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What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs?
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Onlyoriginal


Feb 2, 2013, 9:05 PM
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What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs?
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I LOVE stem climbing and would like to know of some more classic crack or not stem climbs to add to my send list.


guangzhou


Feb 3, 2013, 1:20 AM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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What part of the country and what grade?


USnavy


Feb 3, 2013, 3:17 AM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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Onlyoriginal wrote:
I LOVE stem climbing and would like to know of some more classic crack or not stem climbs to add to my send list.
Hawaii has some of the best in the nation that I have seen. The majority of our routes are dihedrals and they are very technical. We have a number of dihedrals in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. Devil's Tower is also known for (really wide) stemming on some routes. Basically anywhere you can find columnar basalt you can count on the need to do tons of stemming. So it would try to find columnar basalt crags. I think there is one in the SF area. Smith rocks has some [stemming routes].


jp_sucks


Feb 3, 2013, 1:18 PM
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Re: [USnavy] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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Frenchman's in Washington is all basalt and has some good stemming lines too.


marc801


Feb 3, 2013, 5:15 PM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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Onlyoriginal wrote:
I LOVE stem climbing and would like to know of some more classic crack or not stem climbs to add to my send list.
Classic stemming climbs:
Matador, Devil's Tower
Bircheff-Williams, Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite Valley (photo snagged off the net below)
Simple Suff, Trapps, The Gunks

...but that's not quite how your question is worded, which seems to be asking for climbs that aren't stemming problems.

Bircheff-Williams

From: http://www.flickr.com/..._outdoor/5494028576/


Samiam277


Feb 3, 2013, 11:29 PM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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It's a bouldering problem, but the name says it all: Stem Gem in J-Tree. John Bachar problem, I think V5.


bearbreeder


Feb 3, 2013, 11:48 PM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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can you do 12d on a big wall?

https://vimeo.com/19544985

if you are a stemming master come to squamish Wink


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Feb 3, 2013, 11:48 PM)


camhead


Feb 4, 2013, 5:31 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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Way too many to count. Some of my favorite routes that require stemming/corners, even though some of them the stem is not the crux:

Dresden Corner, NRG, 11+
Replicant, NRG, 11+
Second Pitch of Chocolate Corner, Indian Creek, 5.12
Davidson's Dihedral, Paradise Forks, AZ, 11+
Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks, NV, 12-
Singapore, City of Rocks, ID, 11-
Tombstone Terror, Lovers Leap, CA, 10+


Partner cracklover


Feb 4, 2013, 12:26 PM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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One more to add to the list: Flyin' Hawaiian (5.11) at Rumney. Fantastic route.

Edited to add pic (not mine, from MP):


http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106049603

Hard to tell from the pic, but it's a corner that gets steeper and steeper as it goes, until your stems barely work any more. But just as the wave crests and pushes you out... well, I don't want to spoil the onsight for you, just go do it, it rocks!

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Feb 4, 2013, 12:33 PM)


matterunomama


Feb 4, 2013, 12:57 PM
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Re: [cracklover] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
One more to add to the list: Flyin' Hawaiian (5.11) at Rumney. Fantastic route.

Edited to add pic (not mine, from MP):

[image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/96/3/106049603_large_3a8b86.jpg[/image]
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106049603

Hard to tell from the pic, but it's a corner that gets steeper and steeper as it goes, until your stems barely work any more. But just as the wave crests and pushes you out... well, I don't want to spoil the onsight for you, just go do it, it rocks!

GO

+1 Flyin' Hawaiian is a great route. I hear a lot of whimpering coming from that corner.


Partner cracklover


Feb 4, 2013, 2:47 PM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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How about somewhat more advanced stemming (or whatever you call what you'd do in a tight corner), does this also appeal?

Like Slot Machine...



GO


brews


Feb 7, 2013, 4:18 PM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] What are some of the best classic Stem Climbs? [In reply to]
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incredible hulk!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGA1vI2HxTs

(This post was edited by brews on Feb 7, 2013, 4:22 PM)


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