Elaina owns it and will lead you through (no pun intended) the process well. (304) 574-3872
Climb Safe,
Malcolm Daly
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notapplicable
Feb 1, 2013, 12:10 PM
Post #7 of 9
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17671
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Double up on Black Diamond .75, 1 & 2
You definitely need smaller cams. I'd get Mastercams 0 - 4. 1 & 2 will be the most useful and doubles wouldn't hurt but aren't necessary right away. Don't buy the 5 or 6, they are awkward and floppy.
4 more slings if only climbing at the NRG. 6 more slings if doing moderates at Seneca. Remember, you're going to need two dedicated to the anchor in a lot of cases if you plan to do any TRing.
The guide service / lead class is kind of a toss up. If multi-pitch experience is important right now then definitely go to Seneca, obviously. Otherwise, I think you would get more from a trip to the NRG. You will spend so much time focusing on the logistics of multi-pitch climbing at Seneca that you might not walk away knowing as much about, or spend as much time as you would have liked, leading. I personally would focus on rack management, placing solid gear and building anchors and save the multi-pitch for later. Besides, once it warms up a bit, I will be happy to meet you at Seneca one weekend and introduce you to the place. I've been climbing there for 8+ and still do regularly.
Thats a serious offer BTW. Just shoot me a PM and we'll make it happen.
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darylknezevich
Feb 2, 2013, 12:55 PM
Post #8 of 9
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Registered: Sep 16, 2009
Posts: 8
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double up on the cams 1 - 3 hexes are rareley seen or used once you have cams. once you have a cam you really dont want to use anything else because you wont feel safe on it. ridiculous but Ive got hexes that Ive only used once. anyway as far as the class goes that other dude is right. youll just have to take some strangers up on going out and learning what is the right and wrong way to do it all on your own. Thats how I learned, Thats how all the old timers learned. Just be safe and take your time. A little 80' 5.7 never hurt nobody. Many "gym" climbers are somehow appalled at the notion of learning anything at the crag. and the truth is you can learn anything anywhere just as long as you learn it safley. good luck to you. dont do anything you're not comfortable with. the best is having someone else lead and you clean up all the gear that way you can learn how it is put in, and how it should and should not be able to be taken out.
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brinosaur
Feb 19, 2013, 9:58 PM
Post #9 of 9
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Registered: Oct 25, 2010
Posts: 16
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Looks like you've got a decent setup for the Bridge area -- I got lots of mileage from a rack of hexes there. For the rest of the gorge, especially some of the standout crags at Endless, I'd agree with everyone else here and rack up on some small stuff (c3s or TCUs), and doubling up on the .75-#2s would be a good idea. Hell, I'd go for some smaller wires too, if budget allows.
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