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Onlyoriginal
Feb 3, 2013, 5:05 AM
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Registered: Apr 1, 2012
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I LOVE stem climbing and would like to know of some more classic crack or not stem climbs to add to my send list.
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guangzhou
Feb 3, 2013, 9:20 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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What part of the country and what grade?
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USnavy
Feb 3, 2013, 11:17 AM
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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
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Onlyoriginal wrote: I LOVE stem climbing and would like to know of some more classic crack or not stem climbs to add to my send list. Hawaii has some of the best in the nation that I have seen. The majority of our routes are dihedrals and they are very technical. We have a number of dihedrals in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. Devil's Tower is also known for (really wide) stemming on some routes. Basically anywhere you can find columnar basalt you can count on the need to do tons of stemming. So it would try to find columnar basalt crags. I think there is one in the SF area. Smith rocks has some [stemming routes].
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jp_sucks
Feb 3, 2013, 9:18 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 240
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Frenchman's in Washington is all basalt and has some good stemming lines too.
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Samiam277
Feb 4, 2013, 7:29 AM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2007
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It's a bouldering problem, but the name says it all: Stem Gem in J-Tree. John Bachar problem, I think V5.
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bearbreeder
Feb 4, 2013, 7:48 AM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
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can you do 12d on a big wall? https://vimeo.com/19544985 if you are a stemming master come to squamish
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Feb 4, 2013, 7:48 AM)
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camhead
Feb 4, 2013, 1:31 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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Way too many to count. Some of my favorite routes that require stemming/corners, even though some of them the stem is not the crux: Dresden Corner, NRG, 11+ Replicant, NRG, 11+ Second Pitch of Chocolate Corner, Indian Creek, 5.12 Davidson's Dihedral, Paradise Forks, AZ, 11+ Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks, NV, 12- Singapore, City of Rocks, ID, 11- Tombstone Terror, Lovers Leap, CA, 10+
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cracklover
Feb 4, 2013, 8:26 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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One more to add to the list: Flyin' Hawaiian (5.11) at Rumney. Fantastic route. Edited to add pic (not mine, from MP): http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106049603 Hard to tell from the pic, but it's a corner that gets steeper and steeper as it goes, until your stems barely work any more. But just as the wave crests and pushes you out... well, I don't want to spoil the onsight for you, just go do it, it rocks! GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Feb 4, 2013, 8:33 PM)
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matterunomama
Feb 4, 2013, 8:57 PM
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Registered: Mar 11, 2005
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cracklover wrote: One more to add to the list: Flyin' Hawaiian (5.11) at Rumney. Fantastic route. Edited to add pic (not mine, from MP): [image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/96/3/106049603_large_3a8b86.jpg[/image] http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106049603 Hard to tell from the pic, but it's a corner that gets steeper and steeper as it goes, until your stems barely work any more. But just as the wave crests and pushes you out... well, I don't want to spoil the onsight for you, just go do it, it rocks! GO +1 Flyin' Hawaiian is a great route. I hear a lot of whimpering coming from that corner.
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cracklover
Feb 4, 2013, 10:47 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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How about somewhat more advanced stemming (or whatever you call what you'd do in a tight corner), does this also appeal? Like Slot Machine... GO
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brews
Feb 8, 2013, 12:18 AM
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Registered: May 16, 2002
Posts: 41
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incredible hulk! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGA1vI2HxTs
(This post was edited by brews on Feb 8, 2013, 12:22 AM)
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